Street Fighter 2

[Trozze]

I bought 2 pinball's in need of repair, a Street Fighter 2 and a World Cup Soccer 94.




The playfield is really dirty, but there are no scratches and will be nice after cleaning it!



I notice that some parts has been changed, and some missing. I will be removing all the PCBs and check them before turning the machine on. So far so good!




This TDA2040 has seen better days



A solder wizard has been working on this driver board before, can't see anything replaced.. nothing to see here

I tried my best to clean it up, atleast better than before!





Same with the DMD PCB, alot of ripped traces and parts missing. The 3 Transistors are missing heat sinks to, all 3 are broken, all pins shorted.



I decided to remove almost everything to check all traces and replace with brand new parts! (All ripped traces are done by previous owners)



Next up was checking all the fuses.. oh god.. Most replaced fuses are rated at 15-25a where 3a and 3/8a should be!!!!
And what is going on with the blue wire??



Ohh wtf is this ****.. Hmm.. I think those 25A fuses had something todo with this disaster. Toasty!! I removed the blue and the old wire, used my dremel to remove the old parts in the connector and made a better jumper wire.

Went on replacing the the incorrect/broken fuses and turned the machine on..




DISASTER!!

The capacitor on the CPU board exploded, ALL ICs on the CPU burst open with magic smoke, same with the driver board!!!



This is the aftermath, might not look to bad, but there was alot of smoke .

So i started checking what caused this.. And i found the problem... The previous owner had plugged two cables in the wrong place---WARNING TO NEW OWNERS OF STREET FIGHTER 2!!!!---

The 6 pin cable you see on the picture above should be plugged in to the driver board!! The correct one should NOT have a green wire!!

This caused 20V and 5V on the GND rail!!

I had to desolder EVERY IC on the CPU board and the Driver board.




I forgot to take a picture when all ICs were removed, these are the last pictures of it i took before populating them with new parts.
It's still not working, but it seems like the U8 PAL on the DMD board is broken, a replacement part will arrive later today.

To be continued!!!

 

[Monkeyboypaul]

i heard that bang 1,500 miles away!

 

[stumblor]

Cheese and Rice Trozze... you're a braver man than me !!

 

[Trozze]

I started checking if any fuses blew while waiting for the U8 PAL.

The first one i started checking was the fuse for the rotating flipper motor.
It was almost impossible to turn the motor manually so I removed it from the playfield.

I couldn't find anyone showing how to repair it.. so here is a brief guide/tutorial on how to repair it if you have the same problem!

1. Start with removing the motor form the playfield
2. Remove the two screws here (Red arrows)

3. You know have to drill away the two brass "rivet" heads to the left (Yellow Arrows on the image above)
Use a metal drill that is a bit thicker than the brass hole so the head are removed.
4. You can now separate the motor from the "gearbox".
Use something to force the remaining brass part out from the motor part (Yellow arrows).

5. Now proceed to drill out the remaining two rivet heads on the gearbox.

6. Use a screwdriver and a hammer or something that fits to remove the old brass. You can now open the gearbox.




7. The grease/lube might look fine, but it's completely dried/rock hard and the cogs wont turn one bit. I tried to clean the old grease with soap and water, but it did not work. So I had to get me some Break Cleaner and finish it off with acetone and a knife, that did the trick! Make sure to clean the holes next to the red arrows, otherwise it will be sluggish. And don't forget to put new grease in those holes also!
Now you put new grease on everything, make sure to use a long lasting one, not a liquid one that will evaporate in a few days! Do your research!!

8. Get 2 long screws and a locking nut were the old brass rivets were to close it up (not on the side that are connected to the motor yet!).
9. Clean the other cogs that are outside of the gear box and make sure they to get some grease where needed.

10. Also make sure to clean this hole and put some small amount of grease in it to.

11. Now you can reassemble the motor part and the gear box part, use 2 long screws and a locking nut to finish it off.
12. Try to turn it with your hand, it should not give much resistance. Mount it back to your game and test !

I hope it atleast can help someone!

 

[stumblor]

Loving this shop log. Showing that SFII whose boss

@MajesticPinball @JAG555

 

[cyberkryten]

Would be seriously tempted by a SFII pinball as the arcade game has so many great memories. I taught all the more dubious characters around Swindon how to play it, which earned me a level of protection when out and about

 

[MajesticPinball]

This is a hugely underated pin. Looking forward to following this log. Good work on repairing those boards so far, i bet that was one hell of a bang!

 

[Trozze]

This is a hugely underated pin. Looking forward to following this log. Good work on repairing those boards so far, i bet that was one hell of a bang!

It seem's to be a really fun game ! Can't wait to get it up and running.

While waiting for the post I cleaned the translite, now it really shine!!







More updates will come later today when I have picked up my packages with spare parts !

I'm glad that you enjoy it!

 

[JAG555]

SFII was my first pinball machine and I have a soft spot for it. However, it also made me want to burn it down to the ground when fixing it up! The lower playfield is a complete pain in the backside!

Good Luck with the work and I will be following. By he way, this game looks amazing with LEDs!

 

[benwillcox]

DISASTER!!

The capacitor on the CPU board exploded, ALL ICs on the CPU burst open with magic smoke, same with the driver board!!!

Goodness me, that has been hacked about a bit! Reminds me of a fault I had on my SFII many years ago - a faulty 5v regulator raised the 5v rail and caused the PAL chip to die, which lucky for me was the only victim of the fault. I was sure that everything on the 5v rail would be dead but I got away very lucky.
Afterwards it was recommended to me to add a clamping zener diode to the main 5v regulator to avoid such a thing happening again. It wouldn't have helped you in this instance as your problem was due to a mis-connection, but I recommend that you do this anyway in case of a similar fault in future - frying everything on the 5v rail is a disaster (as you have unfortunately suffered!)

Here's the message from rec.games.pinball fresh from 2003....:

---------------------
When you repair the power supply, do what I do to any linear
power supply like that - solder a 5V6 5W zener diode across
the output of the unit (above the adjustment pot on that board)
I use a 1N5339B 5V6 5W zener.
Also replace the pot with a good quality enclosed cermet type,
the original pot on that power supply is crap!

Dont' forget to put the zener on *after* the power supply has been repaired
and adjusted to 5.00V first.

Now any over voltage or failed power supply problem will be clamped by the
zener,
a catastrophic fault will blow the fuse
(and occasionally the zener will blow dead short to do that, still good
protection)

Some linear supplies have zener or 'crowbar' protection (a zener and SCR clamp
to short
out overvoltage and blow the fuse) but this model and many others dont...

------------------


Ben

 

[Trozze]

Sorry for the delay, it's been to hot to be in the garage this weekend.

After getting the new U8 chip i still got no life on the CPU board, so I probed the replacement 6502 CPU with my oscilloscope, it's originally a 65SC02 however i could only get my hands on new W65C02.
I found that pin 36 are floating, so I checked the datasheet and found that this in an input for "Bus Enable", this pin is NC on the 65SC02. I checked the Gottlieb System 3 schematic and pin 36 it's not connected to anything.

So I pulled pin 36 high with a 1k resistor to VCC, a higher value might be optimal, but at least I now get life from the system!!
Who know's last time it was running?!

I could hear it playing random sounds, but really crackly, so something is wrong on one of the two soundboards.



After some probing around i found a faulty 74LS30 @A2, tested bad, now it plays the correct sounds after replacing it. But it still sounds wrong and some notes are not correct.



I replaced the YM2151 and Y30148, now it sounds much better. When taking the picture i used a clone YM2151 because that's what i had laying around, I have since changed it to a real one!
The sound was still not perfect, so I replaced all capacitors with "audio"-grade capacitors, almost every capacitor on the PCB had leaked!! So if you got a Street Fighter 2 - you better check if they has begun to leak!
Now it works 100%, no crackling or distortion anymore .

Now it's time to try get some life of the DMD. I got no signs of life at all, so time to start checking the power rails.
All voltages except 95v were present on the DMD driver board, it's needed to create +62v, -100v, -112v, no wonder why the DMD wont work.

I traced the two cables back to the fuse holder next to the transformer, I have never seen broken fuse holder, but this one was broken, so it's just to replace and trash the old one.



Turning it on...



We got life from the DMD! There seems to be 2 lines missing, but that will be a later project, now I can get access to the service menu!
I'm going to test all lamps and solenoids now, I'll be back later today!

@benwillcox: Thanks for the tips, I'm going to replace the pot later, right now I desoldered it and ultrasonic cleaned it, atleast it works now for some time.
@JAG555: Thanks! I will put LEDs in it!

 

[benwillcox]

Top fault finding, looks like the machine is in good hands!

 

[Trozze]

Update time!

I decided to make sure everything worked before tearing down the playfield, starting with the solenoids.

The "Stargate" coils blew the fuses when turned on, I heard tat this is a common problem before so I had already ordered replacements.
Both of the old were fried and shorted.


This fixed the fuse problem ! However, both of them are always energized when turning the machine on...
Measured both transistors on the driverboard that drives the stargate coils, both shorted. So replaced them and now they work as they should!

The top left flipper is not working at all. The problem was a disconnected cable to the button, soldering it back on fixed it!

All solenoids are now somewhat working, they need to be cleaned and replace all coil sleeves and some springs. Time to strip down the playfield .






It took lots of time to disassemble the top part of the playfield, but everything went ok.
The solenoids and switches was easy to remove .

This is the result after cleaning the playfield, turned out great!!




The bottom plastic were gross! But after some cleaning it turned out great

Example of the bottom one:




Next up is cleaning all coils and switches! Stay tuned

 

[JAG555]

This machine always brings a smile to my face!

Nice work!

 

[benwillcox]

Very nice, my playfield wasn't that dirty but the subway plastics were as black as that, I thought they were supposed to be black until I started cleaning them! Very satisfying seeing it come up like new.
By the way, replacement cars are available here: https://www.ministryofpinball.com/en/street-fighter-2-car-plastic.html if yours is mashed up.

Ben