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In Progress Zaccaria Space Shuttle

what a transformation first class job

Thanks for the kind words :D

Thanks for the reminder that this has gone further back in the queue of projects... :rolleyes: Since then finished nitro ground shaker and added to SWL line up, commissioned FG and TFTC into the SWL line up, a couple of Haunted House playfield swaps, work in progress with a BSD and now Firepower. I shall return to Space Shuttle in a month or two..!
 
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Fitted the new ROMs last week, unfortunately to no avail so the game got folded again. Last Sunday I did some homework on the MPU circuit diagram to identify which chips to check on next, which I'll do when I get the game set-up next. Going to be a detailed oscilloscope job trying to trace the fault.
Hi Peter, When you get back onto this check that you have +12V on pin 19 and -5V on pin 21 of the EPROMS. I've just seen my third CPU board with these missing for the same reason. There are two plated through holes both at the bottom right corner of the rectangular silk screen markings for the original battery, above Pin 24 of IC5, which seem to be the first bit that gets affected by any battery corrosion and these plated through holes go open circuit cutting off these supplies to the ROMs.
 
Hi Peter, When you get back onto this check that you have +12V on pin 19 and -5V on pin 21 of the EPROMS. I've just seen my third CPU board with these missing for the same reason. There are two plated through holes both at the bottom right corner of the rectangular silk screen markings for the original battery, above Pin 24 of IC5, which seem to be the first bit that gets affected by any battery corrosion and these plated through holes go open circuit cutting off these supplies to the ROMs.

Will do, thanks Keith! :clap:
 
Hi,

Nice work! I've been doing the same to my Zac Space shuttle, so nice to see another restore project. Mine is pretty much up and running now, mostly tweaks and cosmetics left.

Is yours not starting up because of the settings not being programmed? If so, I have one of the 1B1149 Programming boards that attach to one of the connectors (CN9, I think) and provides some default settings via DIP switches. If you think this would help, I can send this on to you.

Kind regards,
Wayne.
 
Yes, it may well be and I think that it would be a very big help (if only to rule out what is and isn't working). It is most kind of you to offer and I would like to accept, PM sent. :clap:
 
So after a few other projects and repairs have been completed it was time to re-visit this.

@waynej4 very kindly sent his programming board and I didn't have a clue on how to use it! :eek: Any how I was passing @Zaccaria Keith at the weekend and was able to leave the board with him to test in his working game. I got a lot more than I bargained for (as did Keith)...

"Your MPU board put up a real fight but I'm pleased to say that is is all working now and will be available for you to collect...

It was completely unresponsive other than putting out data to the displays. So I did a bench test on it and had to replace the decoder and chip select ICs 11, 6 and 9 to get the basic test to run, even though there was a lot of activity on the address and data lines. It then ran the first part of the test OK but failed on the memory test which required replacing the 2101 RAM. It then passed all of Leon's tests including all input and outputs, but still wouldn't respond in the game which is most unusual. In the game I found that the IO read and write enable for the switch matrix were never being pulsed. I replaced IC 28 without success and after a lot more scope work and comparisons with a good board concluded that the interrupt generator chip must be faulty. I replaced IC39 and it all sprang into life and can be programmed fine and retains the program OK."

So I popped the MPU back in the game and found that I only had about 3 or 4 solenoids working and I was not able to start a game (due in part to no ball being kicked out). Then it was time to call it a day and go in search of Dinner.
 
A day later and a quick return to see just what was what. With Keith having proved that the MPU was working in his machine meant that I could narrow the issues fairly quickly.

First I reflowed the ribbon cable header pins from the on the driver board from the MPU. I then hit the test buttons to see what I had. I found that I had gained a lot of solenoids, although not all of them (more later).

Lighting tests:

View attachment 20210504_182009.mp4
 
So working through the solenoid tests we have:

Solenoids0001.png

Looks like IC9 is either not working or the chip select to it is not working. Also explains why I don't have any sounds at the moment as I believe actions 21 to 24 control the sound.
 
Header with ribbon cable:

20210504_182245.jpg

A closer look at the missing transistors:

20210504_182241.jpg

Parts are on order...
 
I have the info, thanks. Keith programmed it so I don't have to worry about it any longer. :cool:
If your backbox is missing the labels you can print off the attached which are scruffy enough to look original!
 

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Pack holes with wood glue (no nails) and bits of wood then let dry...

View attachment 116771

I ought to mention that it took the best part of 2.5 hours to remove the three sheared threads, taking it steady so I didn't do too much damage.

Then on to gluing the new number 5 insert in to place (no picture).

Then on to sorting out the shooter rod and it's very mushroomed end...

View attachment 116772

First cut away the old rubber...

View attachment 116773

Put a metal filings catch tray underneath...

View attachment 116774

Then reach for the trusty wizard and grind off the mushroom like this (wizard inactive for this photo)... Always use eye protection when using power tools...!

View attachment 116775

Then remove cir-clip... Always cover with hand to stop them flying off in to the distance never to be seen again...

View attachment 116776

Store safely and easy to find again...

View attachment 116777

I then cleaned it up only to find that it was about 3 or 4mm shorter than it should be due to the mushroom so replaced it with a used stern shooter rod. I normally like to replace the spring with a nice shiny new one but I'm totally out of those.

Also clean the holder while the shooter rod is out... No shooter sleeve here.

View attachment 116778
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Finished item...

View attachment 116780
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Just come across this thread



I’ve been experimenting with one of these for removing sheared screws:

https://www.rockler.com/screw-extractor



Seems to work really well, although I’ve not got to using it on a “live” playfield yet



I tried it first using a bench drill – great but can only get 4” in to the side of the playfield:


1620467209013.png






Then I did one just by hand – OK, but with the danger of slipping and scratching the playfield. I’ve ordered a guide for my next go.



Once the hole is drilled, I fill it with 5/16” dowel – it fits so snugly there is probably not even any need for glue. These are the two holes after filling:

1620467158135.png
1620467085741.png

Would certainly save a lot of time over your 2.5 hours!
 
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