What's new

Elektra trips the mains switch

HomerRamone

HomerRamone

Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 20, 2013
Messages
1,228
Location
Newcastle
Alias
HomerRamone
So.. got myself an Elektra. (I do like the 80s era Bally/Williams stuff).
And it was a good price I feel. Its complete by the looks, upper PF not terrible...

So I thought Id plug it in and see whats what.
Soon as I did tripped the mains for the sockets. Doh.
So up came the PF. Disconnected all the plugs from the power board and it doesnt trip the switches anymore \o/

Board is a little grubby, will clean it up and have ordered a kit to refurb it. Kit has a couple of BRs, and the diodes I think. Donts have the 2 white resistors - hopefully I can source them locally.. Not sure about the other parts - maybe the same.
Hopefully this will help - certainly cant hurt. Anyone suggest where to look if it doesnt ? Hopefully the transformer isnt dead.. if it is any suggestions RE a replacement ?

Hanx
 
I had this with a road kings, it was the mains filter under the tin box, could also be damp?
 
What does it trip - the MCB or the RCD?

Change mains filter first. If it does continue to trip the transformer could have slight leakage to earth (if its tripping RCD).

MCBs cut out with overload. They are like fuses.

RCDs are safety cut outs.
 
Both IIRC. Trip for the sockets and the main both went. (Ive an idea my mains panel does that when one trips though.. trips whatever circuit and the main breaker IYSWIM.. bicbw)

New mains filter ordered :)

Thanks folks.. Im sure Ill be back :)
 
As a rule of thumb always disconnect everything when you're buying a 'project' test voltages then add back one at a time. You will minimize any board damage this way. :)
 
Arv said:
As a rule of thumb always disconnect everything when you're buying a 'project' test voltages then add back one at a time. You will minimize any board damage this way. :)
Click to expand...

Yes good advice, but the magic smoke can point you to any issues:-o
 
That smoke means the fairies have escaped..
 
I could bypass the filter right ? (I could test it too I expect but ive ordered another anyway... just keen to see if it works beyond that.. :) )
 
HomerRamone said:
So up came the PF. Disconnected all the plugs from the power board and it doesnt trip the switches anymore.
Click to expand...

This says to me that it's not the filter as that should trip the switches even with the power board disconnected. With the power off add a connector back on one at a time and switch on before adding the next connector. Whichever loom trips the switches is where your problem is...
 
Will try that - will wait until she is watching Eastenders tonight ;)
Ive ordered a new filter anyway - cant hurt.
 
Silly question maybe... Have you checked all the fuses in the game are the correct rating and blow speed. Like any paperclips or tin foil in there.

I'm not familiar with the game but there may be fuses on the underside of the playfield and in the base as well as the head.
 
So - plugged in an RCD and reconnect to the mains..
Checked all the fuses etc.
connected the input connectors.. No trip.
Connected each output connector one by one... And no trip. Infact.. it now powers up.. Well after a fashion.

Couple of numbers in one of the player displays and 2 LED flashes on the MPU - which i believe is the CMOS ram ?

(The bally repair guide wants me to connect the AID2 module for diagnotics... which obviously I dont have :( )
 
Hello,

Re. the diagnostic l.e.d. - the first brief flicker is simply the diode illuminating from the 12v power, before the processor starts the self-test and shuts it off. Discounting that, the first proper flash shows the program chips are alright, and the second the Nmos Ram U 7. The next test is indeed for the Cmos Ram U 8. Not seeing a third flash shows the test of U 8 has failed.
 
Last edited:
Having fiddled around a bit last night it seems somewhat intermittent. Mostly 2 flashes, sometimes more - sometimes it doesnt seem like it will stop (possibly this is actually just one flash and its resetting itself and starting over again and again.. just guessing though)

I checked several of the test points on several of the boards and the only one that seems amiss is the GI - which is just not there at all.
I came across this online which looks to be an ok "plan" as it were on where to start etc
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index1.htm
(Unless someone can point me in the direction of a better one).

Its been several years since I had a pin I had to do anything with TBH.. last one was Centaur and that worked for the most part save for needing the mandatory cap kit in the S&T board. (Although it did used be mine many years ealier and was missing several boards).

Hard to tell if its the wiring or the boards at fault here though :(
 
Today was my last day at work until New Year - and various components I may require arrived today.
I think I know what I'm going to be doing over the festive season :)

Following that link - looks like you only need the 5 and 12v to the MPU board to get 6 of the 7 flashes. Just wish I had grabbed a connector when I ordered the parts so I can test it out of the machine without putting croc clips onto the test points (Which I dislike the idea of)
 
I use an old ATX PSU with croc clips to the test points. Tried and tested :)
 
Yeah - I have an ATX PSU... just not keen on the crocs onto the TPs. (Especially with Tp2 and Tp3 being so close!)

A connector that fits onto J4 sounds way neater/safer :)
You can get the connectors right. (I did used to have the tools for putting the wire into those connectors.. no clue where they went.. not used them for years :( )
 
True. I think i might make a connector too, be far easier. I am just a creature of habit sometimes ;)
 
Further to this, and since the MPU flashes were somewhat erratic in the machine I removed the board and setup a test bed with a PC PSU. (Caution has been thrown to the wind and I'm using croc clips on the TPs :) ).
When I fired it up I was getting only 1 LED flash. Which according to the internets is the RAM IC U7 - 6810. Since a new one arrived in the post today I would have been rude not to fit it. Swish - now I have 2 flashes.
2 flashes (according to the same internets) is the CMOS RAM U8. (It cant be the battery cos I removed it - was depressed anyway, though not leaking fortunately). Since this is what I believed to be the original issue I just happened to have said CMOS chip... popped it into the socket and.. Its the same. Pah. I knew it was going too well.

Not sure the best course of action from here. Possibly the CMOS socket is faulty (though that feels like clutching at straws) but I guess it wont hurt to try. Looking at the schematic the next candidates look to be U17, U18 and U19. (Only one of which already has a socket - doh).
Of course someone else might know better than me - I'm winging it here :)
 
Let have a pic of that board please. Close up around battery area.
 
Board seems to be in decent shape. Though the ROM chip above U7 (Flipper ROM?) doesnt look great. Could maybe do with a new one at some point.

bat.jpg
board.jpg
rear close.jpg
rear.jpg
 
Last edited:
Decided to try testing the socket earlier today - The CMOS RAM one. Seems fine - thought that would be too easy. :(
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom