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Fishtales switch for multi ball

B

Body pop

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Joined
Feb 23, 2015
Messages
212
Location
Belfast
Would anyone have or know where I could get the piece or complete switch fishtales
It's for where the shot for multiball is
I've noticed there is a c shape bit broken off and that's why ball isn't registering ?
That's what I'm wanting anyway
Thanks
 
Thanks guys that's exactly what I need :)
Sorry about the description. Lol
While your here ,the top pop out is very very weak ,is there a replacement for this or is there adjustment in the metal bit ?
It works but really struggles to get the ball out most times
 
As Dave says. Make sure the full mech isn't gunked up with grease or oil or wd40 or some other nasty stuff. Full strip down on the mech in question, new sleeve and rebuild should sort it. All mechs are self lubricating, i.e. nylon sleeve on metal plunger

After that, check coil voltage on load output
 
Thanks for he help guys
The forked leaf switch arrived today in super quick time .
Does the fork bit fit in under the black rubber plunger or over
Is there a fool proof way of setting the fork and bit it touches ,
When ball goes in it isn't quite connecting
 
Hi,

The forked switch blade fits under the ball popper 'cup', which the weight of a ball pushes down to close the contacts. I'm sure you've checked, but make sure that the metal dowel pin is properly inserted in the tip of the plunger. The tension in the forked blade serves to lift the cup, if that's satisfactory gently adjust the other, shorter blade to close the switch gap a little.
 
Nice 1 thanks,does the dowel pin push in securely then ?
I had been fiddling with it but wasn't sure .its quite awkward to get in there
 
Think I'm being a bit thick here guys
But when I have the switch fitted , the weight of the plunger makes it connect
Even when bending lower switch down , seems the plunger just sits right and the the fork doesn't hold it up
 
It should do the job. The fork only has to support the weight of the plastic cup the ball sits in, it is not supporting the weight of the plunger

Does the plastic cup move up and down the plunger freely by about 2mm ? This fork is meant to raise the ball cup about 2mm, this limit is restricted by the pin that goes through the plunger. If it is not freely moving, it might explain why the old one broke

Have you got the fork switch upside down ?
 
image.jpg
 
Thanks guys .i was starting to think it was upside down
But it is the same as the pic
The plunger looks a bit fatter in the pic ,and your switch certainly looks a lot neater and straighter than mine is at the minute
Il get another look at it tomorrow ,it's annoyed me tonight ,the nasty hum noise I had before has came back
 
I got to the bottom of the the hum noise ,it's the braided ground wire

So looking at the plunger and cup again ,I think I maybe need to replace it ,the whole black plunger move ,I don't think anything else is moving ,can these be bought new?

Also looking at the top right pop out ,and managed to knock the spring off completely .can anyone tell me how this goes back on
Thanks guys
 
Do I need a new transformer then ?
I cleaned the grounds and fixed one the was a bit frayed ,and that seemed to do the job .
That's what fixed it before also ,after about 3 months of trying different things
 
Body pop said:
So looking at the plunger and cup again ,I think I maybe need to replace it ,the whole black plunger move ,I don't think anything else is moving ,can these be bought new?

Also looking at the top right pop out ,and managed to knock the spring off completely .can anyone tell me how this goes back on
Thanks guys
Click to expand...

The ball eject mechanism at top right is much the same as the ball feeder mechanism which serves each new ball into the lane ahead of the shooter, refer to this if the manual isn't handy.
 
Just an update to thread

The fork switch wasn't wide enough for plunger and was catching going up and down ,had to file it a bit and it's ok now ,
The only strange thing is it when the ball goes in there ,sometimes it's registering it's went out of play ,instead of the reel

The pop out at top ,thanks for the tip on checking the ball eject
Looking at it. It's a different shape at the end that hits the ball ,do these wear away ? Can the be replaced or repaired ?
 
A saucer eject should have the same profile at the end of the arm as a ball feeder, AIR. The Fish Tales manual shows the part as "Eject Cam, A-7471-R"

Re. the ball popper, is the wiring correct on the new switch? The switch matrix chart shows that it's possible for a wrongly connected ball popper switch to result in a false reading of one of the out hole trough switches. The White-violet wire(s) should be on the 'dead' lug of the switch assembly (which doesn't have a blade sticking out), along with the plain end of the diode. The two blades with the actual contacts should have the banded end of the diode and the Green-yellow wire(s).
 
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