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Advice needed for maintaining my first pin

huggers

huggers

Site Supporter
Joined
Sep 22, 2016
Messages
3,255
Location
West Dorset
Alias
Andy Hug
As some of you guys know I just got my first pinball machine. A rather nice Flintstones which I'm over the moon with. Having a great time playing it and want to know what things I should be doing to maintain it in the best possible condition. Is there any sort of check list of maintenance/service jobs I should know about to protect the play field etc. Thanks all
 
1. Batteries - change them or suffer their leaking.
2. Get battery holder if you haven't already got one.
3. Cliffy protectors (not sure of Flintstones needs them)
4. Ensure balls are in good condition (the machine, but yours too!)
5. Keep playfield clean and waxed (cue the millwax debate)
6. Ensure cabinet is not in direct sunlight to avoid cabinet fade
7. Do not ignore the test messages on start up - ask advice here
8. Same as number 7




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
And most importantly enjoy playing it but be warned it's infectious, I love this hobby
 
get a hoover kit to vac it our regularly. and that fuse point above is important. change rubbers too.
 
Thanks for all the replies. It's all a bit daunting at the moment but I'll get on top of it.
 
J.C.Rox said:
Don't fret, it's like a car, there's mechanics if you don't fancy getting your hands dirty if something goes wrong, but the day to day maintenance is easy peasy!
Click to expand...
I definitely prefer working on pins over cars. Didn't enjoy messing around with an old rusty french car in the freezing cold. Much prefer working on a pin in my own time, with a roaring fire and the tv on in the background. I do find it can give you back ache leaning over into the cabinet. I just want to line the cabinet with cushions and get inside.
 
Parts are cheap so change the rubbers, slings etc when they get bad and clear off the rubber 'debris' from the playfield when you see some. Keep clean, Novus 1 for me then guitar wax, and inspect the balls say every 3 months, replace if damaged in any way or they'll rip up your playfield. Changing coils and rebuilding flippers will come eventually but most of all.........enjoy your Pin! It's a toy after all.
There are some very knowledgeable great guys on here and they are only too happy to help. I have learnt pretty much everything I know from this forum. Have fun!
 
Fuse values is a great point.

Keep it clean.

If the game reboots during a game ask advice as it will get worse (br2 issue).

Don't try and repair a pcb unless you know how to solder.

Contact local people on here with pinballs in your area. You'll make some helpful pals.
 
Okay thanks all. Talk to me about the wax debate. I've been googling around about how best to maintain the playfield. It seems the consensus is there is no consensus. What wax (if any) and cleaner do you guys use?
 
huggers said:
Okay thanks all. Talk to me about the wax debate. I've been googling around about how best to maintain the playfield. It seems the consensus is there is no consensus. What wax (if any) and cleaner do you guys use?
Click to expand...
You won't get a straight answer to that, there's already a few threads on here that drone on and on about millwax vs gerlitz no.1 vs pledge etc. I'm not even going to give my opinion here as it will all just kick off again :D.
 
huggers said:
Okay thanks all. Talk to me about the wax debate. I've been googling around about how best to maintain the playfield. It seems the consensus is there is no consensus. What wax (if any) and cleaner do you guys use?
Click to expand...

Ever since I got into pins Novus 2 has been the go to for most people for modern playfields- use when you see ball trails starting to show.

Wax - I personally think its overkill in home environment but lots of folk do use it. Gerlitz guitar carnuba seems to be the wax of choice.

Good condition balls is the #1 factor for playfield wear.
 
kevlar said:
You won't get a straight answer to that, there's already a few threads on here that drone on and on about millwax vs gerlitz no.1 vs pledge etc. I'm not even going to give my opinion here as it will all just kick off again :D.
Click to expand...

Sounds like wax can be a serious business. Who knew?!

Sgt GrizZ said:
Ever since I got into pins Novus 2 has been the go to for most people for modern playfields- use when you see ball trails starting to show.

Wax - I personally think its overkill in home environment but lots of folk do use it. Gerlitz guitar carnuba seems to be the wax of choice.

Good condition balls is the #1 factor for playfield wear.
Click to expand...

Thanks man that's super helpful
 
I second the wax overkill on home machines. Good advice above. Buy novus 1 for cleaning and novus 2 for polishing. Both these can be used on playfield or ramps. Use novus two sparingly - just a small blob on lint free cloth. Add elbow grease and your playfield will shine. If you want to use wax to finish, use gerlitz and it will look great. Again, use sparingly.
When you are done, pour a beer and stare lovingly at your beautiful clean. And shiny playfield. Go to bed and realise that you forgot to actually play the damn thing.
Am I the only nerd here that does this ? ;-)


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Pick Holder said:
Fuse values is a great point.

Keep it clean.

If the game reboots during a game ask advice as it will get worse (br2 issue).

Don't try and repair a pcb unless you know how to solder.

Contact local people on here with pinballs in your area. You'll make some helpful pals.
Click to expand...
BR2 being the first port of call is a myth (I know all to well after replacing a few in the early years).
Reseating the power connectors on the right side of the Power Driver Board is much more successful.
 
The single job I enjoy doing the most when I get a new game is cleaning/replacing all the bulbs and the light inserts. So much so that I am always a little disappointed when I get a game and they are spotless.
Really makes a HUGE difference when they are free of crap. Makes them cooler too which is obviously a good thing.
Oh and always replace #44 bulbs with #47. 47's are marginally dimmer (you can't tell) but draw less current so put less strain on the overly stressed connectors on the boards.
 
stoptap said:
BR2 being the first port of call is a myth (I know all to well after replacing a few in the early years).
Reseating the power connectors on the right side of the Power Driver Board is much more successful.
Click to expand...

Indeed. Yep, when I first got into pins replacing BR2 was the mantra for reset issues :rolleyes:



Andy @pinballmania always used to post this advice regarding resets...........

Andy N's reset blurb ...........................

A problem with BR2 is a possibility, but is in fact rarely the cause
of most reset problems.

It is more likely that there is a bad power connector. You need to
carry out these checks first.

Measure against ground on a DC scale the voltage reading at TP2 on
the power board – the 5V test point. If this is below 4.9 V then you
have a problem on the power board, either with the LM323K regulator
or the J101 power input connector.

Look to the right hand side of the power board and locate connector
J101 which has red and blue wires. Remove and replace a couple of
times. If it is scorched then it needs replacing. Re-check the 5V and
see if any improvement.

If still less than 4.9V then replace LM323K rectifier.

If 4.9v or above, make a note of the reading and then take another
measurement on the CPU on the top end of the copper coil you can see
to the right hand edge of the CPU. If this is more than 0.04V less
than the recorded reading from TP2 then the power connector between
the two boards is at fault.

Locate the short grey ribbon connector that joins the CPU and power
driver board.

Now remove and replace the connector directly below this on the power
driver board. Do this several times, which basically removes
contaminants and improves connectivity.

This may well solve the problem, but it may re-emerge in the future
and the connector may need replacing long term.

If all the voltages are good, and you have more than 4.9V
consistently on the CPU then you are at liberty to replace BR2 and
its capacitor.
 
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