Any Zaccaria experts ,test mpu ,repair

[Body pop]

Hi ,is here any Zaccaria experts who could test /repair this cpu from Zaccaria spooky
A colum of switches aren’t registering .they work the 3 bumper solenoids and other targets
Solenoids work in test mode but switches aren’t
I had been working at the top flipper which was having issues ,I done this with machine on and hear it can damage something

 

[PBrookfield]

In your second photo, you have visible corrosion near the large blue capacitor. It appears to have leaked. I would bet a number of shiny pennies that it's your problem.

You will need to do circuit-level repair after you replace the large capacitor, clean off leftover acid from the board, and assess what components and traces have been damaged by the acid.

It's very fixable so don't write it off unless the game is scrap value to you in any case, but you'll need someone with the skillset required to repair acid damage. There's a few in this community as it's not an uncommon problem with all makes of pinball, though some will be hesitant about trying to repair a board that they cannot test (as Zac machines aren't very common.) Ask around, I'm sure you'll find someone that can help

I would offer my services myself for this but at the moment I already have a pile of boards I need to repair first, so I couldn't take any more on right now.

EDIT: The IC on the top of the second photo that is at a really crazy angle doesn't look too clever, either. But even if that's working fine, you almost certainly have acid damage.

 

[Arv]

Yeah best getting that battery removed.

 

[Body pop]

Thanks for eyeing it over .much appreciated
That chip is a bit strange looking that you mention .
So I need a that battery removed and the damage it’s done sorted .
Any recommendations guys ?

 

[Arv]

Thanks for eyeing it over .much appreciated
That chip is a bit strange looking that you mention .
So I need a that battery removed and the damage it’s done sorted .
Any recommendations guys ?

Recommendations:

Wire cutters
Vinegar and water solution
Multi-Meter

 

[PBrookfield]

Recommendations:

Wire cutters
Vinegar and water solution
Multi-Meter

Seconding this list. If you are very lucky then cleaning off the corrosion will be enough to restore working order. If not, you may need a soldering iron + accessories to reflow some joints that are badly corroded.

I'd also add a spare toothbrush - a plain old bog-standard nylon-bristle toothbrush - to scrub off crap from the board along with the vinegar. You can't hurt a circuit board with a toothbrush unless you're such a gorilla that you physically strike components with the plastic neck.

If once visible corrosion is sorted there are still issues, it gets more complicated. Fortunately the schematic for Spooky is online - http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/gen2/games.html - schematics are scary if you aren't used to using them, but take it one step at a time and you can work backwards from non-working switches on the schematic, and see all of the parts along the lines that are required to for switches to work. Keep it meticulous and you can solve this on your own no problem. It's how most of us started out.

The wonky chip may or may not be an issue, I would assume it is okay for now and consider that dead last - unless you can visually look at the chip and see that it is clearly disconnected on some legs.

If you've never used a soldering iron I suggest getting a feel for it on a scrap piece of electronics first. There is a knack to applying liquid metal to a circuit board, but on big through-hole components like this, anybody can learn to do it in a few hours.

 

[Arv]

Only chips i can see that might take damage are the CMOS RAM near the battery.

 

[PBrookfield]

I couldn't resist looking a bit more once I found the schematic...

You were saying the pops were out - looking at the schematic, the right and center pops go through IC12, and the left pop goes through IC11, which is the chip that looks like it was soldered on by a drunk person.

IC11 really offends me - do you know for certain that the left pop worked in the past, or has someone just said it did?

 

[Body pop]

Now you mention it ,there may of been one that wasn’t working before

 

[Body pop]

Funny about the drunk person and that chip .made me chuckle

 

[Arv]

I couldn't resist looking a bit more once I found the schematic...

You were saying the pops were out - looking at the schematic, the right and center pops go through IC12, and the left pop goes through IC11, which is the chip that looks like it was soldered on by a drunk person.

IC11 really offends me - do you know for certain that the left pop worked in the past, or has someone just said it did?

Jesus wept, didn't clock that one.

 

[stevebm1]

Ive seen a few chips soldered like that over the years,mainly on bootleg arcade boards

 

[Zaccaria Keith]

Hopefully you have got this sorted by now. I don't look in on this forum very regularly, but if you still have issues then I have the experience in repairing much worse boards than this and the means to test them afterwards.

 

[Body pop]

Thanks Keith ,it is with a member at present to clean the battery acid off
I haven’t heard anything back yet and not sure if he can test it
Id really like to get it sorted soon as possible .

 

[Zaccaria Keith]

OK. Just message me via this thread if you need any help. Generally once there is a fault on the board just cleaning the battery leakage off won't make it work if that is what has caused the fault - there will be damaged tracks or damaged chips that need to be replaced.

 

[Body pop]

Cheers Kieth much appreciated

 

[Moonraker]

Battery acid sorted, I've put a memory cap in. There was a huge amount of dry joints and cracked joints, these are now reflowed. I just need to find the time to put it in a game to test and see if it works.

 

[Zaccaria Keith]

If Peter's sorting out your CPU then you are in good hands.

 

[Moonraker]

Tested, appears to be fully working in my game and packed ready to ship.

I left it running for an hour in attract mode playing a couple of games at the start of the hour and then again at the end of the hour.

 

[Body pop]

Awesome thanks again .so much !

 

[Body pop]

There must be another problem causing these switches not to work .
Mpu is back and great job done
Has anyone ,any ideas what else it could be

 

[Zaccaria Keith]

You will need to examine and test the relevant row/column wiring to see if there is a connection back to the relevant pin on CN11 in case a wire has dropped off a switch. Also check that the diodes are not bent over and touching where they shouldn't be, or broken. On Spooky the only common wiring between all three pop bumper switches is Row 5 which goes to pin 6 of CN11, as each pop bumper switch is on a different column. You should also look for shorts to ground on any row or column. On Spooky there are some single drop targets that have switch contacts that should be operated by an insulated pole. I have seen these replaced by bare screws which then short the top switch contact to ground when the target drops - this will cause other switches to stop sensing, or may cause the machine to reboot. Compare the two photos attached to see a good and a bad contact actuator.

Go through a switch test and note down exactly which switches don't work if you need more assistance.

Regards
Keith

 

[Body pop]

Great info keith thanks ,il get a look at it today .

 

[Body pop]

There’s something weird with this switch
There’s a bit missing ?

 

[Zaccaria Keith]

Yes the moving leaf of the switch is missing - compare it with the photos I posted yesterday. Obviously the switch won't register the movement of the drop target like this, but whether it causes any other problems depends upon how the remaining parts are arranged and connected which I can't tell from these photos - need to see the back end of the switch where the wires and diode are connected.

 

[Body pop]

Mores pics

 

[Body pop]

Pics of switch

 

[Zaccaria Keith]

It looks like the switch leaf that is connected to the yellow wires has snapped off next to the insulator stack. Also the diode is missing that I would normally expect to see connected between the terminal with the red/green wires and the terminal with nothing connected to it. Also looking at the other photos you have posted, in the last photo the diode on the rollover switch looks very close to the lamp ground wire, but always hard to tell in a 2D photo.

 

[Zaccaria Keith]

Have you done a full switch test yet? If so which switches don't register?

 

[Body pop]

Yes none of the targets switches work and also the three solenoid switches