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Sold Data East Lethal Weapon 3

Marble Madness

Registered
5Years
Joined
Feb 19, 2015
Messages
476
Location
Bingley
Hi all I think it's time to see if my LW3 wants to spread its wings and go to a new home. It seems the man cave is getting a little too full and I need to make a little room so I can set up and enjoy some others.

I've owned this LW3 for over 10 years and was my starter pin back into this great obsession!! It's in great condition and has been well looked after.

It's been fully stripped down both above and below the pf. All parts removed, plastics cleaned, replaced. All metal work tumbled, cleaned and polished. New rubber kit, new flipper rebuild kit, new coil sleeves. All boards cleaned and any poor connectors changed.

There are no issues with machine and the DMD is super bright. Other than 1 broken plastic it's in tip top condition and has given many hours of fun.

Price is £950, it's a great starter sub £1000 machine. Pictures to follow
 
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What a lovely example LW3! Would have had this for myself.

Whoever bought it, get those Duracell's ripped out of that board and thrown in the bin as fast as possible. This game deserves better! :)
 
What a lovely example LW3! Would have had this for myself.

Whoever bought it, get those Duracell's ripped out of that board and thrown in the bin as fast as possible. This game deserves better! :)

Thanks @PeteB for the comments on the machine. You've got me all worried about batteries though now, there I was thinking I'm putting the best in the machines. What do you recommend and I'll swop them over in my collection.
 
He's not referring to the brand mate, more that it would be safer if they were remoted off the board, preventing damage should they leak
 
He's not referring to the brand mate, more that it would be safer if they were remoted off the board, preventing damage should they leak

Though there have been a lot of stories of dodgy/fake Duracells. I had some almost new ones start leaking recently.:eek: Luckily it was in a remote holder.

So - fit a remote holder , or at the very least only use AA Lithium batteries ..... these are way more stable and unlikely to leak. Energizer claim theirs are leakproof.

http://www.energizer.com/batteries/energizer-ultimate-lithium-batteries
 
Hi @PeteB @Sgt GrizZ @Spandangler you can be assured it will be remote battery holders fitted into the BSD, Addams & Indiana as soon as they are set up!! It might be some time for the remote holder into the Indiana though its my next project. Elbow grease is at the ready!! :D
 
Thanks @PeteB for the comments on the machine. You've got me all worried about batteries though now, there I was thinking I'm putting the best in the machines. What do you recommend and I'll swop them over in my collection.

He's not referring to the brand mate, more that it would be safer if they were remoted off the board, preventing damage should they leak

Though there have been a lot of stories of dodgy/fake Duracells. I had some almost new ones start leaking recently.:eek: Luckily it was in a remote holder.

So - fit a remote holder , or at the very least only use AA Lithium batteries ..... these are way more stable and unlikely to leak. Energizer claim theirs are leakproof.

http://www.energizer.com/batteries/energizer-ultimate-lithium-batteries

The problem with remote battery holders is that the vapours from leaking batteries will still damage the boards if left for long enough unnoticed.

Best option - NVRAM
2nd Best - Remote holder AND Lithium's
3rd Best - Lithium's in the standard holder

I've been using the Energizer Lithium's Sgt GrizZ recommended for quite a while now, not just in pins but other devices too, and they've never leaked. Lithium's do have a reputation for being leak proof.
 
I've been putting NVRAMs in all my games recently since I found a bloke in the states who sold me 10 for $60. These fit into all Stern, DE and Sega games with less effort than replacing batteries (though you do lose all high scores) as you basically pull out a socketed chip and the put this chip in its place instead. Bish Bash Bosh.

Bally Williams games don't have a socket under the RAM chip that needs replacing, so it's more effort and potential risk as you have to desolder that chip and solder in a socket in its place before you put the NVRAM in.

I wish I'd gone this route years ago - all games now converted will never ever need a battery again.
 
You don't rate memory capacitors then...? o_O

Oh yeah you mean those super caps? They're Ok. Just not quite a permanent solution as if the game hasn't been switched on for while then you loose high scores and settings every time. If you don't mind that then by all means a super cap is a good choice! :)

NVRAM is obviously set and forget. Batteries you can change with the game on so you don't lose settings.
 
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