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Aligning flipper, tight nut

Hi David, have you fallen victim to the upside down / wrong way round error of thinking you’re undoing but in fact tightening, looking at the picture theres no way it should be giving you that kind of grief. Using Allen bits is better than Allen keys as long as you use them with a socket set , not a screwdriver style handle.
 
Scott had exactly the same problem and that was on a Turtles pin too. Eat some pizza to build up your strength and smack it off with Nun-Chuks maybe? 🐢🐢🐢🐢🍕🍕

Even though it’s partially stripped try some of the other attachments in that set you’ve just got - one of them will fit snuggly enough to shift it.
 
Jagspete said:
Hi David, have you fallen victim to the upside down / wrong way round error of thinking you’re undoing but in fact tightening, looking at the picture theres no way it should be giving you that kind of grief. Using Allen bits is better than Allen keys as long as you use them with a socket set , not a screwdriver style handle.
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Are you sure? I'd love this to be right as it's still snug in one direction.
If I look at the threads showing in the gap it looks I'd be turning it the correct way.

I have a screwdriver type handle. I suppose I should find a socket set, will wickes, or b&q do them? I suppose they wouldn't be imperial?

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Andydn said:
Scott had exactly the same problem and that was on a Turtles pin too. Eat some pizza to build up your strength and smack it off with Nun-Chuks maybe? 🐢🐢🐢🐢🍕🍕

Even though it’s partially stripped try some of the other attachments in that set you’ve just got - one of them will fit snuggly enough to shift it.
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I've tried they don't stay deep enough and turn out of it if that makes sense can't get enough leverage... I'm sure it could be easier if it was a bolt on the floor and gravity was assisting. But a lifted playfield and on a flipper mech that moves makes it so difficult to keep the tool in the hex bolt.


I've got some of these, are these mole grips? They're too big but can get smaller, still I imagine them just stripping the grips on the outside of the hex😳
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Jib said:
I had the same problem, put so much effort in felt like it was going to snap. I don't know what they're called (allen key handle? extender? cover?) but hubby gave me one of these to go over the allen key and now they are a lot easier
Allen+Key.jpg
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If it's too tight, or you need to put the long end in the nut (due to access) only leaving the short end to grip I slip a nut driver over the end to get extra torque and a decent handgrip - works every time.
 
Can you not get those grips on there at all? Just to give it 1/4 turn?
 
Andydn said:
Can you not get those grips on there at all? Just to give it 1/4 turn?
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They feel too big, i did try but it felt like they slipped and wouldnt lock up. I suppose they are made for bigger things
 
Just keep turning the adjustment at the end of those grips and hopefully you’ll find the sweet spot where they jam onto the nut tight enough
 
Wayne J said:
If it's too tight, or you need to put the long end in the nut (due to access) only leaving the short end to grip I slip a nut driver over the end to get extra torque and a decent handgrip - works every time.
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You've always been a gentle lover Wayne 🥰
 
Andydn said:
Damaged Screw Remover and Extractor Set by SKmoon,Easily Remove Stripped or Damaged Screws. Made from H.S.S. 4341#, The Hardness is 62-63hrc,Set of 4 Stripped Screw Removers https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01E9ZC2K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K89MH0N425DPSSC57MP3

These are good too but you’d obviously have to replace the screw
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YMMV.

I tried this set on a screw in a washing machine and they were too soft. A few turns and the screw removers were stripped and useless.
 
Pooman2084 said:
YMMV.

I tried this set on a screw in a washing machine and they were too soft. A few turns and the screw removers were stripped and useless.
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That's been my experience with cheaper screw sets like that as well. They can't provide much torque before stripping themselves. Good for screwing in to predrilled holes, but not for tightening more than finger tight.
 
Andydn said:
Damaged Screw Remover and Extractor Set by SKmoon,Easily Remove Stripped or Damaged Screws. Made from H.S.S. 4341#, The Hardness is 62-63hrc,Set of 4 Stripped Screw Removers https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01E9ZC2K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K89MH0N425DPSSC57MP3

These are good too but you’d obviously have to replace the screw
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I've already ordered a few replacement bolts... 🙄All the shipping for such cheap items.
Will pop to wickes after work and grab smaller mole grips.
Failing that I'll try borrow a dremmel😣

Could try the kit linked but seems a mixed bag
 
Just use some pliers should loosen straight away.
 
Don’t bother with smaller mole grips, they’re more useless than bigger ones and will only strip the outside. I’ve added a photo, as get impression you’re not tooled up. At top are 2 plumbers wrenches that do the job mole grips ‘ promise’ to do. The red case is the bit set that has different size Allen heads the blue case is a 1/4” socket set that has 2 bars/handles to use them on. The smaller red set is also a 1/4” socket set from Aldi which is good for small spaces, but you really need the longer handled blue set so you can apply more torque or rather more force with less effort and more control than a screwdriver handle gives you.BB32CFD0-78A8-46D7-B5C2-8B5B3EE5DA24.jpeg
 
If you’ve burred the inside of the set screw, a slightly larger Allen bit can be ‘tapped’ in using a hammer
 
David_Vi said:
Would that really work? I just imagine it slipping as there's not much to grip onto on the outside of the head.
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Yeah, just give some shnit. Neil's suggestion of shifting the threadlock with heat is a good idea too. You've a large area to grab externally, no point trying to cut a slot in it.

Defo - lefty loosey. Righty tighty.
 

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Not sure on these specifically but sometimes a small tightening action can help loosen locked nuts. Disclaimer; this has never worked for me :oops:
 
I skipped to the dremel part. A giant flat head screwdriver still won't budge it.



I have no idea how it's this tight!

I tried heating the bolt with a lighter nut wasn't sure if I needed to do it for an extended period of time and if it wears off?
 

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Last resort, could I use a thin dremel attachment and cut the thread in-between the pawl? Maybe once theres no tension it might unscrew and I have a replacement bolt or two coming tomorrow.

If I screw the mech up I can just get new kit😕
 
Is it all the same piece of metal that the bolt screws into?. I.E the bit with the spring attached is also round the back, with what looks like a plastic actuator for the EoS switch. If there's any leeway for that to move when the bolt's turned, maybe tightening the bolt and levering the plate against it could crack it. Or hold the bolt to unscrew with the screwdriver and tap the plate with a hammer. I'd take that circuit board out of the danger zone first.

I thought I saw that the slot in the flipper linkage is open horizontally 'end on'. If it is, cutting off the bolt head would allow the plate and the lower half of the bolt to slide out. I was about to ask about that. Though actually, I'm still not sure, and posted hurriedly. If it isn't, I think you may be worse off.
 
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Jay Walker said:
Is it all the same piece of metal that the bolt screws into?. I.E the bit with the spring attached is also round the back, with what looks like a plastic actuator for the EoS switch. If there's any leeway for that to move when the bolt's turned, maybe tightening the bolt and levering the plate against it could crack it. Or hold the bolt with the screwdriver and tap the plate with a hammer. I'd take that circuit board out of the danger zone first.

I thought I saw that the slot in the flipper linkage is open 'end on'. If it is, cutting off the bolt head would allow the plate and the lower half of the bolt to slide out. I was about to ask about that. Though actually, I'm still not sure, and posted hurriedly. if it isn't, I think you may be worse off.
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Does this help?
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Either way, I've ordered a new linkage that includes the plastic part and part the spring attaches to. So i think I'll end up just using the dremel to cut the thread and release the flipper bat.
The I can get that mech out and just replace it🙄😳
 
That puts paid to sliding it all out, then. But if you're in the mood for destroying something, is there enough room to cut the bolt just where it goes into the plate? The bolt would drop out*, and the plate would be free, albeit with the threaded hole blocked.

I can't understand why there's such a gap there. Everything must be badly twisted. It's as if the flipper shaft is too big, and distorting the bars of the pawl, enough to lock the bolt.

* assuming it isn't threaded into the pawl - not much would surprise me with this one.
 
Those mole grips you posted a pic of should easily do the trick, they should adjust all the way closed, to be able to grip firmly onto the bolt head. If it slips off, another trick you can try with mole grips is to use a slightly damp rag or cloth (towel or flannel is good) between the metal of the grips and the metal of the bolt. Once you get a really good grip (and with somebody else supporting the raised playfield), give it a sharp yank.

I really don’t like these ‘modern’ flipper bat mechs, i prefer the old style with a pawl and two grub screws, these ones are mechanically bending the metal receiver as the bolt is tightened, and as it bends it puts uneven force on the bolt thread, and that’s why they get stuck
 
It's out. I cut it.
😂

And surprisingly, the mech is all in good condition, all I'd need is a new bolt.
As soon as I cut the thread in the middle, it loosened like nothing else.. I guess it was all the tension.

Shame to have to go to desperate measures but at least I have new bolts coming tomorrow and a new plunger mech if needed! 20211118_154115.jpg
 
Sorry David, but most of those tools look pretty poor TBH. I once fitted a kitchen for a mate, that by his own confession he can’t do DIY, I took my tools he was in awe, as I didn’t have screwdrivers that have UJ’s built in the shaft and a one tool fits all, there just junk, with decent equipment in his hands he was just fine.

Another tip for tight screws when there’s a concern for rounding heads, is coarse valve grinding paste, gets a good bit of friction on your tool 😳 also a T bar is good as it helps stop off loading the Allen key/socket.

Very pleased your sorted though 👍
 
Managed to use a screw and nut to secure the flipper until the new bolts arrive... Just so I could try this.

View attachment 20211118_163932.mp4

No drain!
Worth it, although I had to bulk out my pinball heaven order to make postage worth it for a couple hex bolts 🙄🙄🙄
And ordered a whole new crank assembly just incase the dremel screwed up the existing one or I couldn't get the thread out.

Oh well that's pinball?
 
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