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BM66 Loose Ramp Alignment - Ideas?

James

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Joined
Dec 29, 2017
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5,092
Location
Norwich
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James
Hi all,

I noticed on Batman 66 the right cat ramp was triggering on its own, I tracked it down to an opto but wasn’t sure as to why.

I noticed the alignment of the opto was out, and adjusted it was okay for a while. But returned, so I have had it out.

The ramp uses tags to hold it together, and there is a lot of slop in the back and forth on it. As demonstrated in the pictures. I was considering loctite on the tags but it isn’t a thread on there is it, so don’t think that will hold.

Does this need welding? We are talking 4mm of sloppiness here.
63F181FA-32AF-4221-9080-43E0A02B5067.jpeg148BFFF9-1B47-45D3-8970-D000240BB9B8.jpeg
You can see much this has moved over time due to the opto which I’ve ordered a new one from Phil.

51BB0051-A20F-45CC-9FA6-7BDB6E150F29.jpeg
 
14BD7F01-6264-4405-8387-0907B0AAC2E6.jpeg

Was going to try this, there is no screws holding it together, it is just held together by tabs into the slots @Moonraker
 
Ah, I thought it was the opto holder moving hence the suggested locking washers, rather than the metal ramp itself.
 
Depends on the ball impact to the ramp, I would think it's quite severe so either new or weld would be the long term fix over hot glue or steelstik.
 
It’s never had a weld on it just these tabs, which may be why it needs welds both sides - perhaps that’s the solution, I imagine these weld up okay, without blowing through....

98806D2B-DF0C-456F-8BA0-5FB7BA337456.jpegB4DFB30B-07E2-47B7-A252-CC8C6B5F75F5.jpeg05B7161A-19CC-4A04-90EA-E5F1FFC596EB.jpeg
 
I'd grab a wooden coffee stirring stick and wedge a bit in behind to stop the ramp movement.
 
Filling that gap (indicated in the picture), then easy enough to pull out should the ramp need replacing (for whatever reason).

rampfix.jpeg
 
only problem is that in your pictures it looks better aligned when fully back than when fully forward.
 
only problem is that in your pictures it looks better aligned when fully back than when fully forward.

No best alignment is as you say hard forward as it were. Really appreciate the view, wondering whether to fill it flush forward than apply some of that weld around the tab for it to hold.
 
Hi James does the bolt hole in the tang not secure to something solid and could you put a longer bolt through with a nylock nut on it?
 
The screw goes nowhere, I checked the build, the slop may well be to align the opto, but the movement is cutting its path when it wiggles and damaging the opto, its obviously done this over time and now is scoring incorrectly.

Screenshot 2021-01-03 at 14.07.26.png
 
how about a thin metal plate secured with the two nuts forward of the slot and cut to align the opto and enabling later removal of ramp .
 
maybe worth someone checking their B66 maybe something missing or changed?
 
Well looking at the photos it definately had a screw in it - and Stern do not put screws in things where they are not needed. I would suggest something has come off and is maybe in the cabinet or under a plastic somewhere, or something could of been mate of cack plastic and maybe broken off.

That adjustment is to line up the opto and the hole correctly.


I can not find any other details on that part. What you also have to know is Stern diagrams are not 100% accurate in manuals.

Come on Mr Neil, take the glass off yours and shove the phone camera in.
 
@James - also checked the 'Batman TDK' manual to see if the ramps are the same - but unfortunately they are not. One thing I would say is these days STERN MANUALS ARE USELESS COMPARED WITH THE OLD ONES.

I *think* it is missing something.... But it has been nearly a year since I took BM66 apart. That one in fact..... I did have a load of scrap metal left over.....

Not even stern are that cheap just to use a screw to hold that in place - but perhaps they are....

You could always make some kind of bracket to fit undernearth to keep it better in place if stern are really that el cheapo and nasty.

A small bit of metal bent is all it needs.

Hopefully someone will have a look for you, I just went thru my photos I took when I had it in bits and there is nothing showing the undernearth.

You may have to construct something to get over your problem.
 
Don't think it was all that nice and tight from new, you can see the tab lenght and I have had it in and out (wahey), maybe this just has a touch more play. Either way I think @Colywobbles could make a flat plastic "wedge" that sits under the opto screws and holds the tabs in place.

1609706292742.pngit
 
Yes - that is what I would constuct. Plastic may not be solid and Colin can not do angled plastic.

Also miles too difficult without the part in front of you to constuct. Probably 20 mins work.

You have to check there is room for plastic underneath the assbley as well, but those optos are not screwed on that tight either - if you do the bit of plastic method you would have to get some small nuts and bots to go thru the opto sender and receiver.

100 percent I would be against welding or using any kind of putty becuase it looks plain awful.
 
Cheers @Pick Holder - I have had the opto holder off to dis-assemble everything and see what was going on clearly ish

I think the lip of the plastic at 4mm or whatever it is will be enough and it will sit flush with the base. The key will get it to sit flush to the tab as any movement is what allows the tab to start eating into the plastic.

Suprised these were not spot wleded once built at the factory. There is no sign of any weld.
 
Dont be daft - Stern wont spend money on welding if they do not have too.

It makes assembly more difficult as doing a weld like that is a skilled job. These games are put together by semi skilled labour.

Using plastic is not the way I would go - as you say - metal can cut into it, and will continue to do so until the mod you have done is not doing its job.
 
If metal is the answer how on earth do I make a metal bracket up LOL
 
Which bit to buy though.... didn't think of that.

To Google.
 
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