Factory or hack??

[Ashbo]

Never noticed this on my HS2 untill last night?


Happy to chuck some headers and connectors on but took me by suprise. Pinwiki shows original board as headerless bottom left so is soldering coin door connections direct to the board a practice that happened in the early 90s?

 

[Jay Walker]

Very much 'hack'. The connector bottom left, J4?, was fitted for games using a C220 or 'ECA' (Electronic Coin Acceptor) door; the additional wiring is what makes the difference between ECA and a traditional 'S 10' door with mechanical acceptors. Besides the connecting header, there'd be an 8-way option switch to enable/inhibit the channels of an electronic acceptor. I converted a few Dutch spec games to use the u.k type C220 door, but they weren't as improvised as that.

Are those two connectors twined together for the Door Closed switch?. Another sign of a poor 'upgrade'. The larger greyish connector is intentionally unused, it's for high-current flipper button switches.

 

[Ashbo]

Thanks @Jay Walker

Hmmm, door closed switch, on a quick inspection, perhaps not present....oooh...

 

[Jay Walker]

Hmmm, door closed switch, on a quick inspection, perhaps not present....oooh...

It probably went missing with the machines' original door, which would've had a flange holding it, in the top left corner of the frame. I see now that a 'Mars' door is fitted, but the factory fitted (for u.k. spec) Coin Controls ECA door didn't have that provided either. So for games fitted with the Eca door, Williams reverted to using the separate holding bracket introduced with the 'Memory Protect' Interlock for Lev. 6 games onwards, in 1979. At least this isn't a Dr. Who, that would object loudly to not seeing the door closed.

Your picture of the Interface circuit board shows the additional jumper wire at W2, also required for an electronic acceptor. The serial number label doesn't have an upper-case 'I' in front of the individual number, so it may have been a domestic spec game.

 

[Ashbo]

It probably went missing with the machines' original door, which would've had a flange holding it, in the top left corner of the frame. I see now that a 'Mars' door is fitted, but the factory fitted Coin Controls door didn't have that provided either. Williams reverted to using the separate holding bracket introduced with the 'Memory Protect' Interlock for Lev. 6 games onwards, in 1979. At least this isn't a Dr. Who, that would object loudly to not seeing the door closed.

Your picture of the Interface circuit board shows the additional jumper wire at W2, also required for an electronic acceptor. The serial number label doesn't have an upper-case 'I' in front of the individual number, so it may have been a domestic spec game.

Thanks @Jay Walker some great info there, very much appreciated. Some food for thought there. An expensive check under the hood the other night . The coin door isn't particularly attractive, but looks like I'll need to source an original coin door before I attempt to undo the hack.

Thanks again Jay, stopped me wondering.

 

[Jay Walker]

Yes, I disliked the Mars door as well. It was obvious that the machine had been converted, unlike the ones I did using a factory type C/Controls door. I couldn't replicate factory wiring, etc, but seeing the machine closed up it didn't show.

I see the Mars door as having the acceptor mounted too high up; it's okay to look at from outside, but leaves a huge gap between the acceptor and the cashbox lid. Fruit machines with Mars acceptors have (or rather, had, at the time) a separator mechanism attached below, to direct coins to different tubes, but that would be pointless for a pinball.

 

[Ashbo]

OEM Bally Williams but not quite the same I don't think...

Williams Bally coin door with loom and test buttons - Pinball Heaven

Standard OEM two slot replacement door for Williams Bally games. Includes frame/test buttons/lock&key/slam switch/lamp sockets/coin mech mounting brackets/switches/wiring harness. Does not include mechs. Search the site for “S10” to see matching styles.

www.pinball.co.uk

Uses S10 mechs not C220.

 

[Jay Walker]

The door shown by PH is what Williams called a 'DBV' (Dollar Bill Validator) door. The two inset panels can be removed to fit a note acceptor, with the pricing settings* informed which coin 'switch' it's connected to. A Dutch-spec Indy that I converted had one. I've not seen one fitted to anything earlier than a Fish Tales, and it may not have been the factory fitment in any case. A u.s. spec Getaway would probably have had a 2-slot version of the door on your Black Knight 2000, as seen in Ant-H's thread about doors.

Another difference is the mounting for the door switch(es), low down on the left side, with that flange on the door to push it/them closed. I think that placement began with the final examples of Dracula, and seems to have been done with the intention of adding an extra switch to cut off the 50 and 20V power rails with the door open. You'd need a switch bracket, placing the switch pointing sideways, to meet the flange on the door.

* the manual for Getaway doesn't list 'Dollar Bill Slot' among the pricing adjustments, so I doubt the DBV door was an option at the time. The adjustment seems to have debuted with Whitewater and Dr. Who.

 

[Ashbo]

The door shown by PH is what Williams called a 'DBV' (Dollar Bill Validator) door. The two inset panels can be removed to fit a note acceptor. A Dutch-spec Indy that I converted had one. I've not seen one fitted to anything earlier than a Fish Tales, and it may not have been the factory fitment in any case. A u.s. spec Getaway would probably have had a 2-slot version of the door on your Black Knight 2000, as seen in Ant-H's thread about doors.

Another difference is the mounting for the door switch(es), low down on the left side, with that flange on the door to push it/them closed. I think that placement began with the final examples of Dracula, and seems to have been done with the intention of having two switches, the extra one cutting off the 50 and 20V power rails with the door open. You'd need a switch bracket, placing the switch pointing sideways, to meet the flange on the door.

Thanks again Jay. Much appreciated, unless you know, it's a minefield trying to work out what the right thing would be.