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Bally Dr Who cab decals?

ronnie63

ronnie63

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5Years
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Jun 8, 2015
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Anyone know of or have a pdf of the cabinet decals for Dr Who? could probably get them printed up local with the right images.

Thanks Ronnie
 
I've not had any cab art but I did get some some inner cab decals for my IM and I was really pleased with them :thumbs:
 
I asked them how they made them and materials used the reply was

inkjet on 3M oracal vinyl, laminated.

Pretty much how my local printer does stuff for me, not sure how these might last compared to silk screen, anyone clued up on this?

Thanks Ronnie
 
ronnie63 said:
I asked them how they made them and materials used the reply was

inkjet on 3M oracal vinyl, laminated.

Pretty much how my local printer does stuff for me, not sure how these might last compared to silk screen, anyone clued up on this?

Thanks Ronnie
Click to expand...

3M & Oracal are different manufacturers and brands - so seems unlikely they'll have printed on both!!
Most likely to be the Oracal, with the 3M reference being used to imply high quality....inkjet on 3M oracal vinyl, laminated. Even then all the manufacturers have different grades p, ranging from short term promotional to long-life external, so you need to know which grade of vinyl is being used.
 
Nickbs said:
3M & Oracal are different manufacturers and brands - so seems unlikely they'll have printed on both!!
Most likely to be the Oracal, with the 3M reference being used to imply high quality....inkjet on 3M oracal vinyl, laminated. Even then all the manufacturers have different grades p, ranging from short term promotional to long-life external, so you need to know which grade of vinyl is being used.
Click to expand...

Thank you for this it is very helpful, I will forward this to them and see what they say

Cheers Ronnie
 
BigIan said:
7 year polymeric
in gloss white
Click to expand...

Thanks for that, is that good? maybe exterior rated for 7 years? and the laminate on top might preserve it further? looks like ministry of pinball are selling similar and not screen printed so if they are the same I would go for the cheaper option, but I'm sure mop state uv resistant inks! but how would you know lol

Cheers Ronnie
 
ronnie63 said:
Ah thanks I never noticed but that's what he sent in the email, that link with that info I pasted above, now back and ask him which is correct lol
Click to expand...

Both links are actually wrong (!) - they link to the 'Orafol' website and products which are distributed in US/Canada etc, as opposed to the 'Oracol' products which are what they are called over here:

The correct links should be :

http://www.orafol.com/gp/europe/en/...lvent-based-product-details/items/orajet-3551

And tech details:
http://www.orafol.com/tl_files/cont...sheets/europe/en/orajet/orajet-3551-eu-en.pdf


If that film is the one being used then it should be fine - a reasonable polymeric (which is good) film with a 7 year expected external life. With lamination ( primarily too protect against abrasion + some uv protection thrown in) you should get a good life out of the graphics.

So far so good - my concern would be that due to the original 'confusion' over the 3M & 'orajet' references, followed by link to an American only product, what you are getting might not necessarily be what it says on the tin......

When all is said and done, even if it is a shorter life vinyl, as long as it is laminated, you should get a reasonable life out of the graphics when used internally on a pinball. You might just find in 5-7+ years you need to do it again if the vinyl has shrunk if glue failed ( more likely problem than ink fading)
 
ronnie63 said:
Thanks for that, is that good? maybe exterior rated for 7 years? and the laminate on top might preserve it further? looks like ministry of pinball are selling similar and not screen printed so if they are the same I would go for the cheaper option, but I'm sure mop state uv resistant inks! but how would you know lol

Cheers Ronnie
Click to expand...

All inks will be UV resistant (unless they fade as soon as they've been printed:() the real question is 'how UV resistant?'.

In context though is UV exposure going to be an issue to you in Scotland???;):D

There is a serious point there though - manufacturers give the same inks and vinyls different ratings depending on latitude -things last shorter times in the Mediterranean climate than southern UK and hence by extrapolation more again up in Scotland!

Pretty well all inks and vinyl combinations these days will give a good 3-5 year lifetime externally when laminated, so longer internally on a pinball:thumbs:
 
Brilliant, thank you very much for all that info, that really help loads, of the back of that I will go with these then, at the price it seems to be a good deal, I will of course post feedback here on the progress. and yes I doubt fade will be an issue up here lol

Thanks Ronnie
 
What's your view on the wet method of decal application @Nickbs ? It looks a lot more forgiving than the dry method in the videos I've seen on youtube, but are there disadvantages, such as the water affecting the adhesive on the decals in some way?
 
Yeah, I heard both of those things too @Paul and @RudeDogg1. But I also read the opposite from people who use the wet technique; someone even said it was the approach used in the original factories :confused: I was hoping Nick could give us some industry insight though :thumbs:
 
I looked at both on you tube, wet method always seemed to me to be not right as in things need to by dry and clean that you glue! Also I think if you took your time doing it dry it should be good. One guy said in the video there was less chance of bubbles on the bare wood as it's porous? he just dropped the decal on and it smoothed out fine by the looks of it.

Ronnie
 
JT. said:
What's your view on the wet method of decal application @Nickbs ? It looks a lot more forgiving than the dry method in the videos I've seen on youtube, but are there disadvantages, such as the water affecting the adhesive on the decals in some way?
Click to expand...

The definitive answer to that question is .....,,,,,,,,,,




.... It all depends.....:);)

The very large majority of things we do at work are applied dry, but that is fine by people doing it day in/day out who are quick & accurate (and also generally able to sort out any glitches fairly quickly using their experience). We apply wet typically when applying to very smooth surfaces (e,g. Glass, acrylic), but this would be done with a mist of water from a spray bottle (water + the tiniest drop of good quality washing up liquid).

The wet approach is good for people with limited ( or no),, experience, is more forgiving ( useful if you have an expensive set of graphics), allows you to potentially slide the graphic around to re-position or pull off to start again and is more forgiving if it all starts going wrong and the graphic starts sticking 'back to back' etc . It will take longer to adhere properly (but will do as water will soak into the cabinet or through the face of the graphic) - a hair dryer will accelerate the process.

The dry approach is quicker, 'cleaner' ( or less messy due to absence of water), gives a quicker turn around and better initial adhesion. Much less forgiving and when it has gone significantly wrong (e.g. Crease or wrong position -there is probably no way to rescue it).

Graphics application for the original machines would probably have been wet as, for the times, it was a new technique and technology for the glues and vinyls used. Vinyl technology has changed massively since then (and continues to do so), including the addition the use of application tapes to protect the vinyl ad you apply. You can now get vinyls with 'easy apply' adhesives (groove patterns built into the glue to allow air bubbles to be smoothed out as the graphic is squeegeed down), but I think it's unlikely that any of the current decal producers use that.

Hope that makes some sort of sense!:):D
 
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