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Playfield issues

JMP

JMP

Registered
10 Years
Joined
Aug 12, 2011
Messages
3,535
Location
Lancashire
Probably old questions here (sorry) but picked up my first project with playfield wear and worn in dirt that I just can't shift. Additional mylar applied by previous owner has come off and left generally good clean areas, but where it meets the exposed playfield, there's notable dull colour and dirt in there.

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So far I've tried foam cleaner, novus, cream cleaner and out of sheer frustration; IPA with no luck. Appears I need something to take a very thin top layer of paint off to bring the colour closer to that under the mylar. Any suggestions? Cheers.

Think this bit needs a paint job !

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Magic Eraser... and alcohol... be REALLY REALLY careful tho.... Tiny little bit at a time....

Done at your own risk...

just be really really careful....
 
Tried IPA Paul, didn't seem to work... and when used previously elsewhere with a magic eraser sponge, left a milky residue. Will give another try though, I'm expecting to do some painting anyway so won't matter a so much if goes tits up.
 
Isn't it just changes in the paint relative to light? Ie less light (UV probably) has got to the paint under the mylar.

It's 26 years old FFS!
 
replicas said:
Looks like you have your work cut out with that one John.
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The worst around the changeover lanes is solid black, so the whole lot will be painted back in. The borders around inserts doesn't bother me either, done that before. Just not happy with the age-related (yes Abaxas; 26 years age/wear/muck/spittle/smoke/light and whatever) discolouration to the non-mylared parts.
 
I guess it's welcome to old stuff!

Once in a while we all suffer from the perfectionism curse, as long as we can get over it, all is well.
 
Stop talking useless b*llocks and keep out of my threads, I've asked you once already.
 
John,

I use IPA and magic eraser first. You want to do it lightly, and keep the eraser _soaked_ in IPA. If it goes dry it turns into sandpaper. It will take some time so keep at it (without wearing paint off) The magic eraser and IPA is designed to get dirt and swirl marks our of abrasions in the paint, so it of course is no good on the Mylar parts.

Yes it will leave white residue, stage to is cleaning with Novus 2 for me, that will get rid of the residue and polish things up, Novus 2 also helps with the discoloration to some extent as you are effectively polishing off a thin layer of the top of the paint, like when you T-cut a car. Again, spend some time, but don't go overboard or rub the paint off

HTH
 
Thanks, very good of you sir. Is that air-brush application only?

Luke, I seem to recall your magic erasers were like a rigid block, mine are soft sponges.... don't seem to get same results but will have another go later. Remember it worked well on your Jungle Lord. Thanks.
 
JMP said:
Thanks, very good of you sir. Is that air-brush application only?
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Its very thin stuff so I don't think it would be useful without an airbrush. That said, airbrush kits are super cheap these days:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Dual-...s_DrawingSupplies_EH&var=&hash=item2ed01a1f38

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Airbrush-...Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH&hash=item2c649bc1db

The second kit is the same as the one i have. Those createx brand paints dry super flat without horrible orange peel effect. As they are water based if you mess up you can just wipe it off and start again. Anyway, if you still want the paint send me your addy and ill get it sent off to you.
 
Are you taking the Mylar off John?

I was going to, you know when it was my machine ;) :P
 
Rus121 said:
The second kit is the same as the one i have. Those createx brand paints dry super flat without horrible orange peel effect. As they are water based if you mess up you can just wipe it off and start again. Anyway, if you still want the paint send me your addy and ill get it sent off to you.
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Thanks will take a look at them but not sure I trust myself with air-brushing such fine areas... Thanks for offer, but will see if I can get a match applied by fine craft brush first. Cheers anyway.

Arv said:
Are you taking the Mylar off John?

I was going to, you know when it was my machine ;) :p
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Har ;). The non factory mylar came off last night, the majority without any paint although some flakes did go with it... A couple of inserts have raised so was thinking about the factory mylar too so can level the inserts, but bit bothered about more paint coming up, even with freeze/heat treatment. Think may leave as is for now and see how the ball behaves when played.
 
I did my BK2K with the freezing trick, worked fine. Go on you'll be fine :)
 
Tread carefully if cleaning with either magic eraser or a bath rubber as both are harsh with paintwork.
Also removing Mylar on this era of game is not for the faint hearted and one mistake can leave you in tears or throwing the toys from the pram.
Be careful with stuff like tcut as it's petroleum based.
 
what about one of them treasure cove kits? dunno if that kind of thing could tackle that john but I salute you sir por wanting to resurrect the old girl
 
Nice, solid colours on it would make it a good full restore candidate. I'd be tempted to just strip down the full lot and go all out. :cool:

RudeDogg1 said:
what about one of them treasure cove kits? dunno if that kind of thing could tackle that john but I salute you sir por wanting to resurrect the old girl
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Might end up with just bare wood trying to polish it? Looks very delicate as it is.
 
Only Zac's did with them being European.
Leaded paints were banned in the States so couldn't be used.
Shame really, if they could have been used there would have been a lot more playfield in like new condition.
 
Its not like anyone is going to ingest a playfield. They should make exceptions in that regard but would probably argue that someone somewhere would end up with a whole machine up their starfish. :rofl:
 
Surely you would have to be dry humping the hell out of it to get some in you?

Where's Dan anyway?:D
 
Ironic that the Yanks banned lead paint on playfields in the past, but are still able to use lead solder over there, whilst us Europeans now have to put up with all that ROHS nonsense including crappy lead free solder in our games :(
 
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