WH20 no playfield flashers + one stuck on

[Cookizza]

Hi all,

First of all a big thanks to all the people who have give us advice, sold us parts and given word of encouragement in fixing up this Wh20.

I'm still struggling to get our playfield flashers up and running. I will try to list below the observations we've made so far.

- The whirlpool enter flasher (#23) stays on as soon as the game is powered on. Had to remove the bulb to stop.
- No playfield flashers go in test mode.
- Removing CPU ribbon from power driver, whirlpool stays on (not a CPU issue)
- All flashers have 20v - 21v when testing their prongs while grounding the DMM.
- All flashers fire when manually grounding their TIP102 chips via the braid & tab
- All TIP102 (including #23's Q28) seem to test fine (not stuck open) by doing a buzz test between legs
- Pre drivers seem ok based on my amateur DMM tests while machine is on

I am not very experienced when it comes to PCBs, but I can follow instructions well and know to follow a table / matrix. If someone is able to help us continue to diagnose this, it would be realllllly appreciated.

Now the wildcard, which may be related. Our power driver board has a repair hack on the IC's - I have no idea what it is for, perhaps shorted trace behind the chip? I was told these are for the Solenoids, but I also know flashers run on solenoid so am nervous perhaps the issues all come from this repair. I have attached pictures which hopefully show what's going on

I don't have a logic probe, but happy to use the DMM if instructed to test whatever may need testing.

Really appreciate any help here

Josh

 

[Spandangler]

I don’t know your skill set mate so forgive me. It sounds like some driver transistors maybe short.
But in all honesty, I’d take it out, send it for repair, and enjoy a stress free week.

 

[ronnie63]

Those jumper wires don't look good! What does the back of the board look like in that area?

Has it maybe been modded to fit another variation of WPC?

 

[Cookizza]

Those jumper wires don't look good! What does the back of the board look like in that area?

Has it maybe been modded to fit another variation of WPC?

We'll get the board off this weekend and see what the deal is - if there's no trace damage or burns then you might be on track...

 

[Cookizza]

I don’t know your skill set mate so forgive me. It sounds like some driver transistors maybe short.
But in all honesty, I’d take it out, send it for repair, and enjoy a stress free week.

I think replacing the TIP102s and the Q-drives would be my limit for board repair so your suggestion is quickly becoming a reality.

What I am yet to understand is if the two issues are related (flasher stuck on + rest not responding to test mode), or if the IC hack in any way affects the flashers - any help there appreciated!

I have sent a msg to pinball pleasure with these pics, see if I can get it done in a one day trip out east

 

[ronnie63]

The door interlock switch might disable the flashers and solenoids in test mode?

 

[ronnie63]

Also make sure you have the right board for WH20

WPC Driver Boards

A-12697-1 (5763-12405-00): the driver board used from Funhouse to the middle production of Twilight Zone. It has a flipper enable relay on the board. Can be used on all WPC games from Funhouse to WhoDunnit (the most versatile non-WPC95 driver board, can be used in any WPC-89 or WPC-S game). On Fliptronic games (Addams Family and later), the flipper relay is ignored by the game's software.

A-12697-3: Used starting mid-production of Twilight Zone. The flipper enable relay is not installed (since these games have Fliptronics boards, and no long need the relay). Can be used on Addams Family to WhoDunnit. Can *not* be used on Funhouse to Hurricane because of the lack of the flipper relay, which is needed in non-fliptronic games (games prior to Addams Family).

A-12697-4: One of the solenoid fuses changed rom 3amp to 5 amp, removed the "line level circuitry" (around U6). WPC Schematic Manual 16-9834.2 details these changes on page 1 of the power driver board schematics. The specific components are R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R195, R200, F201, W1, W2, LED2, and LED3. Can be used on Addams Family to WhoDunnit (interchangable with the -3 revision). Only used on a one game (just WhoDunnit so it seem

 

[Cookizza]

Also make sure you have the right board for WH20

WPC Driver Boards

A-12697-1 (5763-12405-00): the driver board used from Funhouse to the middle production of Twilight Zone. It has a flipper enable relay on the board. Can be used on all WPC games from Funhouse to WhoDunnit (the most versatile non-WPC95 driver board, can be used in any WPC-89 or WPC-S game). On Fliptronic games (Addams Family and later), the flipper relay is ignored by the game's software.

A-12697-3: Used starting mid-production of Twilight Zone. The flipper enable relay is not installed (since these games have Fliptronics boards, and no long need the relay). Can be used on Addams Family to WhoDunnit. Can *not* be used on Funhouse to Hurricane because of the lack of the flipper relay, which is needed in non-fliptronic games (games prior to Addams Family).

A-12697-4: One of the solenoid fuses changed rom 3amp to 5 amp, removed the "line level circuitry" (around U6). WPC Schematic Manual 16-9834.2 details these changes on page 1 of the power driver board schematics. The specific components are R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R195, R200, F201, W1, W2, LED2, and LED3. Can be used on Addams Family to WhoDunnit (interchangable with the -3 revision). Only used on a one game (just WhoDunnit so it seem

There's no labels on the board so I'm not too sure how to tell the difference. Any idea?

Also interlock seems fine, all connected and fires in edges test. Even with door closed flashers no flashy

 

[pinballmania]

Don’t worry about the board version. Any will work in your game.

Your problems probably lie in the previous repairs.

 

[ronnie63]

Don’t worry about the board version. Any will work in your game.

Your problems probably lie in the previous repairs.

Sound advice from Andy. curios about those jumper wires! We will see once you remove the board

 

[Cookizza]

Thanks so much for your suggestions guys, after taking the power driver off today it was clear there had been a replacement set of IC installed and two TIP102s.

They all looked a bit shabby, quick touch of a hot solder iron shined them up and now the flashers are working.

The whirlpool flasher is still stuck on, so that bulb is staying out for now - but a much more straight forward problem there I think.

Thanks again!