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Wizard of Oz Problem

R

robertlucas1970

Played for about a hour today and all was good, then some of the LED lighting starting to flicker white, then it went off, the only bit of lighting left is top middle, everything else is out.
JJP is all new to me, so have no idea where to start.
What I have done is check all fuses that I can see and made sure all plugs under the playfield and the ones into the main board are all seated OK
I will start reading the manual now, but im sure some of you will have experience with this pin and point me in the right direction where to start looking.
Many Thanks

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The early models had problems with the light boards.some 5v ones were failing.they changed them for 7.5v i think it was. If you lift the playfield it will have on the boards which ones they are.
 
Thanks for the info, If I miss out board 10,13 and whatever is in the castle then all the other boards will work.
I have tried a working input on boards 10 and 13 which are just single LED and they will not work, connected in between these 2 boards is the castle, I have no idea if that is one board or a couple, not even looked at that yet.
I have checked boards 10 and 13 many times with a working input from another board and even tried a different 5v power line, so I can only guess that one board can take out another ?
I will keep going with it..............
 
More than likley just one board out but then cannot pass the data on to the next one under the castle there is one big board and one small gi board
Just follow the numbers to find the failed board bare in mind that the numbers don't always follow sequence the input starts at 29 I think and goes across to one also I think the castle jumps from 12 to 31-31 then back to 14
You are aware you can put the manual up on the display and the numbers and boards are all on there
Once you have found the non working board link it out and remove it in the software
 
Thanks for the input Chris, I am going to order some new boards including the ones in the castle.
I am pretty sure they are faulty because one of the letters is lit as soon as you turn the pin on, so even with no input data the driver is still firing that one LED, it does not fade or change colour, If I unplug the input to this W8 board the LED is still lit with just the power cable, so something has gone wrong there.
The 2 single GI boards are faulty for sure, if I swap location with lit units they dont work
As long as I miss out the castle and the 2 small boards everything else in the chain will fire up.
My boards are 5v, I see there is now a 7.5v, is the 7.5v a updated version that will work on my 5v supply or do I have to replace with 5v ones do you know ?
Phil has 7.5v in stock so going to get some and a few extra for spare, but the castle will have to be ordered, I have not taken the castle one out yet, but going to order a new one as I dont see how anything can drive that LED other than a faulty driver IC.
Many Thanks
 
The smaller single ones are the same, just a single multi colour LED

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Marvello said:
Confused :hmm:. Aren't the LED boards all different shapes and sizes, or are some of the smaller ones all the same?
Click to expand...
ok the board robert is showing is a gi board there is only one board for this but the bracket can be mounted 3 ways left right and center depending on where it fits in the machine
they are also single boards controled by another led board and these are different

looking at the wireing robert if you link 12-13 this will by pass the castle turn off those 2 boards in the software that you have by passed and the game will run as normal without the 2 faulty boards
you will have to fit a 5v board
 
I have to link 12 to 14 and then the rest are good, I can only think the fault on the castle took the other 2 out, or it could be possible that one of the others could of gone before as number 12 lets data flow to the next one in the chain but no life in the LED.
Have asked Phil to get the boards and will even keep a couple for spare, my only concern is the 100's of posts on pinside about this very problem with the early 5v boards.
I can only upgrade to the 7v ones if I change them all and the power supply which I expect would not be cost effective.


Many Thanks
 
I checked that and it's good, I bet 9 times out if 10 it's the LED driver and I see they can be ordered for next to nothing from China.
I have ordered new boards but will have a play about with these.
I know they are only 30 quid each but I bet the bigger ones are a lot more.
 
I have new boards on the way from Phil, so though I would play about with the old ones, first one repaired.

 
Another board repaired, this one pretty much everything had failed, I expect the driver IC will be the first thing to go, but D101 was short circuit which then takes out F1, the LED lost the Red and as with all of them the driver IC which is a pain, it is so small it has to be done under the scope.
I also need a flat board to fit the stencil over the pads to get the solder paste on, so was just as quick to strip the board and then replace everything with new.


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Thats the same lights I had left on, very common these problems with the light boards from what I have read, they changed them to 7.5v which made no difference, but from what I understand all the new boards have buffers now to solve this problem.
What is not so good is JJP wants $650 to supply a set of new boards with the buffers for your old ones.
I would of had a lot more faith in JJP if they just said we will swap them FOC , I talked with a guy there who even told me that the early boards without buffers will go out sooner or later.
 
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