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Pinball Legs

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robertlucas1970

I have 4 pins in my conservatory and the only way I can add a 5th is if I can do a modification to the back legs.
The windows in the conservatory are 12" back from the window sill, so if I can remove the back legs and slide the pins back over the top of the window sill I will gain 12" each side of the room which means I can put some on the other side. I would have room to walk down the middle to get to the door.
So has anybody got the skills to modify some rear legs to 350mm ?
Also I dont want to chop up the legs I have, so would need to find some others, I dont want to just cut them, I would still want the foot plate welded in place so I can have adjustment.
Or is there something I can buy off the shelf that might do the job ?
Many Thanks
Robert 20160514_173707.jpg
 
I'd probably take a leg to a steel works and ask for a quote in the lengths you want for something fabricated that would do the job. A bit of L shaped steel cut to length with holes drilled for the cab and a bit folded over and a nut welded for the feet. Wont look pretty but use protectors to prevent cab damage. Then use the feet you already have or buy new ones from pinball heaven. Don't butcher existing legs or resale will be a problem! I thoroughly admire your commitment to getting more pins!! :)
 
I would remove the back legs completely a put a block of wood the correct height on the window sill and rest the machine on that

I was thinking about this, but I will need some sort of adjustment, I will go the DIY shop tomorrow for some ideas.
I just tried it the way things are and she said its not acceptable as she cant get the washing out, as long as you side shuffle you can get through the gap, I will get her a smaller washing basket in the morning see if that helps the situation........

But you can see a good bit of room behind the pins on both sides if I can get rid of the back legs

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Put the back legs through that window. Sorted

Oh, and you are *definitely* gonna catch your knob and bollo_cks on that gun handle more than once. Plus crack your head on it when picking up something stored underneath. Don't worry, both of these are a rite of passage in the hobby
 
You will need them to be less than 350mm. You have to allow for the levellers. I'd suggest around 300mm.

The bottoms plate of the legs will need cutting off and welding back on as you will still need the levelling feet.
 
Could use some 4x1 and make a box section sitting on timber skides ?
Something on these lines maybe ?
image.jpg
And yes I have had a drink already :rolleyes:
 
A bit of wood of the right thickness cut slighly longer than the width of a cab. Then drill a hole near each end and put in a captive nut. This will let you screw a leveller foot in and allow adjustment for levelling.

You will want a few bits of Dexion strapping to bolt to the leg bolts and screw into the dud of wood (so pin doesn't fall off the wood). I would probably be looking something to stop it slipping of the window sill also, just for double security if you have a few exciting games.

Edit:
I now see Carl's drawing is sort of what I'm talking about. But add on straps to allow it to be attached to the pin
 
I bloody love this thread, pinball addiction in a whole new way [emoji851]


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I live very near a forge, and they made me a perfect replacement Whitewater light cover (the bit that sits on top of the backbox and hides the chase lights.) Anyway, I am pretty sure they could make some short legs for you with a thread at the bottom to accomodate leg levelers if you wanted, but I am guessing they would be steel and very functional looking and also not cheap. (The replacement Whitewater thingy was about £35)

Anyway if you know the exact length you want I could bring a spare leg in and ask the for a quote. But I would have thought a wooden block would be much easier....
 
Just had another look at your pictures and that window board is not a window board it is in fact plastic fascia board :eek:
So putting leg leveller on this is not a good idea ,it will punch through the fascia !!
So still make the box and stick rubber on the top and bottom to stop it slipping
image.jpg
The legs of the machine will be above the open cavity ,hope you can under stand this pic ;)
 
Thanks for all the tips, I have come up with a solution that should be OK.
I have ordered a load of these and will then just get some nice chunky wood, or even some 25mm ply and then I can have a better surface area under the pin, will also use some padded servo tape just to hold the wood in place.
Have also ordered a trolley to make the job easy and I am sure its a good tool to have, got the one recommended on here with the fold down handle for 200 quid, so I can then add a 5th pin :)

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Just had another look at your pictures and that window board is not a window board it is in fact plastic fascia board :eek:
So putting leg leveller on this is not a good idea ,it will punch through the fascia !!
So still make the box and stick rubber on the top and bottom to stop it slipping
View attachment 30236
The legs of the machine will be above the open cavity ,hope you can under stand this pic ;)

Great drawing, the fascia is pretty thin stiff, so will just cut some ply to go on top first or position the leg so it sits over that brickwork which is why the trolley will be a great help with this.

Many Thanks
 
I'd be worried about nudging the pin if the back legs were just held in with 4 little vertical screws. Especially with a glass wall behind it!
 
I'd be worried about nudging the pin if the back legs were just held in with 4 little vertical screws. Especially with a glass wall behind it!

I will countersink the ply and bolt these on, will use 3 to every pin, I would go about 18" down the pin and servo tape is very strong stuff just to hold the wood in position, but can be removed without causing any sort of damage.
So nice big bit of 25mm ply under the pin with legs bolted on should do the trick.
Will soon let you know if I nudge it through the glass and into the garden :) and with Ghostbusters such a hard game that just might happen !
 
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