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Data East JP rebooting

David_Vi

David_Vi

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Joined
Sep 3, 2019
Messages
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Location
Sudbury
Alias
DaveTheTrain
Today my DEJP rebooted twice in quick succession in attract mode. Solenoids fire when it reboots.

I tried a game.. it rebooted.

Then it was fine for a while. Left it on and after an hour it rebooted, twice again.

5v tp on the power board shows 4.9v
5v tp on CPU shows 4.8v.

C2 looks ok but hard to see, might be something around it?

I have a spare c2 cap so is it worth taking the board out to inspect?

I know Data Easts are a bit more enigmatic than the Bally Williams. Does anyone know what would cause reboots like this in attract mode?

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Found this while disconnecting the board, felt hot any ideas if it's a big issue?

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With a BW, I would be rattling off what to check but I swear I forget more than I have learnt about DE machines.
From what I do remember, it isn’t just about vdc but also ripples. The cap smooths those out.
 
I only have one cap for c2, so do you think its worth replacing that one or could it be the others?

Need this reliable by 29th 😳😔

Calimori said:
Any those connectors do get crispy and eventually cause issues.
Click to expand...

Any idea on what I need to replace them?
 
Swapped C2, still resetting.

Going to rebuild CN1 when the bits arrive...
Is it common for a burnt connector to cause a reset? It's the ground pin.

Any ideas what else I could check next if it's still happening?
 
Could be a failing solder joint heating up. Might be worth reflowing the solder on the connectors.
 
Fubar said:
Could be a failing solder joint heating up. Might be worth reflowing the solder on the connectors.
Click to expand...

Noted :)
I think I looked for bad solder joints last year when looking for another issue. Are they easy to spot and any specific locations?
 
David_Vi said:
Noted :)
I think I looked for bad solder joints last year when looking for another issue. Are they easy to spot and any specific locations?
Click to expand...
No, can be invisible. Reflow the solder under each pin of the connector, and add a little bit of fresh solder.

I would not trust the pin inside the connector housing that's all burned up though... Either rebuild it, or temporarily bodge something to test with.
 
Fubar said:
No, can be invisible. Reflow the solder under each pin of the connector, and add a little bit of fresh solder.

I would not trust the pin inside the connector housing that's all burned up though... Either rebuild it, or temporarily bodge something to test with.
Click to expand...

I put some pressure and moved the wires going into that connector and the game reset.
Tried to clean up the burnt pin (rubbed a bit of sandpaper on it, dunno if that does anything!)and used tweezers to squeeze the female end that goes onto the burnt pin so it's tighter.

Then wiggling it didn't cause any resets

Not sure if this is frowned upon or not😆

I've got a rebuild kit for the connector incoming👍
 
Yes definitely sounds like a faulty connection there. Rebuilding the connector should sort it, although keep in mind it's possible that both halves are damaged.

Does the 5V rail still measure 4.8V ?
 
Fubar said:
Yes definitely sounds like a faulty connection there. Rebuilding the connector should sort it, although keep in mind it's possible that both halves are damaged.

Does the 5V rail still measure 4.8V ?
Click to expand...
Since bodging the connector it's about the same no real change. 4.81v on CPU board and 4.90v on power board.
I never saw what it was when it would reset...far too quick
 
Fubar said:
You now have to play it all evening to see if it resets again. For science!
Click to expand...
If I wasn't so tired! Didn't get to sleep till early hours then builders came at 8am to start destroying the hall so we can get two more pins in on 28th ready for following day.

However last night I played one game with no Extra balls and smashed my grand champion by over 200mil. So glad it didn't reset then!
 

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David_Vi said:
Yup, I'm 95% sure it's my problem also.
I've got a rebuild kit coming but I'm dreading getting the pins off the board.😔
Click to expand...
My favourite method for removing pcb headers is to press the iron onto the pin, melting the solder and the plastic frame above so that the pin drops through. Wick up the solder from the flat pads and the header should fall away a lot easier.
 
Mike Parkins said:
My favourite method for removing pcb headers is to press the iron onto the pin, melting the solder and the plastic frame above so that the pin drops through. Wick up the solder from the flat pads and the header should fall away a lot easier.
Click to expand...

I've only got one of those cheap plastic solder suckers.
I should get some wick?
 
Yes the main variable is size. Bigger braid for bigger jobs, smaller for SMD stuff. The one you linked is fairly small, probably a tad small for this job (will take more time) but good if you ever need to clean up pads from an IC.

You can also get some from the hardware store, although they're likely to only have a coarser vintage.
 
David_Vi said:
I've only got one of those cheap plastic solder suckers.
I should get some wick?
Click to expand...
Definitely - Solder suckers have their place but wick works wonders :)
DE/Sega games have TIP122 transistors clustered together and jammed into through-holes barely big enough for them so it takes skill and patience to replace them cleanly. Always clip the old ones off and remove the legs afterwards.
 
Mike Parkins said:
Definitely - Solder suckers have their place but wick works wonders :)
DE/Sega games have TIP122 transistors clustered together and jammed into through-holes barely big enough for them so it takes skill and patience to replace them cleanly. Always clip the old ones off and remove the legs afterwards.
Click to expand...
I've only replaced maybe 2 or 3 components on boards so far and cutting the legs definitely saved frustration.
It's freeing the holes of solder so you can push the new legs through that I struggle with.

Only using a cheap iron from Amazon though.
 
David_Vi said:
I've only replaced maybe 2 or 3 components on boards so far and cutting the legs definitely saved frustration.
It's freeing the holes of solder so you can push the new legs through that I struggle with.

Only using a cheap iron from Amazon though.
Click to expand...
I use the smallest from a set of jewellers screwdrivers to clear the holes, while heating them up. I still manage to lift and break pads now and again due to my crappy eyesight :-(
 
Mike Parkins said:
I use the smallest from a set of jewellers screwdrivers to clear the holes, while heating them up. I still manage to lift and break pads now and again due to my crappy eyesight :-(
Click to expand...

Ugh and that's why board work scares me! Seems so easy to cause damag. But that's a great tip, I'll have to see if I can find some tiny screwdrivers 👍
 
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