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Dr.Who Poorly After NLP

Chris

Chris

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Jul 21, 2011
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287
Hi all,

Well I got Dr.Who back up to the Highlands today after NLP where it did really well apart from one issue I knew about and another that I have found today setting it back up.

The 1st issue that I knew about was that I now have no sound whatsoever. It worked all Saturday until the lock in, then it died for some reason. Can anyone help in letting me know what to check as completely new to repairing, but willing to learn and have a go.

The other issue I am having is that seems to have developed is the begin test button and service credits button now don't appear to work. The two volume buttons up and down work though. Any help on either appreciated.

Cheers,

Chris


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Chris said:
Hi all,

Well I got Dr.Who back up to the Highlands today after NLP where it did really well apart from one issue I knew about and another that I have found today setting it back up.

The 1st issue that I knew about was that I now have no sound whatsoever. It worked all Saturday until the lock in, then it died for some reason. Can anyone help in letting me know what to check as completely new to repairing, but willing to learn and have a go.

The other issue I am having is that seems to have developed is the begin test button and service credits button now don't appear to work. The two volume buttons up and down work though. Any help on either appreciated.

Cheers,

Chris


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
With the power off Chris, check the connectors at the bottom of the CPU board. In fact check all the connectors are seated correctly.
 
Hi Chris what Stoptap said ,your bass speaker in the bottom of the cabinet may have a wire off those older older games have those speakers connected in series with the back box speakers so if the bass goes they all go . Hope its your cpu connectors and not your ULN2803 chip thats gone
cheers
Keith
 
Chris, the test button is another connector. I remember the problem when i had it. I thought i fixed it..
When the connector is fully pushed on, it seems to not register on one of the pins. Pulling it off very slightly sorted the problem. It may just need one of the pins bending ever so slightly? Shouldn't be a difficult fix
 
stoptap said:
With the power off Chris, check the connectors at the bottom of the CPU board. In fact check all the connectors are seated correctly.
Click to expand...

All checked and removed and reseated, with no joy I am afraid with either sound or the test switches. Mmmm


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keith b smith said:
Hi Chris what Stoptap said ,your bass speaker in the bottom of the cabinet may have a wire off those older older games have those speakers connected in series with the back box speakers so if the bass goes they all go . Hope its your cpu connectors and not your ULN2803 chip thats gone
cheers
Keith
Click to expand...

Doesn't appear to have


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darren_ross said:
Chris, the test button is another connector. I remember the problem when i had it. I thought i fixed it..
When the connector is fully pushed on, it seems to not register on one of the pins. Pulling it off very slightly sorted the problem. It may just need one of the pins bending ever so slightly? Shouldn't be a difficult fix
Click to expand...

Hi Darren, in the back box or main cab?


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I think it was in the backbox. At the bottom if I remember correctly. Remove the connectors until you find the one that controls the service buttons. Or somebody on here will know which one controls them?
 
general pins have been in a vehicle things to do.....

check tightness off all screws holding circuit boards in backbox, had this happen countless times on various games at nlp, I fixed a few

reseat all ribbon cables

check especially all connectors on the sound board

check connections all all three speakers

iirc theres a little inline one pin connector on one speaker cable

check soldered connections on the two non working switches,also bearing in mind they do just commonly fail, also check all connectors on board near tilt bob
 
darren_ross said:
I think it was in the backbox. At the bottom if I remember correctly. Remove the connectors until you find the one that controls the service buttons. Or somebody on here will know which one controls them?
Click to expand...

Thanks Darren, you were spot on and now fixed the test/enter button. It was pin 9 on J205. My first real repair, if you can call it a repair. Least I can get into tests now.

Now to try fix the sound as is a bit pants playing it with no sound. Thanks to all who have helped so far. Will report back on sound tomorrow.

Cheers guys.


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20171019_204327.jpg

When I put my Dr Who back together after redoing the decals this came in handy but also j505 and 504 are upside down so pin 2 looks like pin 3 and pin 3 looks like pin 2 if that makes sense! Hope that helps..
 
So I think I might have found my sound issue from NLP. The picture is from the sound board which I have removed. Is this repairable by me or someone else, or is it me having to buy a new board? If so where would recommend guys?uploads.tapatalk_cdn.com_20171020_9a3f97ab9d6859f4556326a63f5e4d71.jpg


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Does anyone know where I can a replacement capacitor from. I believe what I require is a 1.0µF 35V Tantalum Bead Capacitor but cannot find one like the one in the photo, only bean type.


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Chaps what would take this component out ?
Would it be the Tip on U3 or something else ?

Loved playing this at the show :)
 
These old war horses are in retirement now so being on for a good 8hrs+ could stress all manner of components out.
 
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