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Complete Demolished Man!! - A painful and very slow shop log!

Get some old school overhead projector transparencies Kev and then you can mix your colours 'directly' onto the playfield to match them.
 
Dunno how I could go anymore detailed it's a doddle. Got no step by step pics either. If you need any help tho just gimme a shout
 
This video shows a guy touching up areas using acrylics and paintbrush
 
RudeDogg1 said:
Dunno how I could go anymore detailed it's a doddle. Got no step by step pics either. If you need any help tho just gimme a shout
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Thanks Rudi @RudeDogg1

So Can I ask you do need to fill even the chips before you paint them even though it all will be cleared afterwards, correct? And if you then have to sand it after filling I assume you do that without the masking tape on? and is there a risk of taking more paint off around the filler ??

Cheers Kev
 
I'm interested in learning this level of repair too - what I'm not clear on is some internet articles say you should only use an airbrush for this type of work.
 
newdos said:
Thanks Rudi @RudeDogg1

So Can I ask you do need to fill even the chips before you paint them even though it all will be cleared afterwards, correct? And if you then have to sand it after filling I assume you do that without the masking tape on? and is there a risk of taking more paint off around the filler ??

Cheers Kev
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If it's just a chip in the paint you can just build it up with paint and the clear coat will take care of the rest. No masking tape shouldn't take up playfield paint it's low tack so the paint would have to be very fragile to lift it.
 
astyy said:
I'm interested in learning this level of repair too - what I'm not clear on is some internet articles say you should only use an airbrush for this type of work.
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Personally it depends how skilled you are with an airbrush and the size of the area. Tiny small stuff like chips I'd do by hand
 
I've just been doing a bit of this at the moment - I've filled the chips with Easy Sand filler (http://www.amazon.co.uk/U-POL-P38-250ml-Body-Filler/dp/B000TVM8L4) then sanding back using 600-1000 grit wet and dry. I've found trying to sand with masking tape in place to be challenging to say the least - as soon as I started sanding, the tape got sanded off the playfield. Without the masking tape, then the 600 grit will dull the existing shine on the playfield, but if you are going to clear it anyway, then you should be sanding the lot back with 600-1000 grit anyway in order to create a tooth for the new clear to adhere to. Personally I've given up on using masking tape when sanding filler.
 
Thanks @JT. useful that's exactly what I thought would happen - just hoping wont cause anymore damage!!! yes I would be flatting it off anyway ready for the clear once done

Cheers Kev
 
Definitely fill them first, the paint wont be enough to level with the playfield. You could level it off with clear but you'd have to use 2k and an eye dropper first. If using rattle cans it will never level off, the clear is too thin. :)
 
PeteB said:
Definitely fill them first, the paint wont be enough to level with the playfield. You could level it off with clear but you'd have to use 2k and an eye dropper first. If using rattle cans it will never level off, the clear is too thin. :)
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Thanks Pete
 
PeteB said:
Definitely fill them first, the paint wont be enough to level with the playfield. You could level it off with clear but you'd have to use 2k and an eye dropper first. If using rattle cans it will never level off, the clear is too thin. :)
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I've just bought some stuff that can be used to repair scratches on cars. It hardens with uv light, so I've got a small hand held uv light on order too. If it works as I hope, then I'll be using it to fill small cracks around inserts, and saving the body filler for larger areas of damage. It comes in a sort of pen, but I'm going to take the top off and use a disposable pipette (like an eye dropper). I'll let you know how i get on with it. The benefits being it can be bought in small amounts and is not toxic like 2k clear is, so safer to work with.
 
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JT. said:
I've just bought some stuff that can be used to repair scratches on cars. It hardens with uv light, so I've got a small hand held uv light on order too. If it works as I hope, then I'll be using it to fill small cracks around inserts, and saving the body filler for larger areas of damage. It comes in a sort of pen, but I'm going to take the top off and use a disposable pipette (like an eye dropper). I'll let you know how i get on with it. The benefits being it can be might in small amounts and is not toxic like 2k clear is, so safer to work with.
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Yeah I have some of that and have used it for repairing cracks in clear and its brill - I just did it in sunlight to harden it !

Cheers Kev
 
That uv stuff is crap btw that was what I used on my first attempt on firepower before using rattle cans. It just chips and then u can lift it off which is exactly how I then removed it

I tried 2 different ones the stuff in a pen and expensive stuff for surfboard repairs don't waste your money
 
RudeDogg1 said:
That uv stuff is crap btw that was what I used on my first attempt on firepower before using rattle cans. It just chips and then u can lift it off which is exactly how I then removed it

I tried 2 different ones the stuff in a pen and expensive stuff for surfboard repairs don't waste your money
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But did you use that under clear @RudeDogg1 ? I'm not going to use it as a final finish, just a filler of small cracks along inserts that then get coated with paint, then 2k afterwards? @newdos yeah, it says 24-48 hours to dry in sunlight - a few watts UV lamp will do it in a few mins apparently.
 
Quick attempt a rust removal to see what its like - not too bad for first attempt!!

IMG_0942.JPG

Cheers Kev
 
replicas said:
Kev, are you sending me that ball guide for repair ???
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Will do Daz mate - its a bit of an awkward shape but will find something for it to fit into. Will polish it up a bit first as easier without the end on !

I will give you a bell when ready if that's ok

Cheers Kev
 
So I have just found out I have access to small sand blasting cabinet. Guess this will get the bloody rust off , but was wondering what sort of finish does it give on the metal - is it dull and then needs polishing as well (or tumbling)

Anyone any experience of this - do I recall you had one @PeteB ?

Cheers Kev
 
yeah blasting will dull it to a grey ish colour. You will need to get the parts Zinc Plated again.

Or chromed if ur pimp lol

Dunc
 
If you can get your hands on fine glass bead (it is white) you can get a really nice finish from a sand blaster. If it is just the regular stuff it is quite a bland, dull grey. Rubbing some old, sticky oil into it after blasting and then wiping down with a rag will protect the metal.
 
Thanks guys will try a piece in the blaster and see what it come out like

Cheers Kev
 
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