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Sttng problem

octamus

Registered
10 Years
Joined
Oct 20, 2013
Messages
409
Location
Bristol
I have just been playing and noticed the dot come up on the dmd when I put it into test it said it was the borg entry which is a opto it says the switch is open when you block the beam it does not close would this be the transmitter or receiver that has gone thanks
 
Might be worth giving (both sides of) the opto a bit of a clean first, then if still no worky try using your mobile phone camera to see if you can see the glow of the opto transmitter. Compare it with a known working opto transmitter and you should see a faint purple blue glow that only certain cameras can pick up.

That would help identify whether its the transmitter or receiver.
 
and don't use an iphone, as for some reason it doesn't work at detecting optos

oh, and check there's no wires off the optos on either side either
 
Right when I shine my camera into the transmitter on the camera screen it's a bright white light does that mean it's ok
 
It's more a blue/purple glow but if some sorest of light is being omitted then it's working,us it the white plastic opto? I think the reciever is black plastic
 
It's more a blue/purple glow but if some sorest of light is being omitted then it's working,us it the white plastic opto? I think the reciever is black plastic
I was getting the light from the white plastic one is there a way to test the reciever
 
the transmitter (the white one) should have a purple glow on a digital camera screen - but not on an iphone, some filter kills it
the reciever (the black one) can be triggered by a torch, but i cant remember if this also applies to non-incandescent-bulb torches. presumably.

did you clean them with a cotton bud?
 
As Dan says, the old type torch should be able to test the transmitter. Machine in test mode, then shine the torch to see the switch closes.
Wires can come off, they also fail. I have a thread somewhere where I rebuild the receivers on my IJ and bought the parts from eBay but I can't find it right now.
 
Torches and cameras are only a very rough unreliable guide. Better to use a multimeter. Measure across the transmitter (Tx) first. 0v = broken wire, 12v = broken emitter, ~0.7v = Tx working.

If Tx working then test Rx. 0v = broken wiring. ~ 1v rising to 12v when blocked = Rx ok. If all ok and no response in switch test, them wiring fault between opto board and CPU.
 
Might sound daft but have you checked continuity at the white 2 or 3 pin molex connectors for the optos? All 3 pairs of optos on my shadow wasn't working and it ended up being all 3 pairs of connectors
 
Torches and cameras are only a very rough unreliable guide. Better to use a multimeter. Measure across the transmitter (Tx) first. 0v = broken wire, 12v = broken emitter, ~0.7v = Tx working.

If Tx working then test Rx. 0v = broken wiring. ~ 1v rising to 12v when blocked = Rx ok. If all ok and no response in switch test, them wiring fault between opto board and CPU.

Like always...Precise and to the point....... Please can we have a GOTO fault finding section on the forum for this.
 
It's definitely the reciever that has gone I'm having some bad luck with pins at the mo I was playing my whitewater earlier I was in the middle of a game then it sort of crashed then went back to the start of game only happened once anyone now what this could be thanks
 
One of the switches on the ball through is not working so it says pinball missing could that cause it
 
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