Jady,
I do seem to have been sent any payment details.
Can you check and please resend, thanks.
D.
I do seem to have been sent any payment details.
Can you check and please resend, thanks.
D.
Pinball info
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In Progress Snackbar Mod & Open Sign
- Thread starter swinks
- Start date
Hi Darren
Sorry, I stuffed up and somehow missed you, my apologies. Info sent to your pm.
cheers
Jady
Sorry, I stuffed up and somehow missed you, my apologies. Info sent to your pm.
cheers
Jady
Paid.
Update - 4-3-23
- I have reached up to the next 30 + 10 people across multiple forums and facebook.
- decided to order in batches of 40 for some minor cost savings
- aiming to build a batch of 30 ready by the end of March
- aiming to build a mini-batch of 10 a week after the batch of 30
and I will order a last batch of 40 kits worth at the end of march as that will fulfill all orders and leave me a few spare and then take it from there.
- if you haven't heard from me you will then be in this batch which will be ready between mid April through to the end of April.
- if you are worried you have been missed please just reach out and double check where you are placed.
cheers
Jady
- I have reached up to the next 30 + 10 people across multiple forums and facebook.
- decided to order in batches of 40 for some minor cost savings
- aiming to build a batch of 30 ready by the end of March
- aiming to build a mini-batch of 10 a week after the batch of 30
and I will order a last batch of 40 kits worth at the end of march as that will fulfill all orders and leave me a few spare and then take it from there.
- if you haven't heard from me you will then be in this batch which will be ready between mid April through to the end of April.
- if you are worried you have been missed please just reach out and double check where you are placed.
cheers
Jady
Update 10-3-23
- all 30 have been sent out
- a couple of this batch were not ready - traveling so offered to people in the next batch - @Lecari yours left today with a Snackbar Mod
- still waiting on a handful of people to finalise their details for the next run due to go out in about 2 weeks - @Ant-H
- Does anyone know a Kris Boag as got on the order list via mail but not sure if he is on Pinball Info as is in the UK as well
cheers
Jady
- all 30 have been sent out
- a couple of this batch were not ready - traveling so offered to people in the next batch - @Lecari yours left today with a Snackbar Mod
- still waiting on a handful of people to finalise their details for the next run due to go out in about 2 weeks - @Ant-H
- Does anyone know a Kris Boag as got on the order list via mail but not sure if he is on Pinball Info as is in the UK as well
cheers
Jady
Hi All,
Batch 2 is almost ready including yours @Ant-H and then on to Batch 3 where yours @Solar Sailer will be ready soon - next 3-4 weeks
cheers
Jady
Batch 2 is almost ready including yours @Ant-H and then on to Batch 3 where yours @Solar Sailer will be ready soon - next 3-4 weeks
cheers
Jady
Last edited:
Installed into @Lecari 's Creech this afternoon!
View attachment 20230322_154825~2.mp4
Finally Claire's creech feels complete (although could do with new ramps). It's such a fantastic mod and is really well made. No issues installing at all!
I have noticed the snackbar jumps up sometimes when the ball enters the snackbar hole. I think it's when the ball hits the ball guide between the hole and the standups. I imagine it's better for it to move than be rigid and break? Is this common ?
I think I've hit the limit for power also, after installing it I've had one flipper die and the display reset a few times.
I installed the "no more resets" board I have on standby for moments like this and it's been ok since. I guess it's time for an external power supply!
View attachment 20230322_154825~2.mp4
Finally Claire's creech feels complete (although could do with new ramps). It's such a fantastic mod and is really well made. No issues installing at all!
I have noticed the snackbar jumps up sometimes when the ball enters the snackbar hole. I think it's when the ball hits the ball guide between the hole and the standups. I imagine it's better for it to move than be rigid and break? Is this common ?
I think I've hit the limit for power also, after installing it I've had one flipper die and the display reset a few times.
I installed the "no more resets" board I have on standby for moments like this and it's been ok since. I guess it's time for an external power supply!
@David_Vi @Lecari 's game looks great.
I have had a few people experiencing the snackbar jumping and the 2 possible causes are:
- if the scoop bracket is just touching the Snackbar Mod Stainless Steel Plate - ideally it should be should 1-2mm off - if touching it is transferring the impact to the magnet mounting as the scoop cops a hug hit at times
- the snackbar has bolt heads that magnetise to a 3 sets of dual set of magnets so the mod can be easily removed for maintenance. I have a jig for setting the magnets in place so the Snackbar top sits squarely on the plate / magnets but if the mods stainless steel plate is slightly curved once installed due to playfield curve then the 3 bolts in the snackbar top can be wound down a 1/4 or 1/2 turn to get the bolt heads sitting flush on the magnets
I will add the above to the manual to help people and I have the 3d print file for the magnet setting jig if anyone every needs it. Also if adjusting the magnets do not crank the bolt down - just lightly nip the bolt otherwise the magnet may crack. There is a spare magnet in the goodie bag.
As for power I think if memory serves me correctly 10 leds equal 1 incandescent bulb in power draw, so the Open Sign isn't pulling much but the Snackbar is pulling the equivalent of 2 bulbs.
The color dmd and lcd hologram are the killers with power and CFTBL has always been on the limit with power
not sure if the UK games come with a power outlet at the box near the cabinet switch underneath as then adding a power supply is not a problem, sadly Aussie games did not come standard with this but an electrician can fit one.
I have had a few people experiencing the snackbar jumping and the 2 possible causes are:
- if the scoop bracket is just touching the Snackbar Mod Stainless Steel Plate - ideally it should be should 1-2mm off - if touching it is transferring the impact to the magnet mounting as the scoop cops a hug hit at times
- the snackbar has bolt heads that magnetise to a 3 sets of dual set of magnets so the mod can be easily removed for maintenance. I have a jig for setting the magnets in place so the Snackbar top sits squarely on the plate / magnets but if the mods stainless steel plate is slightly curved once installed due to playfield curve then the 3 bolts in the snackbar top can be wound down a 1/4 or 1/2 turn to get the bolt heads sitting flush on the magnets
I will add the above to the manual to help people and I have the 3d print file for the magnet setting jig if anyone every needs it. Also if adjusting the magnets do not crank the bolt down - just lightly nip the bolt otherwise the magnet may crack. There is a spare magnet in the goodie bag.
As for power I think if memory serves me correctly 10 leds equal 1 incandescent bulb in power draw, so the Open Sign isn't pulling much but the Snackbar is pulling the equivalent of 2 bulbs.
The color dmd and lcd hologram are the killers with power and CFTBL has always been on the limit with power
not sure if the UK games come with a power outlet at the box near the cabinet switch underneath as then adding a power supply is not a problem, sadly Aussie games did not come standard with this but an electrician can fit one.
I might do a power spur as I have a colour DMD inbound from Retro City and want to light the speak panel car break lights and possibly the mini TV with film clips Snack Bar mod can grab the existing as I've put LED in now which takes the heat of the circuit.
yeah as for power and mods in this game - typically as sold many snackbars and heard what is the straw that breaks the camels back so often.
- game can handle the speaker panel lit kit, snackbar mod, poster mod, open sign mod, lit car if you go that way of the tail light mod I did as they use leds and in effect less power than the incandescent bulbs
- sometimes the game can handle the colordmd but often resets start to occur if the boards need work
- quite often the following mods are run via additional power - colour dmd, holo dmd, little tv screens
all those power taps don't provide extra 5vdc rather a tapping point to add mods but will still load up the games 5vdc and a bit of the 12vdc but the 5vdc is the issue quite often
- game can handle the speaker panel lit kit, snackbar mod, poster mod, open sign mod, lit car if you go that way of the tail light mod I did as they use leds and in effect less power than the incandescent bulbs
- sometimes the game can handle the colordmd but often resets start to occur if the boards need work
- quite often the following mods are run via additional power - colour dmd, holo dmd, little tv screens
all those power taps don't provide extra 5vdc rather a tapping point to add mods but will still load up the games 5vdc and a bit of the 12vdc but the 5vdc is the issue quite often
I took it off and checked the ball guide. It was loose, I think the holes were stripped. So I packed them and then secured it back down later once the glue had dried. It has lessened the jumping of the snackbar a little bit it still happens. I'm pretty sure it's the ball jumping when it hits that guide. The actual metal plate is secure although is touching the scoop deflector slightly, I'm a little wary about bending it but I could try it.
The magnets on the underside are supposed to be loose right? Sometimes they remain on the metal plate when I remove the snackbar, attached to the other magnets secured to the plate.
That's what i thought, afterall this game would have been full of incandescents before so I don't understand how adding the snackbar could have any impact. It may just be a coincidence considering I added Ledocd gi and the chase echo recently also.
I'm going to try a power supply, at least for the pin2dmd, hopefully that takes off most of the load?
yeah the Snackbar plate was designed to just stand 1-2mm away from the subway scoop guide and over time the scoop guide will bend backwards which is why this in the past breaks so many plastics.
The first magnet is fastened to the plate and then the second magnet simply sits on top of the first magnet with the countersunk side facing upwards, then the snackbar top has the bolt in it which sticks to the top magnet. The snackbar top does have a shaft for the magnets to cradle around the magnets so it will never jump off those magnets and come off the mount plate all together. see attached photo showing the magnets on the plate and then the 3 x cylinders that the magnets slide into with a bolt up in there.
Then the bolts up there are set so there should be 1mm gap between the bottom of the snackbar top and plate. if there is a difference of gap once the plate is fastened down the bolt needs to be wound out until the gap is the same all around so that the mod does not teeter back and fourth on just 2 magnets. check out the gap in the photo.
I doubt the snackbar will cause a power load as it is minimal and less than bulbs. The colordmd and pin2dmd will most probably be the cause
hope that helps
The first magnet is fastened to the plate and then the second magnet simply sits on top of the first magnet with the countersunk side facing upwards, then the snackbar top has the bolt in it which sticks to the top magnet. The snackbar top does have a shaft for the magnets to cradle around the magnets so it will never jump off those magnets and come off the mount plate all together. see attached photo showing the magnets on the plate and then the 3 x cylinders that the magnets slide into with a bolt up in there.
Then the bolts up there are set so there should be 1mm gap between the bottom of the snackbar top and plate. if there is a difference of gap once the plate is fastened down the bolt needs to be wound out until the gap is the same all around so that the mod does not teeter back and fourth on just 2 magnets. check out the gap in the photo.
I doubt the snackbar will cause a power load as it is minimal and less than bulbs. The colordmd and pin2dmd will most probably be the cause
hope that helps
Attachments
The scoop deflector on mine is a bit loose. The screws securing it under the playfield keep loosening off and every so often it hits the metal plate of the snackbar mod. It's probably taken a battering over the years. Will fix it at some point but it's no biggie
Both my Snack bar scoop and Kiss scoop work lose over time - initially the snackbar one was causing the ball to stick occasionally - fixed by using a couple of washers to increase space for ball to travel down.
Kiss one came loose and the ball hitting scoop has broken plastic - tightened up and ball does stick occasionally - seems its a trial and error adjustment.
The last time my snackbar moved it was because of an air ball and the fact I had trapped a wire so was not seated tight on magnets.
Kiss one came loose and the ball hitting scoop has broken plastic - tightened up and ball does stick occasionally - seems its a trial and error adjustment.
The last time my snackbar moved it was because of an air ball and the fact I had trapped a wire so was not seated tight on magnets.
Claire's kiss scoop keeps loosening and turns by only a mm or two, then the KISS gate ends up getting stuck on it
I tried tightening it but think I need to pack and glue the holes.
Probably worth doing that on your Creech @Ped
Really I should take our snack bar scoop out and bend it carefully out of the game but it's such a faff
I tried tightening it but think I need to pack and glue the holes.
Probably worth doing that on your Creech @Ped
Really I should take our snack bar scoop out and bend it carefully out of the game but it's such a faff
check the kiss gate as that is a hard to get part and some people have hacked replacements which then don't always function great
You may already know David; if not for routed out holes some Gorrila Wood Glue and Cocktail sticks works well.
I used that method on the Creech slide wireform and still holding up after a year or so.
I received a package back today as the import duty was not paid within 16 days so the package is sent back to the sender.
Please make sure to keep track of your package and keep on top of a customs payment requests.
When this happens I can refund the payment for the part but not for the postage as it is not covered under insurance as it is deemed that the customer did not work within the time frame and that it is there fault.
please be aware of the 16days time frame once it hits customs at your end.
Please make sure to keep track of your package and keep on top of a customs payment requests.
When this happens I can refund the payment for the part but not for the postage as it is not covered under insurance as it is deemed that the customer did not work within the time frame and that it is there fault.
please be aware of the 16days time frame once it hits customs at your end.
