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Cleaning My Playfield - Foam Cleaner & Carnuba Wax

Goodwinsplace

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Joined
Apr 7, 2021
Messages
144
Location
Barry, Wales
Alias
Goodwin
Hi, Being a relative noobie to pinball I researched the hell out of playfield cleaning and waxing.
With most of the waxes and products suggested on YouTube and other places online aren't easily available here in the UK.
So after a load of head scratching and probably leaving my playfield dirty for longer than I should due to decision paralysis I jumped in feet first and I bought all the following on Amazon in the UK:

71UiNW7+COL._AC_SY879_.jpgAnti-Static Foam Cleaner (LINK)
Love this stuff, the US guys use either Naptha or Nuvos 1 for playfield cleaning. I've seen a couple of people use this foam and it worked a treat for me. Used in the corner first to test it wasn't going to strip anything and then went for it over playfield, plastics and even ramps. Worked great and easy to clean off with little mess as it doesn't run everywhere.


91-i+cDkiFL._AC_SY879_.jpgNovus 1, 2, 3 mini bottles (LINK)
Don't worry I bought as a kit and have only used a small spot of 1 and 2 on a stubborn mark since finishing my clean up. 3 I've used on other Game consoles and it will rip a hole in your playfield if you use it with any effort. Use 1 and 2 with caution, a solution for anything that the foam cleaner can't shift.


81b49ZNO7YL._AC_SX679_.jpgPoorBoy's Natty's Carnuba Paste Wax (LINK)
This was my biggest sticking point, I couldn't for the life of me find the Carnuba waxes being suggested, not without importing them and at a high cost. I researched loads of Carnuba waxes, both more expensive and some cheaper. This paste wax is great, only need a small amount on the cloth, polish in then light buff out and it came up great after 1 coat, given it a couple of coats now and it's looking glossy.

I am still very much a pinball noob, but used a lot of cleaning products and waxes on both classic and freshly painted motorbikes so get a bit obsessed in these areas.

Welcome any thoughts or a slap on the wrist if I've suggested anything wrong, just posting what worked for me and my experience with these products if anyone else is in cleaning paralysis like I was.

Edit: Video of the cleaning below now.
 
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Cheers, I'll take a look but wanted a wax paste rather than liquid, more of a personal preference I think.

Yeah I checked, one rule I learnt early on with caring for motorbikes is that silicone can look nice but can be a nightmare down the lines, especially in the spraying world.
From the PoorBoy's website:
"All Poorboy's products are formulated to be used in or out of the sun. It contains no silicone."
 
Thanks, corrected! Can't even blame spell check that was all me.
I try and avoid novus at all costs
Yeah, the 3 pack could be dangerous. I've used it before and using it again now on a translucent Game Boy I'm working on for someone. It could do damage if not used in the right way, but equally useful if you have any stubborn marks and don't come off with foam cleaner. I had one target and one mark somehow on the traffic lights that it helped.
 
Updated the first post to include a video, nothing in detail just me cleaning the setup for 8 minutes.
 
Foam cleaner try pinball heaven ?

For foam cleaners I have found this to be a really good reasonably price brand

pro-POWER

Thanks both. Will look at these when I've used up this can.
 
I've only used the Ambersil foaming cleaner myself and liked that. 3M and automotive compounds for playfield polishing. And yeah any silicone free waxes in paste form, Gerlitz #1, it's just a bit of a pain getting it in the UK. Flame polishing plastics - NEVER - and Magic Erasers only in dire circumstances, like if you were going to be repainting anyway, otherwise don't.
 
PoorBoy's Natty's Carnuba Paste Wax (LINK)
This was my biggest sticking point, I couldn't for the life of me find the Carnuba waxes being suggested, not without importing them and at a high cost. I researched loads of Carnuba waxes, both more expensive and some cheaper. This paste wax is great, only need a small amount on the cloth, polish in then light buff out and it came up great after 1 coat, given it a couple of coats now and it's looking glossy
Bought some of this following your tip and have ro say its pretty impressive. Have only done one coat on the main playfield area of TFTC (easy to reach bits) and it's brought it up a treat 👍
 
Bought some of this following your tip and have ro say its pretty impressive. Have only done one coat on the main playfield area of TFTC (easy to reach bits) and it's brought it up a treat 👍
Awesome. Glad you like it, mine is still looking awesome since cleaning and waxing.
 
I like MER polishing wax. Where I've done a playfield restoration and clearcoated it, etc 3 or 4 coats of this, using a foam mop-head really does give a nice finish. And once the pf is built, the odd hand polish every month or so keeps it looking good.
 
I like MER polishing wax. Where I've done a playfield restoration and clearcoated it, etc 3 or 4 coats of this, using a foam mop-head really does give a nice finish. And once the pf is built, the odd hand polish every month or so keeps it looking good.
I thought about using a mop head, but as you say it would be easier on a new playfield but on a populated pf I'd be useless in trying to control it and not snap things.
Out of interest, why is silicone undesirable in a wax?
My only knowledge is from when having cars painted that sprayers say the silicone is a nightmare to remove and new paint not securing to the surface. I think it used to hold moisture too, but I've been told that modern waxes don't cause this issue if used right. Others will have more knowledge on silicone.
 
My only knowledge is from when having cars painted that sprayers say the silicone is a nightmare to remove and new paint not securing to the surface. I think it used to hold moisture too, but I've been told that modern waxes don't cause this issue if used right. Others will have more knowledge on silicone.
It's exactly this - it effectively makes it impossible to restore the playfield in the future, as paint/clear-coat won't adhere to it properly. And because silicone is inert, it can't be removed by dissolving it in anything. It's very often in spray on furniture polish, so avoid them.
 
I wouldnt say it's impossible, but certainly difficult. One good tip to note is before you are thinking of doing a restoration, you should throughly degreaser it before anything else. A proprietary de-greaser, as used in refinishing car bodyshop, will do the job. Lots of people make the mistake of sanding or rubbing ( on a car but same principle) before its degreased. The heat, particularly from machine sanding, actually helps bury contaminants into the surface which in turn rise back when paint or a clear is put on top to then spoil the surface.
 
I wouldnt say it's impossible, but certainly difficult. One good tip to note is before you are thinking of doing a restoration, you should throughly degreaser it before anything else. A proprietary de-greaser, as used in refinishing car bodyshop, will do the job. Lots of people make the mistake of sanding or rubbing ( on a car but same principle) before its degreased. The heat, particularly from machine sanding, actually helps bury contaminants into the surface which in turn rise back when paint or a clear is put on top to then spoil the surface.
IMG_20220716_153157530.jpg
Indeed, the hidden enemy 😔
IMG_20220721_074838355.jpg
 
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