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Coils not working on TAF

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mike P
  • Start date Start date
M

Mike P

Hi all. Just got a TAF table and when I turn it on and try start a game it won't release a ball. I have done a solenoid test and none of them seem to be working. The guy that I got it from said it was all working before he brought it over. Checked all the fuses they seem fine. And connectors too. Any ideas? Or where to go from here? Oh and I did a factory reset too. Thanks
 
Does the machine have a cutout switch near the hinges of the coin door? I've had machines with the switch removed from its bracket, left dangling in the cab with a cable tie holding the switch closed. If the tie falls off the switch you have no power to the coils.
 
kevlar said:
Does the machine have a cutout switch near the hinges of the coin door? I've had machines with the switch removed from its bracket, left dangling in the cab with a cable tie holding the switch closed. If the tie falls off the switch you have no power to the coils.
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No the cutout switch is seated in its right place and registers when the door is open.
 
actually that's not a bad idea to check it closer Mike, i did check it as i thought of that, but i didn't try actually holding the two wires physically together to bypass that switch.

i played the game, loaded it in the car last night, drove it to Mike's this morning, we set it up, and no coils. game boots ok, switches and lights and sounds all fine. didn't have tools so couldn't confirm power at coils or that fuses all good - but it'd have to be all three fuses, and i dunno what the common source is, maybe a bridge rectifier ..... so i agree that it's probably something really simple like a wire off somewhere. removed and reseated all the connectors and ribbons. tried the old favourite turn it off and on again. even tried sneaking up on it when it wasn't looking. Mike, check that door switch, try making the switch without the switch.

if nothing before then, Martin said he could pop over on Tuesday evening? i'd be back myself but off on holiday from the morning
 
Will try bypass the switch when I get home. Do I literally just disconnect the two wires from the switch and hold them together?
 
try to fix the switch first, see if there is just a dirty contact somewhere, or a wire fallen off one side of the switch. if not fixable, just join the wires by twisting them together if you don't have a soldering iron or a spare switch to replace.
 
Hi, Mike,

Unless this is an Addams 'Gold', the switch won't be disabling the solenoid (and flashbulb) power. Regular Addams were built before WMS introduced a power cut-out on the front door, using a second switch. Even if Gold software is used in a regular Addams, the lack of a second switch makes the message about "interlock disables high power" irrelevant, and misleading.

With the machine in the solenoid test, pressing the Start button brings up some help information, such as wire colours, connector pins, fuses, transistor(s) used, etc.

The large Power/Driver circuit board has red l.e.d indicators for its power outputs. Are they all lit (except for possibly No.s 2 & 3)?. Any others not lit show a missing power feed.
 
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Hi there Jay. I will check for the red leds when I am home. It is a regular addams. Will let you know what I find.
 
Yeah it looks like its f112 lol, saw that before I read this post. So where do I get one? And do you think it will just blow again? Also it started flagging up flipper switch e.o.s errors which I assume are to do with f112.

As for the red leds: on the far left of the machine are 2 red ones, 1 on and 1 flashing if that helps. Need to look at the others closer.
 
put a cb in place of 112, if u have one,if not another fuse.disconnect sol outputs, iirc j107-109.
turn game on, if it still blows bridge rectifier 3 and,or c8 are probably gone
 
Mike,

The two l.e.d's over to the left are probably the '5v present' and 'Diagnostic' of the Cpu board, rather than the large Power/Driver board, which occupies the lower right corner. The Display Controller board in the upper right also has a 5v indicator.

The E.o.S (End Of Stroke) switches are part of the flipper assembly. Each flipper has a switch fitted, which is operated by the mechanical linkage. On older games, the switch carried the main current for the coil, and opened when the flipper was raised. Addams was Williams' first game with electronic control of the flipper coils, and the eos switches, which were now closed by the linkage, became simply an indicator to the cpu that the flipper was working. The reports may just be due to the flippers/switches not having been operating for a while.
 
Thanks for all the help guys :) Some great advice. Seeing that I am pretty new to all this, I think I will start by trying a new fuse and disconnecting J106 - J109 and see what happens.

Can I just go to any place that sells fuses and buy the right one (which is what exactly?) or do I need to get some special one that can only be used in this case? If it is special, I will send a message to @myPinballs and try get a fuse from him and report back what happens. Once again a huge thanks from a total newbie :)
 
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Mike P said:
Thanks for all the help guys :) Some great advice. Seeing that I am pretty new to all this, I think I will start by trying a new fuse and disconnecting J106 - J109 and see what happens.

Can I just go to any place that sells fuses and buy the right one (which is what exactly?) or do I need to get some special one that can only be used in this case? If it is special, I will send a message to @myPinballs and try get a fuse from him and report back what happens. Once again a huge thanks from a total newbie :)
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Hi Mike, welcome. I have all the parts you'll need. I'll send you a reply to your pm shortly. Just away this weekend for a short break but back Monday

Cheers Jim
 
Imo anyone who owns a pinball machine should have cbs for fault finding.Being as a fuse is about 50p the cbs soon pay for themselves.Heard many times people eventually fixing summat after burning thru six fuses,which has cost them £3.Funnily enough I had this exact snag recently and it was br3gone
 
Poibug said:
Imo anyone who owns a pinball machine should have cbs for fault finding.Being as a fuse is about 50p the cbs soon pay for themselves.Heard many times people eventually fixing summat after burning thru six fuses,which has cost them £3.Funnily enough I had this exact snag recently and it was br3gone
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Good points chris. Circuit breakers are essential these days. Glass fuses used to be the throw away parts but no longer! Getting more expensive each month! Got a good supply of both though so should be sorted for years to come
 
Ok after doing a bit of research I ordered some fuses.

According to manuals and other sources I need a 7amp sb 250v fuse.

After they arrive I will update you all but I have a bad feeling its going to be bridge related, so I will probably have to get from @myPinballs after all. Thanks for that.

Speak to you all soon :)
 
Good to hear you're getting stuck in Mike! I feel bad about it not working at the start as it worked before transportation but I guess it's all good pinball education and the learning curve!

I'm reading this from campsite in France
 
Hi Dan

Glad you are having fun in France :) Please do not feel bad about the machine. Just the fact I can wake up and see a pinball in my room is mental enough lol. Has not sunken in yet :)

If it is a bridge and cap I am not sure if I have the skill yet or how to change that but we will cross that bridge (haha) when we get to it.

Enjoy your holiday and thanks again dear friend :)
 
If we have to, we pay someone to come and fix it, a non working pinball is no more fun than a coffee table. I want it working as soon as possible, or there's no point. There's a guy in London I know called Martin Handzlik on 07807 350689, you could try him if no joy by midweek, my cost as it's not working yet. Once it's working at yours then I'm liable for big costs (boards etc) and the little stuff (switches, fuses, springs, rubbers) are down to you, but getting it working at the start is my responsibility.

I can't count the number of games I've had where something didn't work. It makes me realise how it died out as a popular pub coin op, if I was a landlord of a pub, I'd be fed up with the average game as they're just too much trouble.
 
cooldan said:
If we have to, we pay someone to come and fix it, a non working pinball is no more fun than a coffee table. I want it working as soon as possible, or there's no point. There's a guy in London I know called Martin Handzlik on 07807 350689, you could try him if no joy by midweek, my cost as it's not working yet. Once it's working at yours then I'm liable for big costs (boards etc) and the little stuff (switches, fuses, springs, rubbers) are down to you, but getting it working at the start is my responsibility.

I can't count the number of games I've had where something didn't work. It makes me realise how it died out as a popular pub coin op, if I was a landlord of a pub, I'd be fed up with the average game as they're just too much trouble.
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Fair enough with all that. I will see what happens and call Martin if need be.

But when they do work... its the most fun you can have with your clothes on (unless you play pinball naked haha).
 
I've got a load of them lil black resettable cb from 1 stop but how the hell do you use them they don't fit in a fuse holder?
 
Well after all the fun and games...

I now have a fully working TAF machine in my room! lol

Thanks to all for the help and suggestions :) Very kind of you guys.

Now I just need to learn the game lol

Thanks again Dan :)

Mike
 
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