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A 'complete' newbies guide - perspective from someone who came in knowing nothing about pinball
- Thread starter s000m
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An additional note about 'The Dot' - some games are often to be seen with one (or its predecessor, the Boot-Up Alarm), simply from the switch concerned being infrequently operated. At the other extreme are examples where the dot is an indication of a 'Disabling Adjustment' being in use, i.e. a major gadget is out of action, and an owner or technician has switched on a temporary (that's the idea, anyway) software compensation for this.
And the mention above (entry No. 22) of the older high-current End-of-Stroke switches; it is correct that the opening point of the switch affects the flipper. Adjustment is made by judiciously bending the blades of the switch, as the arm on the flipper linkage that pushes open the switch has no adjustment, it always moves through the same arc. This should be tackled with care, as if the switch fails to open, the coil will burn out through overheating, with possible damage to circuit board traces. And if the switch has a capacitor connected across it (which should be secured with a cable tie), the switch shouldn't spark very much as the switch opens; if it does, with the switch possibly showing whitish burn marks, the capacitor has failed.
That's a major gadget, not Inspector Gadget, btw. Though such a problem should be inspected carefully.
And the mention above (entry No. 22) of the older high-current End-of-Stroke switches; it is correct that the opening point of the switch affects the flipper. Adjustment is made by judiciously bending the blades of the switch, as the arm on the flipper linkage that pushes open the switch has no adjustment, it always moves through the same arc. This should be tackled with care, as if the switch fails to open, the coil will burn out through overheating, with possible damage to circuit board traces. And if the switch has a capacitor connected across it (which should be secured with a cable tie), the switch shouldn't spark very much as the switch opens; if it does, with the switch possibly showing whitish burn marks, the capacitor has failed.
That's a major gadget, not Inspector Gadget, btw. Though such a problem should be inspected carefully.
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Wow thanks!
I truly appreciate that.
I'm going to update it this afternoon with the tips regarding the battery holder and foam cleaner over Novus etc.
Great stuff!
Scott
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Hi Neil,
Amended the content to recommend Foam Cleaner over Novus 2 for general maintenance.
Cheers,
Scott
Brilliant write up!! I only started collecting and repairing a few years ago now but this thread just perfectly covers everything you need to learn along the way all in one place.
Mammoth write up with loads of useful info!
Mammoth write up with loads of useful info!
Worth mentioning also that batteries should always be removed if the machine is going into storage - whether they are remote or not.
Also that Lithium batteries tend to be longer lasting than Alkaline when it comes to leakage, or that they are less corrosive, or something. I can't remember. But better for pinball machines anyway
.If a newbie is putting a machine into storage they deserve shooting,Worth mentioning also that batteries should always be removed if the machine is going into storage - whether they are remote or not.
Also that Lithium batteries tend to be longer lasting than Alkaline when it comes to leakage, or that they are less corrosive, or something. I can't remember. But better for pinball machines anyway
People coming into the hobby should be buying to play them. Not to store them and flip them!Might make a seperate guide on maintenance and storage, however I keep getting people telling me I don't know what i'm talking about.
If a newbie is putting a machine into storage they deserve shooting,
Might make a seperate guide on maintenance and storage, however I keep getting people telling me I don't know what i'm talking about.
I hope you are telling those people to get off their a$$es and write their own guide then
Well, to be fair, you might need to temporarily store a pin if you're moving house...If a newbie is putting a machine into storage they deserve shooting,
Might make a separate guide on maintenance and storage, however I keep getting people telling me I don't know what i'm talking about.
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Ah the perennial playfield cleaning wars
Hello old friend.Foam cleaner is great for cleaning but there are times when it just won’t remove stubborn ball trails . Novus 2 will - yes it is a very mild abrasive as it’s designed to remove very light scratches , but has been used and recommended by pinheads for decades . You would have to be going heavy handed ape**** mental with N2 to cause wear , or using it between every game. I have used it for decades and never once thought omg I’ve caused wear.
N2 is also great for polishing up clear ramps , polishing out hazy fine scratches. To get really worn ones crystal clear again some folk flame them - I never have , way too scary
This advice is for clear coated games - basically 90s onward- caution when cleaning polishing is strongly advised on older playfields no matter what you are using.
I just tend to ignore them. Had the same thing when I was PC building. You always get some that act up and try and put you down.
Found a bottle of millwax the other day. It removed the scratches that Novus 2 had put on my car (it IS an abrasive. try using toothpaste for ball trails) when I used it to remove a mark. Not a real pinhead until you've had a bottle of millwax explode!
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Have indeed had the Millwax experience
I never use it but Will found an old bottle which promptly exploded all over his BK2k
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If a newbie is putting a machine into storage they deserve shooting,
Might make a seperate guide on maintenance and storage, however I keep getting people telling me I don't know what i'm talking about.
Some people may decide to store rather than sell them to rotate in and out of the collection. Keeps things fresh and with the challenges of finding certain titles these days it’s perfectly understandable.
I think we're not on the same page as someone who I'm considering as new.
This would be buying your first pin here not your 2nd, 3rd or fourth. Hence why I say if we're looking at storage even in the short term I think thats better placed into a different guide or this guide would end up being some sort of compendium!
I still keep finding blobs of this stuff all over my game room like blood spatter.....Have indeed had the Millwax experience
I replaced batteries with NiMh rechargeables. No leakage, they just run down and go flat.Worth mentioning also that batteries should always be removed if the machine is going into storage - whether they are remote or not.
Also that Lithium batteries tend to be longer lasting than Alkaline when it comes to leakage, or that they are less corrosive, or something. I can't remember. But better for pinball machines anyway
I don’t have any experience with clear plastic ramps yet; but someone on here once recommended I use foil and a drop of water for removing ball trails and marks from my steel ramps. I found it worked a treat so long as you dry quickly with a microfibre cloth after.Ah the perennial playfield cleaning wars
Foam cleaner is great for cleaning but there are times when it just won’t remove stubborn ball trails . Novus 2 will - yes it is a very mild abrasive as it’s designed to remove very light scratches , but has been used and recommended by pinheads for decades . You would have to be going heavy handed ape**** mental with N2 to cause wear , or using it between every game. I have used it for decades and never once thought omg I’ve caused wear.
N2 is also great for polishing up clear ramps , polishing out hazy fine scratches. To get really worn ones crystal clear again some folk flame them - I never have , way too scary
This advice is for clear coated games - basically 90s onward- caution when cleaning polishing is strongly advised on older playfields no matter what you are using.
On another note can anyone recommend a kit for soldering- also want a multimeter. One of the coil connections on my centre drop bank has came away so will need some attention. I noted PH had a kit a while ago but can’t find it now- Amazon seems to have a few kits but not sure if they’re all cheap cr*p.
So you can buy a cheap DMM with a manual voltage metre.
Or a better one with a auto ranging volt metre.
It needs to be able to flick between AC and DC and should offer the basics like continuity tests, resistance and ideally diode tests.
Soldering iron wise you ideally want one with a temperature setting, currently I use a cheap one from Lidl which operates on battery but has no temperature setting. It does fine for basic soldering however.
Their soldering irons look decent with a digital gauge - the multimeters look a bit sketchy but seem to have these functions.Soldering Kit,Soldering Iron with Multimeter,NO-Soldering Welding Tools/Cutter/Solder Wire/Solder Iron Tip and PU Tools Bag https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07F2XNTWV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QMVEA1DC5HSGMTEME3J7 Just ordered so fingers crossed it does the trick
D
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One thing to Note - everyone came into pinball knowing nowt
Some people who have been in the hobby for a while still know now't.One thing to Note - everyone came into pinball knowing nowt
It worked- my first attempt at soldering- probably cr*p by most standards but it’s got a canny bond and is significantly better than I thought I’d manage. Thanks for your advice Scott - I’m sure this thread will be a great resource for anyone getting into the hobby
Great guide, I have been coming back to it a lot recently! One question, would you use the Autoglym Metal polish for wire forms and metal ramps?
Thanks, yes that's stuff is good. You can also use Astonish.
