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Check fuses F114 & F115, novice help!

David_Vi

David_Vi

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5Years
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Disclaimer, I've owned pins for one month and bought a multi meter only last week. I'm a complete novice. Please help!

Black Rose was on, but I wasn't playing it, but in the corner of my eye I saw 'coin door open use buttons' pop up for a second. Didn't think anything of it. I turned the pin off and when I turned it back on I get "CHECK FUSES F114 AND F115".

I checked the fuses,they're good. I try googling the issue but struggle to understand any of it and not having a multimeter meant i couldn't do anything.

Next day I turned it back on and it was fine!
I spoke to James/majestic pinball about it and his suspicion was a dying bridge rectifier (BR1).
He came over to witness the glory of Road Show but Rosie was working fine until 2300 when the coin door message appeared. Then after a reboot the fuse 114 and 115 message was back.

Luckly I had bought a replacement bridge rectifier and even though late James took the board out and swapped BR1 for the new one.

No dice, still screwed. We suspected BR2 has died also but testing it with my multimeter and comparing to BR1 it gives similar readings. Unless I'm doing it wrong.

The board is currently out of the backbox and I have another bridge rectifier arriving tomorrow as well as a new soldering iron.

Please help,
I'll attach pictures as I do any steps advised.

What I do know and what ive done so far
The led for 12v doesn't illuminate (except on the two occasions where it randomly worked again)
BR1 has been replaced.
Have tried booting with all the switches disconnected in case it was a shorting switch.
18v led is illuminated
Curiosity unplugged connector J3 behind the coin door and the game booted! But when plugging back in and out again it didn't work the second time
 
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Check J101 - make sure these pins go to BR1 (via the fuse).

Get the manual out and start checking traces to the pins.

Do you have 18v LED lit ?

As 12v has lit a couple of times I suspect its a pin or connector. Even pins/connectors that look okay can be problematic.
 
Seen this behaviour with battery corrosion damaged boards, so please post a picture of the MPU battery area just to rule that out first...
 
Pick Holder said:
Check J101 - make sure these pins go to BR1 (via the fuse).

Get the manual out and start checking traces to the pins.

Do you have 18v LED lit ?

As 12v has lit a couple of times I suspect its a pin or connector. Even pins/connectors that look okay can be problematic.
Click to expand...

On the list to check later. Once I'm home from work I'll have time to put the board back in.

Moonraker said:
Seen this behaviour with battery corrosion damaged boards, so please post a picture of the MPU battery area just to rule that out first...
Click to expand...

It's got a Rottendog and batteries are separate.

I've attached a few pictures while I've got the opportunity

There's part in the cpu board connector pins where the solder looked dodgy, I'm gonna guess that would have caused a different issue if it was shorting?
 

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Pick Holder said:
Check J101 - make sure these pins go to BR1 (via the fuse).

Get the manual out and start checking traces to the pins.

Do you have 18v LED lit ?

As 12v has lit a couple of times I suspect its a pin or connector. Even pins/connectors that look okay can be problematic.
Click to expand...

18v is lit. Quickly got board in before work 😳
 
Odd behaviour after turning it on.

The check fuses message was up and while I was trying to take a photo of the board the music came on with the volume slider on the dmd, then the Black Rose logo and then SLAM TILT... And it rebooted back into the Check fuses message


Hmm
I disconnected this board that connects to the coin door controls and the Slam Tilt mechanism and turned it on....

Game boots up! I tried to replicate it by plugging it back in, which gave the fuse message, but then when trying with it unplugged again didn't work the second time.

Could it be a clue to the issue if disconnecting that got the game booting the first time?
 

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At work looking at manual...
I'm aware switch 24 is not a real switch and there to check the 12v?
Is it a coincidence that it's on the same collumn as the coin door close and slam tilt switches in the matrix?

Could this indicate something?
 

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Try reseating connector J206 a few times


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The 12v is rectified from the 18v the capacitor next to the voltage rectifier will have leaked and damaged the tracks I suspect
 
CHRIS B PINBALLS said:
The 12v is rectified from the 18v the capacitor next to the voltage rectifier will have leaked and damaged the tracks I suspect
Click to expand...

I suppose the only way to know is to remove the capacitor? Can that be done and it put back if it's not damaged?

Would i be getting the issue intermittently if that's the case?
 
I really don't understand this.

Home from work, game boots up with and without J3.
How can this be so intermittent?

Turn on and off a couple times and the 12v led goes off and the message appears.
When the fuse message is up and the led isn't lit I get 5v on TP3.

When working I get 11 or 12v
 
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Honestly - if you do not really know what you are doing. Send it to @philpalmer at Pinball Heaven or Jim at @myPinballs

Its very unlikely it is CPU (send that board with the Power driver board and they can test that too).....

Check the slam tilt switch is not stick on - usually the one on the coin door is problematic.

Phil
 
I appreciate that option, but I think I might have found the problem?
Ok, well I followed a guide and I have 12v at at the 7812, but not at the right side of F115.
That indicates c2 leakage correct?

I can solder, so is it worth me removing C2 to confirm?
 
Judging from that second photo as well - you will want to ensure that the traces are actually still present and correct from each of the points for the cap, to the next item in the circuit (C2 to Q2 and R205). After cleaning up the area, neutralising any leftover left-over acid etc, you may need to run a jumper wire to fully sort it.

Also it may just be the photo but the solder blobs on Q2 don't look too happy. Acid leaks tend to travel. It's probably fine but I would at least clean and possibly reflow those joints just in case.

Finally, C1 looks like it's got either dirt or similar black crud on the ends of it. Possibly another leak or a victim of leaking C2? It's probably nothing but it doesn't hurt to check and verify.

Either way, this is definitely a problem area and even if it doesn't fully fix the problem, it's part of the whole thing, 100%
 
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