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BSD issues fixed

Jonwolf

Jonwolf

Registered
5Years
Joined
Apr 4, 2016
Messages
1,136
Location
Wolverhampton
I go out and my son plays BSD - "dad I think it's broken"

The following solenoids are all out - I'll look in the morning. Meanwhile if anyone has any tips it would be appreciated

uploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20160814_7c7313c89a9c775126ee134fa084683d.jpg


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Thanks chaps - problem identified. The outhole coil was fried.
The coil sleeve has melted pretty badly.
uploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20160814_5cd09eb70ceeaa61ee3656bacf4da12e.jpguploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20160814_ac90003cf56b765ec77f3e2708bf7e1d.jpg
Further check revealed what I think may have caused it - note the nicked wire
uploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20160814_c5d24c2a2146c07e8d5d8e50f82ec9e4.jpg
I need a new sleeve and coil AE-27-1200. Can't find it on pinball mania but I can find a Stern A6-26-1200 - is this a suitable replacement/the same coil ?



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Check that - the Stern coil on pinballmania doesn't have 'A6' in its item number


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Will do. As usual - thanks for the advice guys. I'm needing less of it as I go along [emoji106]


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Hi,

The critical thing with coils are the gauge (or thickness) of the wire, and the number of turns. The Stern coil is the same number of turns (1200) but a slightly heavier gauge (26 rather than 27). As such, it would draw a slightly higher current and develop slightly more power.
 
Waiting (with no patience at all) for Andy to return so I can order the coil. I forgot to mention that my son managed to knock the sound out too.
I've tested the speakers with 6V and get a crackle from the backbox speakers but nothing from the subwoofer. Is it possible for none of the speakers to work if one of them is faulty ? Fuse F104 has blown too.



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Replaced the outhole coil. Replaced fuse F104. Power up.
The outhole coils locks on. No wonder it burned out.
What could be causing the coil to lock on chaps ?


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Ok, so a bit of research tells me that it might be either a switch problem or a transistor (Q46 in this case)
I have removed F104 tested the switch which is open and then closed when activated. So switch is good.

Then I go and locate Q46...

I've never had to look closely at the power driver board before. This is what I discover:

uploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20160823_38d9563707921bef2e38b6fb4e5f5d38.jpg

Even to my untrained eye it looks a bit of a dog's dinner.

Is it repairable? (Not by me it isn't !)




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A locked on coil is often the result of a faulty transistor. These things work in pairs. A little one that in turn operates the bigger power transistor. You would normally replace both transistors and the diode. Locked on coils send massive current through these components

It could also be a problem with a microchip, the one that drives this transistor pairing. I think this could be your problem, as the transistors have been messed with already

That board has been "hacked", ie repaired in an inelegant way. Someone clumsy will have destroyed the copper track when removing transistors in the past. Hence the rough looking solder work

It may very well be repairable, and work perfectly after a repair. A replacement board could be a big outlay. Personally, I would try to repair it.

If you do not fancy attempting it, @lukewells , @pinballmania, @philpalmer and others repair boards. Just check how quickly they can do it as some offer a same day repair
 
Thanks DRD - it needs sorting either way. I'll see if I can get it repaired.


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Jonwolf said:
Ok, so a bit of research tells me that it might be either a switch problem or a transistor (Q46 in this case)
I have removed F104 tested the switch which is open and then closed when activated. So switch is good.

Then I go and locate Q46...

I've never had to look closely at the power driver board before. This is what I discover:

uploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20160823_38d9563707921bef2e38b6fb4e5f5d38.jpg

Even to my untrained eye it looks a bit of a dog's dinner.

Is it repairable? (Not by me it isn't !)




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Click to expand...

It's repairable, Q46, Q45, Q44 and Q43 need replacing most definitely as well as whichever chip controls them plus maybe more stuff. It's fixable but whatever fried went pretty hard.
 
Who should I send it to - you/Andy/Phil ? I see u r in the midlands by the way - I reside in Wolverhampton but don't hold it against me ;-)


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Jonwolf said:
Who should I send it to - you/Andy/Phil ? I see u r in the midlands by the way - I reside in Wolverhampton but don't hold it against me ;-)


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Click to expand...

I would get a price from Andy and Phil, send a pic to show the damage (include the chip area directly above). If £75 or more, I would seriously consider a new board. You would probably get £70 for that one as is.

Before you boot up again, make sure you check coil resistance of all coils to be safe but especially the trough
 
I'd guess betwen £30-£50 for me to do it. It would depend on whether the burnt part of the pcb has become conductive or not, as if it has it will need drilling and patching which takes more time. Only problem is it will take me a long time to get round to it so you are probably better sending it somewhere else

Regards

Luke
 
Andy has repaired it and it is winging its way toward me as I type. All fingers crossed after install and I flick the power switch. I think I have identified the cause (I was in the pub when my son blew the machine up) but I'll do a few check with the multimeter before I power it up.


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After a confusing time sorting the Mist feature I can complete fitting any bits I have yet to do so.
Usual problem - got a bit left over and I don't know where it goes. A clear plastic that presumably goes over a ramp? Anyone with a BSD know?uploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20160911_979528697d8a3ba54b65fcd63cbe4186.jpg


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