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Pin shed temperatures

ShootAgainChris

ShootAgainChris

Registered
Joined
Feb 24, 2014
Messages
253
Location
Chingford, london
Hi All

Just moved house and been converting my breeze block built shed to be suitable for pinball. So far I have extensively cleaned, sealed the walls and floor and insulated the roof.

Just wondering what people realisticly keep the temperatures up to in winter. I plan to run a heater on all the time. Just wanting to know what temp People successfully keep pins in without any major issues

Also is there any gizmos that people use for
Monitoring temp in a garage and feeding the number back to the house or a phone.
 
Had my pins in a wooden summerhouse for 3 years with no ill effects (at least on the two that actually work!). I think moisture is probably more important than min or max temps. Wood just soaks up moisture like a sponge, causing expansion and leading to weakened joints and cracking paint. I use my summerhouse as an office all year round so it does get heated 5 days a week except if it's exceptionally cold and then I work in the main house otherwise the 2kW fan heater has to run constantly to keep it warm.

I suppose a block-built outhouse might be more susceptible to condensation? Instead of heating maybe run an dehumidifier as it'll kick out a bit of heat as well as remove any dampness.
 
I'll be aiming to keep it around 17-20 or higher as it's also the work office, plus it's very well insulated by design.
If it was just pins then probably allow it down to 14-15 maybe, boosting when i go in there.
 
I'm jumping in on this thread as it links in with my insulation question.

@DRD
@Jsyjay

Here is the photo of my garage roof. What would be the best insulation ?

image.jpeg
 
stoptap said:
I'm jumping in on this thread as it links in with my insulation question.

@DRD
@Jsyjay

Here is the photo of my garage roof. What would be the best insulation ?

View attachment 34166
Click to expand...

Exactly the same roof as my garage, was it from Pudsey Concrete Garages?

FYI, mine is currently "partially" insulated, I've just shoved some celotex up into the rafters, leaving an airgap on the roof side, and I have not noticed a condensation problem
 
I recommend dehumidifiers. The older type are more economical as you can turn a dial to set the humidity percentage you want it at. Then it will just switch off and on as required. Modern digital ones tend to just be low/medium/high etc.

Regardless of whether you have a condensation problem or not, I'd say spending a few pence of electric per month is money werll spent to keep thousands of pounds worth of pins bone dry :thumbs:
 
lukewells said:
Exactly the same roof as my garage, was it from Pudsey Concrete Garages?

FYI, mine is currently "partially" insulated, I've just shoved some celotex up into the rafters, leaving an airgap on the roof side, and I have not noticed a condensation problem
Click to expand...
It could well have been Luke. They are local to me. It was already here when I moved in in 1999.
Just had the old up and over door removed and new concrete panels and a regular (house type) door fitted.
I'm thinking of getting some decent insulation in and then running a heater/de-humidifier combo through the winter.
 
stoptap said:
Here is the photo of my garage roof. What would be the best insulation ?
Click to expand...
I'll jump in on that too ;) Looks like you've got corrugated (asbestos?) roof sheets. I'd fill in between the wooden beams with 50 or 75mm Kingspan (the hard orange foam with silver foil on both sides) and then finish it off with fire-rated plasterboard panels. The Kingspan (or Celotex) is great at keep the roof cool. I used to have plain insulation in my summerhouse roof but switched to 75mm Kingspan when my neighbour, a builder, gave me a load of offcuts. The silver foil effectively reflects the heat away and now the roof doesn't get hot at all on the inside. I also used 100mm Kingspan when I did my loft conversion. The roof is totally south facing and is unlined slate. In the summer you can fry eggs on it and the loft used to easily get to 40-45'C, but not any more!
 
Nedreud said:
I'll jump in on that too ;) Looks like you've got corrugated (asbestos?) roof sheets. I'd fill in between the wooden beams with 50 or 75mm Kingspan (the hard orange foam with silver foil on both sides) and then finish it off with fire-rated plasterboard panels. The Kingspan (or Celotex) is great at keep the roof cool. I used to have plain insulation in my summerhouse roof but switched to 75mm Kingspan when my neighbour, a builder, gave me a load of offcuts. The silver foil effectively reflects the heat away and now the roof doesn't get hot at all on the inside. I also used 100mm Kingspan when I did my loft conversion. The roof is totally south facing and is unlined slate. In the summer you can fry eggs on it and the loft used to easily get to 40-45'C, but not any more!
Click to expand...
It is corrugated concrete sheets. Just had it checked over when I had the new front put on. Thanks for the info. :thumbs:
 
@stoptap

Sorry but this one is beyond me. Have not faced this scenario. I would call the technical helplines of celotex and kingspan. I would also wonder whether you need ventilation in the roof. This is a voodoo scenario. Answers will drive you mad

My guess would be that you coûld bołt wood between the metal struts, plasterboard then fixes to this wood. Celotex where the roof void is small. Your choice of celotex or cheaper fibreglass where the roof void is larger

Or, if you can find a good adhesive, glue celotex to the underside of the roof

Or spray foam on the underside of the roof. I think this might be your winner
 
Thanks great stuff everyone,I think I will start with a dehumidifier then and see how I go.

How about remote monitoring of temperature? Although everyone says temp isn't as important I think it would still be good to keep an eye on. Googling it shows lots of tech, does anyone here have a good one To reccomend?
 
in concrete shed building i'd make sure you had an air gap or you will risk serious condensation issues.

banging some wood between the real roof to create it, and then putting the insulation against the new fake roof. as noted above might be worth a call to the insulation folks.

Dehumidifier a must. I wouldn't let the temperature drop below 14/15 personally speaking.

i'm looking at sensors for my garden room but they don't seem to be cheap, waiting on a price for this:

http://www.hw-group.com/products/STE2/ste2-wifi-thermometer_en.html

will let you know how much, but not expecting change from £150 but it does both temperature and humidity.

Neil.
 
Neil McRae said:
i'm looking at sensors for my garden room but they don't seem to be cheap, waiting on a price for this:

http://www.hw-group.com/products/STE2/ste2-wifi-thermometer_en.html

will let you know how much, but not expecting change from £150 but it does both temperature and humidity.

Neil.
Click to expand...

It's little brother is £236 + Vat - http://www.sensormetrix.co.uk/hwg-ste2_p_830.php , So you are very slightly under ;)

It's cheaper to stick an external weather station in there at around £50 and put the receiver in the house :)
 
My shed is set to 14 degrees C over night and 16 during the day.

Its strange as 16 sounds low but when I get down there in the winter and play its not bad and heats up to 18 pretty quick.
 
Had to google sous vide... you're right I won't be doing many steaks but you can cook vegetables too apparently ;)
 
for heating if the outbuilding is near the house use a zone valve on your house boiler and put central heating in there with its own thermostat,my arcade room was to far away from the house so I used an oil fired boiler of ebay for £16 and fitted it in to a small shed,before I did this I was using electric heater,it was so expensive now it only costs me about £5 a week in winter and I keep it at 20 degrees in there.
 
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