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WTD: Williams System 11 Power interconnect PCB

G

Guddler

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Aug 16, 2011
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100
How hard is it to find one of these whose J6 area isn't chargrilled? (G.I. Input) and how much would I need to pay?



I did a hack to keep mine going 5 or 6 years ago now but it needs attention again. I can probably get it going again hut it's getting quite grim now.



Part number 5768-12332-00



Thanks,

Martin.
 
It's from my BK2K, so system 11b. I've pulled it out and it's on the bench so I'll have another go at keeping it going for now and just keep my eyes open. When i have the money I'm basically going to have to go LED whether I like it or not to save this kind of stuff. And to prevent the inserts getting any worse too.



Just out of curiosity, why would Marco be listing Williams games as Bally? Did I miss something?
 
Around that time 1987/1988 ( forget exact date ) Williams took over Bally pinball. So after that they were one and the same - even though the Bally name was still used on some pins thru the 90s - think they alternated the Bally and Williams name or something.
 
Ah ok. Just don't remember seeing a few of them referred to as Bally before. Maybe I'm imaging it though
smile-1.png
 
I've had the same problem with my system 11 earthshaker I did manage to get a second hand board but it didn't work that well, I know marco sell the boards but are a tad expensive also maybe bay area amusements might do them ,I just re jiged the gi and took it off that board altogether by screwing a 4 way fuse holder to back box inside and reterminating the cables,so the actual board you got stays in machine to work rest of stuff and the GI is totally separate
 
This thread has reminded me that I need to sort out the interconnect board GI connector on my BK2K too, before it gets too bad. I had some connectors put aside for to repair it, but have used them on other machines. Better order some more and get it fixed. Putting some LEDs in the GI to reduce the current through the connector sounds like a good idea.
 
Well, I had a go at this yesterday and managed to do a better job this time round of repairing the couple of tracks that were broken. I also bridged the pairs of inputs that are commonned on the GI input connector so that should help things slightly. Also replaced all the connectors that had anything to do with the GI (again).



So, that's all the GI working again - half the insert GI were off. It still seemed very dim though. On further inspection, I have 12v bulbs in the GI when they should be 6.3v. I don't remember whether I did this intentionally, by mistake or whether it was already like it but whatever the reason, it's wrong so when money permits, I'll give LEDs a go.



All in all, for now it looks like I don't need a new PCB then.
 
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