Removing Mylar from your playfield

[replicas]

Hoping someone can jump in on this as I hate using both ways (Heat Gun and Freeze Method) mainly because both leave glue behind and thats the biggest pain in the ass to get rid of,

This evening I bit the bullet on removing mylar on my latest machine by not using either of the above and taking it really slow just lifting the mylar and very slowly pulling it of. Now I think with it being such a nice day today might have helped as the machine was pretty warm and I am sure it helped the mylar lift. The best thing was no glue was left over and it lifted a lot eaiser than I thought it would. This was propper mylar and not the stelth stuff so to attually get it all off without doing any damage , Well to say I'm chuffed would be a understatement.

This machine was pretty dirty but was totally protected by a full sheet so every area that usually wears was like new , infact the playfield looks like its just come off the production line at Williams.

I have been after a JM for a long time and this one is one of the best examples I have ever seen, or it will be once done.

I am one happy bunny at the moment . A few pic's of the progress.

[attachment=40:JM 013.jpg]



Now I can get on with the rest of the clean up

 

[Rus121]

Looks great under that 'orrible stuff. Last time i played JM was years ago now, but i still remember its superb pace and flow. Would own one in a heartbeat. Hope the restore goes well for ya...

 

[Phil Dixon]

JM been kicking my ass all afternoon. brilliant game. Think you were lucky doing it that way. FWIW I us servisol label remover for the glue easy to get it off.

 

[replicas]

JM been kicking my ass all afternoon. brilliant game. Think you were lucky doing it that way. FWIW I us servisol label remover for the glue easy to get it off.

I was very lucky ,Phil. This is open for someone who knows more on the subject of mylar removal.

But I now have the base for one of the best condition JM 's out there.

Like you say Phil its one of the fastest games out there and at times can really kick ass. Can't wait til its all done so I can get some games in on it.

 

[mufcmufc]

You were lucky not to remove anything around the inserts, must have been a factory (or op from NIB) mylar. I don't have a problem using the freeze method followed by goo gone (or whatever), just spray that on and leave for 10-20mins and remove with a plastic razor blade in around 10 mins. I did a Dr Who in 45 minutes total with no heart stopping moments doing it that way

 

[replicas]

Looks great under that 'orrible stuff. Last time i played JM was years ago now, but i still remember its superb pace and flow. Would own one in a heartbeat. Hope the restore goes well for ya...

Cheers Russ.

Looking forward to the restore. Been after this title for some time.

 

[replicas]

You were lucky not to remove anything around the inserts, must have been a factory (or op from NIB) mylar. I don't have a problem using the freeze method followed by goo gone (or whatever), just spray that on and leave for 10-20mins and remove with a plastic razor blade in around 10 mins. I did a Dr Who in 45 minutes total with no heart stopping moments doing it that way

Yep very lucky.

If fact looking back I don't know what I was thinking of in doing this and taking such a chance. I would have been gutted if any of the insert decals would have lifted.

 

[Wizards_Hat]

I've never done Mylar removal and was thinking about doing it to a Cyclone I picked up recently.

Does anyone have (A) either a good description of how to do it by either the "freeze spray" method or "heat gun" method, or a link to descriptions of them, and (

a list of easily available products for doing this with in the UK.



Thanks,

Dan.

 

[Phil Dixon]

Fairly good vid here. I use pipe freezer (plumb center, wickes etc) not canned air, if you have to use force to remove it then it's not done what it should. This will leave the glue behind. To deal with that I use Servisol label remover from Maplin, squirt it on and leave it for a minute and then scrape the crud off with an old credit card, you may have to go over it twice and then with a cotton rag to remove it all. One can has done 4 playfields so don't worry about running out!

 

[pinballparadise]

Phil at PH, says it's a no, no.



I suppose you can't really tell unless you know the FULL history of the table, because it may of been applied from factory therefore thus it's been on the play field for years making it a Mammouth task to remove.



.. We've a Police Force with it on, granted the table is VERY clean but the Mylar seems to of been fitted by someone with 2 left hands & 4 fingers.

 

[replicas]

Fairly good vid here. I use pipe freezer (plumb center, wickes etc) not canned air, if you have to use force to remove it then it's not done what it should. This will leave the glue behind. To deal with that I use Servisol label remover from Maplin, squirt it on and leave it for a minute and then scrape the crud off with an old credit card, you may have to go over it twice and then with a cotton rag to remove it all. One can has done 4 playfields so don't worry about running out!

Makes it look pretty easy.

 

[pinballparadise]

Too easy..



I'm all for trial & error.. but.

 

[replicas]

Too easy..



I'm all for trial & error.. but.

Every one I have spoke to swears by the freeze method, only thing I hate is getting rid of the left over glue.

 

[pinballparadise]

Would Goo Gone do the trick?



We use it now & again.. It smells like Orange Juice IMO.



Not to be drank!

 

[replicas]

Goo Gone does work among others but it takes a while to get rid of. And if you have a large area to clean up it can take ages.

 

[pinballparadise]

Will & Power?



Elbow & Grease?

 

[Biff]

Replicas - are you clear coatng afterwords or just pollishing? Be good to know and reasons why please.



JB

 

[Rus121]

Clearcoating sure does look nice. I do wonder about potential issues with ball spin, and speed on already difficult games. Perhaps someone could enlighten us?

 

[replicas]

Replicas - are you clear coatng afterwords or just pollishing? Be good to know and reasons why please.



JB

After all the mylar was removed it left a playfield in like new condition, for this reason I am just going to wax and polish. Reason being it will play a lot better than if I clearcoated. A lot of people don't like the way a game plays if its been clearcoated, I find little difference but a home use only machine will never cause wear so thats another reason why its not being cleared.

 

[Biff]

I keep seeing that written down "home use wont need clear coating, surly its only a matter of time either way?



I have a Black Knight 2k, opnly just the proud owner. The playfield is in pretyty good order, apart from the lifting Mylar and the small splits in the wood vanear. Now in order to repair that, i need to match and dollup some acrylic paint in. Then i will need to seel it in with Mylar or clear coat. Surly if the clear coarts is flattened and saneded corrcetly, you get a playfield that will last a heck of a while.



Thanks



JB

 

[replicas]

I keep seeing that written down "home use wont need clear coating, surly its only a matter of time either way?



I have a Black Knight 2k, opnly just the proud owner. The playfield is in pretyty good order, apart from the lifting Mylar and the small splits in the wood vanear. Now in order to repair that, i need to match and dollup some acrylic paint in. Then i will need to seel it in with Mylar or clear coat. Surly if the clear coarts is flattened and saneded corrcetly, you get a playfield that will last a heck of a while.



Thanks



JB

The best results that you can hope for would be to seal the repairs you make with a few coats of clearcoat. And like you say its going to last a hell of long time.

Good luck in removing the mylar its a tricky playfield with all those inserts.

 

[Biff]

Thanks. Speaking of inserts, the big orange one in the middle, i think, has cracked, some others alos suffering mionor dammage. It is certainly displaced suggesting that it has broken. Other than the US and perhaps Aus, ay where in europe that stocks them - i have asked google .

 

[replicas]

Thanks. Speaking of inserts, the big orange one in the middle, i think, has cracked, some others alos suffering mionor dammage. It is certainly displaced suggesting that it has broken. Other than the US and perhaps Aus, ay where in europe that stocks them - i have asked google

.

Try Karsten Beck, Best of Pinball (Germany) He does sell some inserts, which ones, I can't remember.

 

[Poibug]

I have only done one removal of mylar - a FHouse.

Had no luck with freeze method - only had small can so,against all known sanity removed it by very very gently pulling it.

Virtually no damage but would not recommend doing it that way!!Removing glue was a PITA.But now have panel wipe and goo gone



TYHO

 

[replicas]

I have only done one removal of mylar - a FHouse.

Had no luck with freeze method - only had small can so,against all known sanity removed it by very very gently pulling it.

Virtually no damage but would not recommend doing it that way!!Removing glue was a PITA.But now have panel wipe and goo gone



TYHO

Even with Goo Gone its still a pain and takes ages.