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Concrete Base Questions

Thanks for the offer guys. I would certainly have lots of tea ;).
The digging bit it easy, getting rid of the dirt will be the hardest part due to my winding path. If I can get someone to pump the concrete in then that will solve that issue on getting the concrete in.
Hopefully, one of these companies will get back to me.
 
Can't you do a bit of landscaping, build a rockery or something with all the excess soil?

There are companies out there that will pump it but suppose it depends on how far it needs to go, plus you may pay a premium for ready mix as what you will need is probably only a part load?

If they can't pump it or is too expensive you could always still get ready mix and hire a Muck Truck Power Barrow as long as your path is a reasonable width :)

muck truck.jpg muck truck1.jpg
 
I think that would fail on the path. There is an excess of stuff in this garden, I don't need a rockery. ;)
I have just had a quote (ex vat) of £360 for the concrete and £320 for a 45m pipe and pump. So £816 for the concrete and no back ache.
Just need to learn how to do the rest. :/
 
Muck truck looks too high and wide to get under a poorly placed tree and a sharp angle we have. Though I might rent one to check. Where could I buy one from?
 
This has moved on slowly but will hopefully have the base going down next week. On to the next question, heating for the cabin.
I was thinking of getting underfloor heating to ensure a good all round temperature with fewer cold spots but now think it might get damaged with the weight of the pins sitting on top unless I use thicker wood flooring that may cause the heating to not be as effective.
Any thoughts?
 
it might get damaged with the weight of the pins sitting on top unless I use thicker wood flooring that may cause the heating to not be as effective.
Any thoughts?

My Mrs. is an architect and she said exactly that about our garage/office/arcade. We'll be using a couple of electric heaters and ensuring the floor is well insulated.

We're getting our concrete base done in mid-late August.
 
I rent out resi dwellings so have looked into electric heating quite a lot. Budget, how long you intend to use the shed are factors too. In my experience, unless you live in a very upmarket area (South Manchester, Surrey etc ) future buyers/ renters of Houses don't pay much extra for nice touches like heated sheds, or good quality anything (taps, windows ...)

Questions

1 how often will you go into this on cold days. do you want year round heating, or just when you go in once a week ? Heat up times will be a factor for you if only occasional heating is required

2 are you cramming as many games in as you can, of will you have some "open space" on a wall

3 are you insulating it thoroughly (walls, roof, possibly even floor ?). If you will stay for years, I would use 2" of celotex, king span or equivalent on walls and ceiling. Expensive but very good

4 do remember that the easiest way to heat it, is of course just to turn all your games on if you will have a few in there

I would also consider whether you want a switch for the heating in the main house. If you are not heating it all the time, you will be able to turn on the power indoors before you go in

Underfloor heating is very tidy. But if the element fails, you have to dig the lot up so go for a big brand with decent guarantee that might actually still be in business should you need a warranty claim. It is by far the neatest and nicest way to do your shed. It takes a while to actually heat the room though so think about insulating the ground beneath the element. It relies on a relatively low heat, slowly heating the space above. So warm up time might be a factor

Good old fashioned wall mounted fan heaters are remarkably cheap, heat a space up quickly and do the job without using wall space where pins would go. They can look cheap, but in a cold outhouse do heat up quite quickly. I have one in my well insulated workshop, works really well

I actually like 3kw storage heaters if you want continuous heating (if you are already on economy 7), in well insulated spaces they work really well. And if 3kw they are a reasonable size and can be switched by individual timers. They would not be consuming power whilst you are playing. But it would need to go in a bit of open space (ie behind the door opening, below a window)
 
This garden room is going to house my pin collection so the aim was to keep it at a suitable temperature all year round to not let the pins get damaged. I plan on staying here for years and this garden room is also required to house my home working needs whilst we renovate the house.

1)I expect to go in there more than once a week but may find that the ones in there are played less often.
2) There will be some open space for wall heaters
3) Wall and floor insulation will go in, then wall insulation once electrics are done
4) But I won't be playing them during cold winter nights (02:00-06:00) which is where I am concerned about the effects of cold and damp conditions

I was looking at an electric mat that would sit below carpet or laminate. Really looking for an efficient way to maintain a reasonable temperature (~10oC), I would then use coats and an electric heater to bring up the temperature when I am playing.
 
This has moved on slowly but will hopefully have the base going down next week. On to the next question, heating for the cabin.
I was thinking of getting underfloor heating to ensure a good all round temperature with fewer cold spots but now think it might get damaged with the weight of the pins sitting on top unless I use thicker wood flooring that may cause the heating to not be as effective.
Any thoughts?

Are you putting insulation, celotex/kingspan , underneath between concrete base and floor?

Underfloor heating can be expensive so I would cost it first as that may make the decision for you. Can get different different heat range i.e. 100W, 200W, under tiles, under vinyl, under wood. You might need some other insulated board as well or the underfloor celotex/kingspan might be enough.

If doing the above then take into consideration final floor level!
 
Yes, floor insulation will be going in and I am worried that slowly I am raising the floor height to a point where I won't get machine with toppers in. I think I will get the hut built and make the decision then, rather than trying to second guess it now. It means I won't be able to buy the proposed solution from the hut builders but I think that isn't going to work due to durability.
 
I think the floor insulation should go between your shed/cabin bearers so that shouldn't raise the height but if you have to put other insulating board then that will plus just thought how will you be fixing the floor down? if u/f heating is going under the floorboards then you will have to be very careful when nailing the boards :eek:

You might be able to buy a u/f kit from the hut suppliers however it will probably cost twice as much as they will buy it in and then just mark it up!!

Think you can get u/f heating mats for under carpets but as you have mentioned don't think the manufacturers would have considered a few pinballs on top.
 
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