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Another one in the South West

Do you have a meter. On diode setting test adjacent pairs of legs for diode characteristics. Ie blocking one way and .5-.7 volts the other.
 
No meter, although I’ve just ordered the BR (a whole £2.50) on click and collect so may just get a meter while I’m in Maplin. Is it possible for a BR to go and not have visible damage to caps or other areas of the board? From what I’ve read if F1 and F2 go then it’s almost certainly the BR bu worth checking before I start soldering.


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It's worth disconnecting CN6 and seeing if F1 and F2 blow again - if they don't then it may well be a problem elsewhere in the game and not the BR.
 
Wooooop! It’s alive :) Massive thanks to everyone for the help and comments.

Swapped out the bridge rectifier and it’s all sorted. Seems to play well but nothing to benchmark it on.

Also cleaned 20+ years of nicotine off inside of the back box while waiting for Maplin to open. Some pics:

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Nice one! Congrats. Put some magic trees inside the cabinet to get rid of the nicotine smell.
 
So celebrations were a bit short lived. A lot of the drop targets don’t drop and one of the pop bumpers isn’t firing.

At least I’ve been able to have a bit of a go though and a huge relief the dmd works perfectly.


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Yeah it’s not as bad as it looks but there are a few out on the playfield. The ones behind the translite are all ok. Just waiting on a load of the smaller size wedge bulbs to get here...


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edsr said:
Yeah it’s not as bad as it looks but there are a few out on the playfield. The ones behind the translite are all ok. Just waiting on a load of the smaller size wedge bulbs to get here...


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Click to expand...

Hopefully just blown bulbs and not other issues
 
OK so further play at lunchtime reveals the pop bumpers are all working -the more they get used the better they seem to get. I think it’d just been sat for so long that some of the switches may have corroded.

Better still I realised I’m an idiot and not all the targets are meant to drop [emoji28] But they are a bit bent out of shape in places and quite hard to trigger. Think it may just be some adjustments needed so that’s come as a massive relief.

The two upper flippers seem to have a lot of play compared to the main ones and the shark flipper is yet to make the auto shot. And it’s showing wear from rubbing against the post next to it so I think they will both need a service.


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You can adjust the timing of the shark-flipper in the menus. I think it's impossible to get it to hit the shark hole every time.
 
Thanks Paul - that’s great - I’ll have a look for that and see if I can get it better. It did make the shot last night once [emoji106]

Also noticed one half of the GI in the backbox wasn’t working. So the Baywatch translite was only lit one side. I disconnected all the bulbs on that side and then removed cables from the boards and traced the continuity back to the PPB on J5. There was a cream cable with brown stripes which seemed to break at this board. Then looked at the manual and realised that Pin 1 connects to Pin 5, via a fuse. The fuse had continuity but not pins 1 - 5 so I had the board out and there was a dry joint on Pin 1 - reflowed the soldier and fixed it! [emoji847]

So hopefully the last wiring conundrum was two cut cables near the coin door. Again referring to the manual I found that these go to a Knocker which has obviously been chopped out. Why would it be removed? Do you guys remove yours for home use if they are annoying? Or is this something I should be trying to source and replace?


(Insert jokes about Baywatch Knockers...) [emoji16]

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It's normally operators that cut the knockers off even ones that have a connector they can unplug. Always the first thing I fix
 
A lot of machine have had their knockers removed to use the coil elsewhere, especially on sited machines where the owner just wants to get the machine running asap.
 
Thanks chaps. I’m keeping my eyes out for a replacement knocker as part of my next order of bits.

In the meantime I’ve got some stuff arriving - new star posts, rubbers, balls, leg bolts, feet, etc. to replace stuff that’s cracked and broken. I’ve already sorted all the dud bulbs and electrical faults so the next step is to strip the top of the play field and give everything a good clean. I’m expecting to rebuild some of the underside parts too but that’s something for next month.

The main issue is the ramps are really corroded.

Any tips for cleaning oxidation off the wire ramps and removing rust from the spring steel ramp parts?

I’d like to avoid re-riveting where possible (as I can’t see anywhere to get the kit) so was thinking about soaking in vinegar overnight as this shouldn’t attack the plastic but should dissolve the rust. Seems pointless to clean the playfield and fit new balls and rubbers while leaving rusty parts in there.

Any tips and suggestions much appreciated!


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edsr said:
Thanks chaps. I’m keeping my eyes out for a replacement knocker as part of my next order of bits.

In the meantime I’ve got some stuff arriving - new star posts, rubbers, balls, leg bolts, feet, etc. to replace stuff that’s cracked and broken. I’ve already sorted all the dud bulbs and electrical faults so the next step is to strip the top of the play field and give everything a good clean. I’m expecting to rebuild some of the underside parts too but that’s something for next month.

The main issue is the ramps are really corroded.

Any tips for cleaning oxidation off the wire ramps and removing rust from the spring steel ramp parts?

I’d like to avoid re-riveting where possible (as I can’t see anywhere to get the kit) so was thinking about soaking in vinegar overnight as this shouldn’t attack the plastic but should dissolve the rust. Seems pointless to clean the playfield and fit new balls and rubbers while leaving rusty parts in there.

Any tips and suggestions much appreciated!


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Click to expand...
Remove the rust with wire wool and a little oil. Mask the plastic ramp so that you don’t scratch it.
Doing this will polish the ramp flap. Now you can either make it shiny and then wax it or you can buy a gun blue touch up pen. If you are going to blue it (that is what the original finish is) you will need to degrease the flaps before you start. Again, mask off the plastic area so you don’t get any gun blue on there. Wax the flaps afterwards.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Birchwood-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GYW1DKQBTBQBE18F7CQG
 
Cheers guys - really helpful.

I’ve just ordered some parts from overseas to replace some of the playfield bits and I ordered an extra set of the Flouro Orange star posts as I know a few on here (sgt griz?) have a BW and they’re quite hard to come by. PM me if anyone is interested - will arrive in a few weeks.


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I played an AF for the first time last night at Smokey Joes in Cheltenham. The GI was out so was dark as hell but even with that, now I see what all the fuss is about. So many toys. Loved it.


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Aargh!

Left the machine on while putting kids to bed etc. Came downstairs and no DMD [emoji33]

Reboot hasn’t fixed it.
F1 and F2 are OK (pulled one end out and checked continuity).
Re-seated connectors with red/black cables at both ends.
And it’s got the 5v upgrade kit (direct from power board to dmd)

Dead.

I just literally just fixed the lower playfield gate mechanism so have just enjoyed a few games with everything working and a few new modes/bonuses etc... and... just today had a delivery of star posts, rubbers, balls, novus, etc. Ready to give it a proper clean and service.

Any suggestions guys? [emoji120]



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I’m getting 4.95v at the smaller 5v connector on the ‘upper’ dmd board, with 4.87 on the back of the actual solder joints on the board (left). Then 4.91v and 17.88v across the larger 4 pin connector on the ‘lower’ dmd board (right)

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[moved thread to the Technical Questions area]


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So a massive thanks to Andy for putting up with my ramblings for an hour yesterday (and looking at my dmd).

Turns out the display driver is AOK, Yay! [emoji3]

But something on the screen itself is broken. Not Yay :(

Still investigating that and refusing to admit defeat just yet...

In the meantime Andy sorted me out with a molex connector to rebuild the GI header pins on my power board and it’s looking and working much better without the chock blocks that were in there...

Before:


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After:

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