Securing MDF Kitchen Door Front

  • Hi Guest,

    Want lots of pinball Machines to play in one place??

    One low cost price to let you play all of these??

    If you Fancy visiting the BIGGEST and BEST Pinball show of 2019 Click Here

    (Click the "x" in the top right corner to get rid of this message :D )

DRD

Site Supporter
Oct 26, 2014
3,920
2,689
113
Newark
I made the mistake of buying an integrated AEG dishwasher. In the past I have bought Bosch ones and these are far superior.15730435663036230396336744522797.jpg

The kitchen unit door front has failed, again. This is now 3x in three years. The reason being in that AEG designed it to be attached by 4x screws only. Further, the kitchen door front does not lie flat on the stainless steel dishwasher door, so it bends when you tighten the screws. The kitchen door rests on the plastic molding at the top and 2x plastic bungs at the bottom. This creates a 2mm or so gap.

You can see this daft design that causes the 2mm resultant gap here ..

15730439229127592172846349097442.jpg

I am having to do this wretched job again.

I am going to drill additional holes in the dishwasher door to increase the number of securing screws.

I will insert spacers, glued to the stainless dishwasher door to stop the kitchen unit door bending when the screws are tightened.

Does anyone know a good glue that I could use on the perimeter of the door that would stick vinyl coated MDF to stainless steel that will not run everywhere ? Something that would fill the 2mm gap and could be gouged out in the future if need be.

Any other suggestions very welcome please

Thanks
 

strobey

Registered
Jul 24, 2011
546
401
63
Derbyshire
pinball.live
Alias
Tim
Usually I'd suggest Gripfill, but having just tried No More Ply Megastrength Adhesive... fme... I've never known anything like it.

Clean surface with IPA first - oh and use gloves - you're talking weeks of finger piddling otherwise!!

Tim
 
  • Like
Reactions: DRD
OP
OP
DRD

DRD

Site Supporter
Oct 26, 2014
3,920
2,689
113
Newark
I have used similar stuff then, to join chipboard floors. Basically it sets like superglue ...
 

Dex-Jay

Site Supporter
Nov 20, 2016
442
328
63
51
Midlands
silicone once set it won't come off again...ever
Silicone is just a sealer and it bonds but it's not really adhesive and probably not strong enough. Gripfill is tougher. If you want it on there forever then High Modulus Mastic like Sikaflex. Usually 3x the cost of Gripfill / NO More Nails etc but that stuff I've bonded steel to glass, Stainless steel to mild steel and you could tow a car with it once bonded on.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DRD

ronnie63

Registered
Jun 8, 2015
1,509
474
83
Scotland
Silicone is just a sealer and it bonds but it's not really adhesive and probably not strong enough. Gripfill is tougher. If you want it on there forever then High Modulus Mastic like Sikaflex. Usually 3x the cost of Gripfill / NO More Nails etc but that stuff I've bonded steel to glass, Stainless steel to mild steel and you could tow a car with it once bonded on.

Years ago a siliconed a resin shower tray down, years later had to remove it, came out in 3 pieces although I tried to keep it usable, And silicone is cheap and cheerful
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dex-Jay

Kman

Site Supporter
Jan 15, 2019
117
57
28
Haslemere, Surrey
If you've got several securing screws then seems you need more of an edge filler than an adhesive so I'd add my vote to using silicone. It's easy to work into the gap, choice of colours, doesn't foam like some of the glues and will certainly provide decent adhesion as you are sealing the long edges...……..plus you're only talking 2mm. Solvent free Gripfill (the yellow one) is certainly ok although in theory one surface should be porous, but you will have an open edge to vent the solvent. Pity the gap isn't wider as you may have been able to use expanding foam (a bit messy) to build out the hollow core.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DRD

carl lawrence

Site Supporter
Jul 31, 2011
1,800
719
113
Sandbach
Never had a door come off yet ! But looking at that pic David it looks like you have 2 slotted screws holes on the door ,so that means there is 2 screws which screw on the door first and you slide the kitchen door down the face of the dishwasher door and then there will be 2 screws at the top and probably 2 more on the side ? If you are going to stick the door then I would use silicone I use silicone for upstands and glass / s/steal splash backs on kitchens and when I was young I use to use it to stick car wings back with the stuff !!
 
  • Like
Reactions: DRD

Pick Holder

Site Supporter
Jul 18, 2016
1,104
599
113
Midlands
Get some 'no nails' type stuff. Then clamp the door on for a couple of hours so it doesnt move, if you dont have clamps then use a load of sticky tape wrapped round and around the door whilst its open.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DRD
OP
OP
DRD

DRD

Site Supporter
Oct 26, 2014
3,920
2,689
113
Newark
Absolutely spot on @carl lawrence. 2x locating screws go in the slots. Then 4x screws to attach the door.

I fit the odd kitchen and have installed Bosch, whirlpool and aeg integrated dishwashers in recent years

The Bosch fixing mechanism is head and shoulders above these other brands.
 
  • Like
Reactions: carl lawrence

JT.

Registered
Jul 24, 2011
2,336
932
113
North West UK
www.pornhub.com
Could you just glue the door on? Beko ALLCON 10 Construction Adhesive is great. It'll hold 130kg per square cm applied, so you wouldn't need screws. I use it for curtain poles, after they kept coming loose after a year or two with various types of mechanical fixings and rawl plugs in plasterboard . It just works.