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WWF Royal Rumble Lower Playfield Lights out?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Matt Fenton
  • Start date Start date
M

Matt Fenton

Hi Guys,

Apologies if the post is a duplicate etc. I did have a search but thought I might get a response quicker.

I noticed tonight that my lower playfield lights seem to be out? I have added photos before and after.

I have had a look at the fuses and they seem okay, the boards seem okay (no different from when I bought it) the connectors do not seem burnt like I have seen in serious cases.

I have traced the connectors from the PSB to the PPB and can't see anything obvious yet.

Where should I look specifically? certain connector (J5?)

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks guys
 

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The top left one on the PPB is a common fail point.

Did you give it a wiggle with power on? any sign of lights?
Could be cracked solder joint. Pull boards and reflow.

The power board is the other common issue, can't remember the connector number....on the right side....yellow / yellow white wires iirc?? Check manual ;-)



Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
 
What Grizz said. Also check the "Z" connector which is part of the loom to the back box gi
 
No i haven't checked the fuses with a meter yet but I will check continuity tomorrow.

I did give the top right connector on the PPB a wiggle with the power on and all it did was knock half the back box lights out then they came on again?

I will pull the boards tomorrow and have a look

Thanks guys much appreciated.
 
Definitely take a close look at the Power board - CN8. I've had GI problems with both that and PPB J5 where it access the fuses. These connectors are a bit crusty after 20+ years of getting hot.
 
Thanks guys I will report my findings soon!

haha oooooooooooh yeaaahh!!
 
I checked all the fuses and they are okay, couple of holders will need doing as they are weaker than others but are still working.
However on taking the PSB and PPB out the PSB is not in a good state (Images attached) the PPB seems okay.
Someone has repaired the board previously with the link wire and soldering on the back, and some components have got hot. (CN9 wires were slightly brown when i got it as was D14 next to fuse 2)
Is the board worth repairing or do I get a replacement board like the XPIN? I don't know what people's opinions are on having replacement boards in.
Thanks guys 20161107_115921.jpg 20161107_120009.jpg
 
I think you may have found your problem in that first photo - D14 - looks like it took way too much current through it (it ought to be replaced) and I suspect that the connection to/from it could well be history... Check continuity from Pin5 on CN3 to D14 and the other side of D14 to F1 (where the tracks on the PCB go).
 
I have continuity between F1 and D14 and I have continuity between D14 and pin 5 on CN7? not CN3 if thats correct
 
Matt Fenton said:
I have continuity between F1 and D14 and I have continuity between D14 and pin 5 on CN7? not CN3 if thats correct
Click to expand...
That's correct according to the PS board schematic.

The 6.3VAC for all GI leaves the PS at CN8 - pins 1-4 and 6-9 are bridged so you have power as most GI is working. I've had several GI problems on my similar Hook, one was the connector at CN8 - crusty IDC and a wire loose (now re-headered and molex'd). Second, where the GI then enters/leaves the PPB at J5 - this is a simple circuit to access the fuses and leave again through the same connector. In my case a track was broken but it could be the connector, header, fuse / clips, tracks etc in that area. Don't trust the fuse clips they may look like they're holding the fuse but not conducting properly - sometimes you can push the fuse in and the circuit will close.

Btw, do you have a manual for this game the online scan version isn't good. I think you're looking at the white/violet or white/yellow GI strand - check on one of the bulbs out to narrow it down.

Bang-aaaaaa-raaaannnnnnnggggggggggg as you're a Hook owner too :thumbs:

Ps. this isn't to say that there aren't other problems too lurking in your photos above.
 
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