Twilight Zone Rebooting mid game
- Thread starter DRD
- Start date
Anything consistent when the reboots happen?
Could be the typical WPC 5v dropping issue (had CFTBL reboot on me during multiball until @lukewells fixed it for me)
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index2.htm#reset
Could be the typical WPC 5v dropping issue (had CFTBL reboot on me during multiball until @lukewells fixed it for me)
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wpc/index2.htm#reset
In the first instance try reseating ribbon and power cables to MPU and driver board, to remove oxidisation of the connectors.
If resets keep occurring then they will be a possible symptom of something on it's way out and you're best to consult this list:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets
If resets keep occurring then they will be a possible symptom of something on it's way out and you're best to consult this list:
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Game_resets
you have a low 5V i expect - try measuring it at the 5V test point on the main driver board
try reseating the connectors first between all boards. if that doesn't do it then you mau need to replace the common components that ofteh drag the voltage down - a bridge rectifier and a capacitor - do a quick search on pinwiki and it will come up as this is the commonest problem in pinball along with battery leakage.
try reseating the connectors first between all boards. if that doesn't do it then you mau need to replace the common components that ofteh drag the voltage down - a bridge rectifier and a capacitor - do a quick search on pinwiki and it will come up as this is the commonest problem in pinball along with battery leakage.
Thank you for the advice. I feared this might be a multiple possible causes scenario
Easy to understand why the operators dumped pinballs when stuff like this happens
Had this tz for months, without this issue. At short notice, agreed to step in two days ago and host a league meet next weekend. Then this happens
Oh well.
Easy to understand why the operators dumped pinballs when stuff like this happens
Had this tz for months, without this issue. At short notice, agreed to step in two days ago and host a league meet next weekend. Then this happens
Oh well.
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- Jul 21, 2011
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J114 J114 J114 J114
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2011
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But normally that's a waste of money. 95% of resets are cured by replacing J114. Costs £1 for a replacement IDC connector plus 5 mins time. You need an idc insertion tool or you can go crimp style.
I had a double flipper reset issue on Fish Tales. Reseating all connectors sorted it.
The 5v voltage drop on my tz was 0.12 between the touch point and the MPU. Pin wiki says 0.1v is ok, Andy suggested 0.04 was right.
By removing the z connector and soldering the wires directly together (pinwiki suggestion) and cleaning pins, pushing the wires back in the connectors with the right tool, I have got down to a 0.07v drop
I have pressed the flippers like a demented fool, played a dozen games and could not trigger a reboot. If I get another reboot, I will go further with the repair but I try to avoid removing boards as the potential for unsettling something/ breaking a connection somewhere is always there
It made me wonder how my other games were. Addams as ever has been a fantastically reliable game over 15 years. Registering a 0.01 drop. Shadow 0.04
By removing the z connector and soldering the wires directly together (pinwiki suggestion) and cleaning pins, pushing the wires back in the connectors with the right tool, I have got down to a 0.07v drop
I have pressed the flippers like a demented fool, played a dozen games and could not trigger a reboot. If I get another reboot, I will go further with the repair but I try to avoid removing boards as the potential for unsettling something/ breaking a connection somewhere is always there
It made me wonder how my other games were. Addams as ever has been a fantastically reliable game over 15 years. Registering a 0.01 drop. Shadow 0.04
With their parent asleep upstairs, I had access to the perfect product testers.
Thrashing away relentlessly and crazily firing all the flippers at once like demented Somme machine gunners. Never tiring. Showing no remorse.
Looks like tz is fixed.
Thrashing away relentlessly and crazily firing all the flippers at once like demented Somme machine gunners. Never tiring. Showing no remorse.
Looks like tz is fixed.
Personally i think neutral white or cool white LEDs look good behind both of these translates. You do lose a few dimming effects though.
Thanks for the suggestion. I had led in tz when I bought it. But I found them too powerful. They "spotted" behind the translite so it looked a bit wrong.
You see how the led spot on my shadow (alternative translite) they are also quite "spotted" as opposed to casting a wider pool of light. But it looks ok in my opinion on the shadow, as I suspect the designer did it with led in mind
You see how the led spot on my shadow (alternative translite) they are also quite "spotted" as opposed to casting a wider pool of light. But it looks ok in my opinion on the shadow, as I suspect the designer did it with led in mind
Even the frosted types?
