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CV Issue

jonathan

jonathan

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10 Years
Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
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Location
Newcastle
Since this morning whenever I make the left outer loop on CV (The one that starts the video mode) the ball drops down into the subway at the back of the playfield and never comes back up again!? I can't figure out why. The ball goes into a ball search and it still stays stuck under the playfield. I can't even figure out where it's getting stuck because whenever I lift the playfield to find it I can hear the ball rolling all over the place to a different location.

I've tried testing every solenoid and they all work except the 'popper'. The popper works in the ball search though. I can't even figure out what the popper at the back of the playfield is supposed to do!?

Any clues? Where does the ball usually release back onto the playfield after a video mode?

Thanks
 
Jonathan,

The popper is the VUK on the right of the playfield (bit like the gun feeds from STTNG). It's the same place that the ball is released back to the PF after you shoot under the ring master.

Sounds odd that it doesn't work in test but does in ball search - are you sure - how can you tell?

do you get the ball back after a shot under the ring master? If so, then there could be a blockage in the subway between the top of the table and the popper. If not, then it sounds like the popper isn't working correctly (or at all).

Put the machine into switch edge test and a drop a ball into the top hole and/or into the popper from the top to check the switch.


Cheers
Geoff
 
Maybe it's not the popper I've been looking at then . I thought the popper was the solenoid dead centre at the back of the pf. Ill double check, maybe it's not working during the ball search either if that's the case
 
The solenoid dead centre at the back is for the 'up/down post' (as described in the manual) to stop the ball from making a complete loop so that it drops under the playfield.

The popper is on the right side and the associated switch is No. 36.

Cheers
 
Sounds like you've found your problem - or at least the area to look at as it seems odd (or at least unlucky) that both the switch and the popper have stopped working at the same time.
 
Ill have a closer look tonight. I assume the popper has an issue cos even if the switch was faulty the ball should still kick out on the ball search
 
Ok, the popper isn't working at all. The 1200coils on the playfield are measuring 11.5ohms. This one is measuring 0 and there are no loose wires or anything

Can coils just blow so they register zero?
 
Also, if the diode on the board has gone would that cause to coil to read zero with the machine off? I'm don't have much experience with coils
 
Ill get there, it seems each machine I get the fixes seem to get that little bit harder. I've soldered a BR in now without issue but this is going to be my first coil change. Best way to learn I suppose!
 
yep, coils can go. The winding can break, which will show up as zero resistance.
If you're lucky, it will have broke at or near the lug - so you will be able to resolder it. If you're unlucky, it will be in the middle of the coil and you'll need a replacement (it should be a 25-1000 by the way).

Would suggest that you check switch 36 whilst you're having a look underneath as a bad coil won't stop the switch from registering.

Cheers
Geoff

PS - thought I'd made a reply to this thread earlier, stating that I'm not far from you (assuming that the machine is in C-L-S), if you need a hand.
 
Hey 'RudeDogg1' ??

you never know - where are you and what's your problem - as stated earlier today, I keep loosing the 'new posts', so fairly sure I miss quite a few !

Geoff
 
I may take you up on that mate! Ill see how I get on first. Is it simply a case if snipping the wires, changing the coil and resoldering the wires again?
 
Jonathan,

yep, the good thing with CV is that all the components under the playfield (including coils) are attached to the loom by connectors - rather than being directly soldered to the loom. So you can disconnect the coil and do all the soldering on a bench.

Just to be 100% sure it's the coil - once you've disconnected it, you can check continuity on the coil i.e. 'buzz it out' - no continuity = duff coil.

Geoff
 
Aaah I hadn't noticed that. That should make it easier to solder.

What do you mean by buzz it out?

Thanks
 
I'm assuming that you have a multi meter - since you've already tested the coils resistance.

Your meter should have continuity setting - typically the right symbol below
buzz.jpg

when set to this, touching the two probes together will make your meter beep or buzz.

Set meter to the above and put a probe on each lug of the coil (after it's been disconnected). no beep/buzz means that the coil winding has broke.

Cheers
 
Update

I ordered a new coil and when I came to take the old one out noticed that one of the coil wires had snapped off the solder joint! 5 seconds and some reflowed solder later and the issue was fixed!
 
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