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Stern Jurassic park
- Thread starter Duncan
- Start date
No its not stuck as it works fine on coil test.
Maybe the flipper button switch has failed or just come loose?
The right flipper button operates the bottom right flipper as well and that works fine.
Hmm so you say the coil works and engages on test. The button works as the bottom right flipper engages fine.. So I would check the leaf switch and wiring. I'm not sure if this is like the Star Trek I had but it had three layers to the switch. When the second layer made contact it activated the buttom flipper and when the button was pushed in further it made contact with the third layer to activate the top flipper. I suspect its the same design. Maybe the third layer has moved too far away to make contact. Can you try manually engaging it by closing them together with your fingers to test?
2 separate switches though . I've had the odd dodgy non flip on my Deadpool, it was the connector that takes the flipper button inputs on the node board by the trough. I just reseated the connector and it fixed the issue.
Ok tried unplugging cables put back in, started a game nothing at first then it fired once then stopped. So gave the flipper help with my fingers and played the whole game no problem. Switched game off put the glass back on started a game and its dead will not move.
One thing I have noticed the coil will turn right round do you think it could be a faulty coil?
One thing I have noticed the coil will turn right round do you think it could be a faulty coil?
Check the gap between the leaf switches at the flipper button.
I can't think of anything else it can be
if the lower flipper works properly, the upper flipper fires in test without issue and you've reseated the connectors as suggested.
I can't think of anything else it can be
if the lower flipper works properly, the upper flipper fires in test without issue and you've reseated the connectors as suggested.
I guess it could be a faulty node board, they're known to completely fail, not normally for having specific input/output faults. If you're really struggling you could try swapping node boards 8 and 9 around, making sure to set the dip switches accordingly.
Also, checking the wires going into the connector for flipper inputs, I know @ianw recently had to re-pin a switch input connector on his Ghostbusters after a lot of head scratching.
Also, checking the wires going into the connector for flipper inputs, I know @ianw recently had to re-pin a switch input connector on his Ghostbusters after a lot of head scratching.
So it could be a bad coil or diode issue
However you say it engages every time no issue on a coil test correct? If thats the case its not likely.
Could be a Node board issue?
Wiring is definitely OK with nothing loose right or badly soldered anywhere?
However you say it engages every time no issue on a coil test correct? If thats the case its not likely.
Could be a Node board issue?
Wiring is definitely OK with nothing loose right or badly soldered anywhere?
Does the input show up in switch test?
So what happens when you manually close the leafs/layers. Does it correctly engage or does it still go limp?
Take a pic with flipper button pressed in
That seems an odd set-up to me; the button only actively closes one pair of contacts, the other relies on its own adjustment to close when the button moves the obstruction of the longest blade out of the way. There's a nasty kink (is its name Ray?) in one of the 'loose' pair, too. In the picture directly above, I'm not sure whether there should be a gap between the white plastic (de)actuator and the longest blade, either.
Thought this was worth mentioning just in case:
I had a faulty target that acted in a similar way, would occasionally trigger then gave up - I loosened the two screws that held the whole assembly/cluster together and it started working, retightened and it’s continued to work since?!?
I had a faulty target that acted in a similar way, would occasionally trigger then gave up - I loosened the two screws that held the whole assembly/cluster together and it started working, retightened and it’s continued to work since?!?
Clean the contacts between them as well though it's a JP2 right? Shouldn't really be dirty...
It's hard to make out from the shot but it does look like they are making contact.
In Switch test, when the flipper isn't working, is the flipper button input showing up? ( regardless of whether the flipper moves or not ). Just trying to determine if the switch being made is being seen by the system.
Just bridge the wires together on the switch and see if it works bet it will
D
Deleted member 2463
stop doing coil tests.
check all the connectors to the two node boards at either end of the game.
check all the connectors on the coin door board on the left hand side of the game.
check all the connectors to the CPU board.
Go into switch test mode.
press the switch like its Daley Thompsons decathlon. does it show the upper flipper switches on the display?, it will show the lower flipper then the upper flipper. Press and hold it a few times.
Video it and post it up.
Neil.
check all the connectors to the two node boards at either end of the game.
check all the connectors on the coin door board on the left hand side of the game.
check all the connectors to the CPU board.
Go into switch test mode.
press the switch like its Daley Thompsons decathlon. does it show the upper flipper switches on the display?, it will show the lower flipper then the upper flipper. Press and hold it a few times.
Video it and post it up.
Neil.
Jib
Site Supporter
Definitely no upper flipper button switch input there.
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