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Star Wars witchcraft

Matt Adams

Matt Adams

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10 Years
Joined
Aug 29, 2011
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Location
Middleton-on-Sea
Ok, so here's a weird one....Shopping a Date East Star Wars (not mine) that is an unknown as far as reliability etc, I got it all back together and had it sitting in attract mode while I was putting led's in it. I started a game and for 10 minutes or so was rolling a ball around to check switches etc. I then played 3 games before the flippers packed up. I looked at the fuses and F6 was blown on the power board, while I was looking at that I noticed a burning smell and "the force" kickout coil was cooking. So my question is what should I look for to cause F6 to blow and how would this cause the coil to cook separately?

Did any of that make sense?!!
 
Fun Fact Number 43 out of a series of 101:

Never change bulbs whilst the machine is on.
 
Somethings been moved when you have changed to LED's, had it happen to me before.
 
In the absence of any other answers...

I'm guessing that "the force" scoop is the left power scoop. If so then that's the coil which fried (25-1240). This is fed with 50v that happens to go through relay K1 the other relay contacts on K1 feed the fuse F6. So I'm guessing that the coil locked on messed up the operation of K1 (maybe even arc between contacts) which then blew F6. Actually any coil locking on may do this as they're all off the same 50v feed.

It looks like the left power scoop is controlled by Q4 and Q43 so both will need checking when the coil is replaced.
 
Hi, right I have had a bit of time to look into this and it seems that the transistor above pin 1 on CN11 of the CPU board has blown (new ones on their way from Andy) the wire on pin 1 is grey with a brown trace and goes to J1 (pin 1) on the PPB board. The coil that burn out is supplied by a yellow wire with purple trace which goes back to J7 on the PPB board. I have separated all the wires and checked them for continuity by buzzing them through and they all seem fine. I have also visually checked all the coils etc for bare wires or anything earthing out and again can’t see anything. Could a dodgy capacitor on a coil cause this? Peter, is there any way of testing the K1 relay? Any ideas of anything else I should look for? Any help gratefully received :)
 
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