How easy is this to do, any pitfalls i need to watch out for, how do you actually get the old mylar off without damaging the artwork underneath?
Any tips or tricks gratefully received thanks
Any tips or tricks gratefully received thanks
Replacing damaged Mylar
- Thread starter mark adams
- Start date
i'm also interested in this question. the best way to remove mylar. is it by heating with a hot air gun or by freezing with a cold freeze spray?
Hi Mark
Mylar is always best left. If it's really scratched up, badly bubbling or lifting, then it's more worthwhile. There's plenty of chat on here regarding removal so I won't go in to that.
Once removed, i personally wouldn't bother re mylaring it. If it's for home use then leave it or I can highly recommend the makrolon playfield protectors from Best of Pinball.
What game is it for
Mylar is always best left. If it's really scratched up, badly bubbling or lifting, then it's more worthwhile. There's plenty of chat on here regarding removal so I won't go in to that.
Once removed, i personally wouldn't bother re mylaring it. If it's for home use then leave it or I can highly recommend the makrolon playfield protectors from Best of Pinball.
What game is it for
i think you should mention what kind of generation is your pin. i don't think you remove the mylar of an old pf as on a diamond plated one.
OP
OP
Big gamble
I have very little experience of this, but successfully removed mylar from scared stiff and vector. I was very happy with these. The critical factor that led me to remove it was that the mylar was already lifting at the edges, so I knew that the glue was failing
my paragon had slingshot mylar, one bubbled and burst so needed removal. This removed some paint as the glue was like concrete
Personally i think gentle warming with a hairdryer is the most logical. Freezing causes sudden stripping of the mylar which is terrifying
I backed away from pulling the mylar on my old bk2k (due to known issues with stripping the insert text which would be a nightmare on this game), funhouse (as a mylar polish and leds really improved the look of it), banzai as i was chicken
The one thing guaranteed to be worse than bad mylar, is a bad mylar pull
Lots of stuff online about this. Heat method, freeze method, just have a few drinks and pull method ...
Best bet is to leave it. You can buff dull mylar with a drill mop and plastic polish.putting leds in helps hide mylar bubbles over inserts.
If you do pull it, leave it off. Keep the game well waxed to protect it. No point putting another one on which will be a nightmare in the future when it fails.
I have very little experience of this, but successfully removed mylar from scared stiff and vector. I was very happy with these. The critical factor that led me to remove it was that the mylar was already lifting at the edges, so I knew that the glue was failing
my paragon had slingshot mylar, one bubbled and burst so needed removal. This removed some paint as the glue was like concrete
Personally i think gentle warming with a hairdryer is the most logical. Freezing causes sudden stripping of the mylar which is terrifying
I backed away from pulling the mylar on my old bk2k (due to known issues with stripping the insert text which would be a nightmare on this game), funhouse (as a mylar polish and leds really improved the look of it), banzai as i was chicken
The one thing guaranteed to be worse than bad mylar, is a bad mylar pull
Lots of stuff online about this. Heat method, freeze method, just have a few drinks and pull method ...
Best bet is to leave it. You can buff dull mylar with a drill mop and plastic polish.putting leds in helps hide mylar bubbles over inserts.
If you do pull it, leave it off. Keep the game well waxed to protect it. No point putting another one on which will be a nightmare in the future when it fails.
