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5v reset fix repair problem

Wintonmartin

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Mar 28, 2020
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Formby
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Wintonmartin
Hi all

I have replaced BR2, C5 and Q1 in attempt to fix the reset issue as the basic haven't worked.

No problem replacing BR2 I can clearly see the solder has flowed right through.

Q1 good connection and no tracks on the parts side from what I remember.

C5 was a little difficult this time round and pulled the plating through the hole. I've put a link across to. From what I can tell soldering is good (apart from the wires, I need 3 hands for a steady go at it)

I don't have 5v on the board now.

Is there anything I've missed or messed up?

TIA

20220402_094504.jpg20220402_093843.jpg
 
Did you work through Andy Pinball Manias 5v reset advice ??

I reposted it in this thread . Post #3

 
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I see you’ve got one of those replacements for lm323k.
I’ve just had a board in with similar problems, fitted with one of these. Didn’t work. Swapped out for lm323k and all good.

Check you have 12v getting to the voltage regulator, then if you do, toss Q1 and fit an Lm323k

Resets in my opinion are most often caused by poor connectors not the board components.

Andy
 
I see you’ve got one of those replacements for lm323k.
I’ve just had a board in with similar problems, fitted with one of these. Didn’t work. Swapped out for lm323k and all good.

Check you have 12v getting to the voltage regulator, then if you do, toss Q1 and fit an Lm323k

Resets in my opinion are most often caused by poor connectors not the board components.

Andy

Thanks Andy

I've not managed to find the time to get back to this yet but hoping to do so on the weekend.
Where do you get your LM323ks from?
Ebay is a minefield and want to buy trusted parts.

Thanks
 
Finally back on this one after getting a lm323K from Alan. Thanks!

I've replaced it but still no change 😫. I've tested the positive leg out on BR2 that goes the C5 then to the regulator. I'm getting 12v and also continuity through connections.

There doesn't seem to be a place I can test voltage on the parts side for the LM323k, only on the solder side.

Does anyone know what jumpers I need to have plugged in for the voltage supplies? Is it just 101? I don't have a bench set up so would need to have it in the machine and flip it so the least amount of connectors is best. Assuming I will lose ground on it as wont be screwed to the back plate so ill need to make up a fly lead?

Is there any other test I can do?

TIA
 
The board is close to going out the window.

I kept j101 plugged in. Got 12v in to the LM323k but not going out.

Pulled the LM323K and checked with a 9v battery. Dead. Checked the psu5 and 5v. Refitted. Checked with just j101 plugged in and LED came on. Tested with meter and 5v. Plugged everything back in, dead again and machine gun noise from the speakers.

Unplugged everything again and Checked with just j101 I'm and nothing. Like 0.7v and the 12v unregulated LED is off (not sure if this is through j101 but I have 12v at the in on the PSU5.
 
Old LM323k refitted and booting fine. Voltages fine. Tested difference between PDB and CPU and less than recommended 0.04v 🤷‍♂️
 
That's one of the ones I was having problems with. Completely dead when fitted. When tested with a 9v battery I was getting 5v. Even after I pulled it but when I refitted it I was getting the same issues. Very odd but all sorted now
 
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