World Poker Tour lamp issue?

[Martin.D]

Trying to track down problem with 1 card lamp remaining on when any other lamp uses same wire.
See image below, Queen of Hearts lamp (34) remains on when any lamp on RED-GRN chain used.
Also same problem with Seven of Spades (59) on RED-GRY chain, King of Hearts (52) on RED-VIO chain and Queen of Spades (44) on RED-BLU chain.
Test diode with multimeter and ok.
Anyone else with same problem and is there a way to fix it?

 

[lukewells]

A single stuck on lamp is definitely a diode issue. If the diode is OK then it is possibly wired wrong. The diode is there so that the lamp only lights when it's specific column is active, without it, the lamp can light when every other column is active and current will flow back though it.

 

[Martin.D]

A single stuck on lamp is definitely a diode issue. If the diode is OK then it is possibly wired wrong. The diode is there so that the lamp only lights when it's specific column is active, without it, the lamp can light when every other column is active and current will flow back though it.

This is what's got me confused. Checked lamps on both sides of effected lamp and looks wired the same and tested same.
Guess it's out with the solder iron, test and replace.

 

[Martin.D]

As expected replacing or rewiring diode on Queen of Hearts lamp (34) did not sort problem. All card lamps look to be wired same way (See picture) and behave fine apart from 34.
Could this be fault on power board?
As I said odd issue and not something I have see before. Nearest fault I can think of was 1 lamp on my Bad Cats seafood wheel light not working and ended up being resistors replacement needed.

 

[lukewells]

The lamp numbers you quoted in your top post don't match the lamps in the switch matrix in the manual. You have Lamp column 2 or 3 stuck on (depending one whether the lamp number or description is right)

Either the drive is shorted on, on the driver board, or there is a short on the lamp matrix itself that is providing a current path to column 2 or 3 all the time.

The easiest way to check for sure is if you have a scope, you can disconnect J13, you should see a 1 in 8 pulse on each pin.

If you don't have a scope, you can go old-school and either get a lamp connected to 2 bits of wire, or an led with about a 3k resistor in series, and with both J12 and J13 disconnected from the driver board, touch the lamp/led wires on J13 pin 8 (anode) and J12 pin 5 (cathode) for Queen of Hearts, and then to a single lamp test like you did in the first post, for any single lamp on that row, such as Eject Lock (38)

If it is still lighting, with nothing else connected to J12 and J13, then it is a shorted on drive

 

[Martin.D]

Yes my mistake Queen of Hearts lamp (34), have updated thread.
Thanks will check J13 old school as have lamp socket with probes for type of job.

 

[Martin.D]

Ok results.
Single lamp test Queen of Hearts lamp, wires connected to J13 pin 8 (anode) and J12 pin 5 (cathode). Flashing.
Moving J12 wire to other pins with pin 12 also flashing.
Moving J13 wire to other pins with pin 10 on but not flashing.

Single lamp test Ten of spades lamp, wires connected to J13 pin 7 (anode) and J12 pin 5 (cathode). Flashing.
Moving J12 wire to other pins with pin 12 also flashing.
Moving J13 wire to other pins with pin 10 on but not flashing.

 

[Martin.D]

FIXED.
Problem related to missing diode on newly installed tournament button. Install instructions seem to miss pointing out you need diode on tournament button lamp AND switch.
Funny this topic help me fix on Cue Ball Wizard.

 

[SteadyP]

Hope you’re still enjoying it

 

[Martin.D]

Hope you’re still enjoying it

Just great game just added Serum colour DMD.