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Perfect weather for a Stripper

MadNat

MadNat

Registered
5Years
Joined
May 11, 2019
Messages
1,059
Location
Warwickshire UK
Time to re-decal the TOTAN...

Been wanting to do this for quite some time, and finally got the time and inclination. One side is much more faded than the other - you can see how the blue faded where the coin door sat. Quite an interesting effect from fading - looks like it gave a richer blue.

I prefer to sand off the original screen print, than heat gun and scraper.
Gives a much smoother finish for the new decals to stick too - and not show any unwanter bumps and scrapes.

Fill and sand a bit more before applying the new decals.

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That really isn't faded, you should see my FT :oops:

Watching with interest, I have a new decals set for FT, just no time.

Chris.
 
Bit of corner rebuilding (not sure why I do this...), and square off the bottom - 25 years of dragging, rotating and other abuse take its toll.

I like the Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler (2 part) - about £11 from Screwfix. It's pretty hard, but sands nicely and you can use a stanley knife blade as a mini plane to get to the right level.

Trick is to build it back up gradually (this isnt finished on mine yet).
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agree - i love that stuff. I found a tin in my parents garage last year - was about 20 years old of car “plastic padding”. it looks and smells exactly the same, mixed it up and it was even better , super hard and sands very smooth 😂
 
Dex-Jay said:
Nice work! Have fun stripping!
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Who's decals have you gone for?
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I bought and am applying Mr Pinballs from Australia. I also have a set of original PPS but don't like the greeny blue genie so much. Also I found the official PPS decals for my Getaway were a bit too small for the cab! - (Fortunately the side rails covered the gap) - So didn't trust them either.
 
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These Mr Pinballs decals are by far the best to work with in my opinion. (Not the best pics).

Fish Tales I used Pinballdecal.eu (my first redecal project), Getaway and Twilight Zone I used PPS official - for Totan I’m using Mr Pinball.

They seem thinner, but stronger. Bond really nicely and smooth out really well.

I wish I’d put the sides on first and then the front… it was very difficult to get the pillars to align at the front corners matching with the centre of the coin door. I’m about 3mm out of what I’d really like - but what can you do?

I’m pleased so far. Backbox next.
 
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Just had a quote back from Douglas Plating on Incalux plating they do (others on here have recommended them).

To plate side rails, lockdown, back box hinges, coin door (not frame - as you cant Incalux plate alumininum I discovered), Legs and bolts - £2,250 + VAT o_O. I don't think there will be many that would be prepared to pay that level of "Bling Tax" to play a TOTAN - so won't be doing that. Shame - as the sample looks very sexy indeed.
 
Ouch, that's pricey! I guess the amount of gold going on the larger pieces - like the side rails - makes a big difference.

I wonder if there would be any advantage in doing a group plating? Thinking we might save a bit on setup costs and the like...
 
Always put the front on first Mike and you will never get the edges to match the front
You are wasting your time trying to plate the side rails and lock bar as they are stainless you can do the coin door frame I have done it many times
 
I asked the question - The cost is directly related to the material - so the more volume - the higher the cost with no benefit for volume.
 
CHRIS B PINBALLS said:
Always put the front on first Mike and you will never get the edges to match the front
You are wasting your time trying to plate the side rails and lock bar as they are stainless you can do the coin door frame I have done it many times
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I will sleep better now - knowing that the front and side edges connecting is not possible - thanks Chris! I was really beating myself up last night.

I was just saying the Incalux process cant be done on aluminium. BTW I have had all parts stripped and chrome plated (did this on my TZ).
 
99.9% finished with the TOTAN rebuild.

Had to replace a couple of TIP's on the driver board that controlled the left diverter (I never knew it was even there - thanks @jagman )

Today, I tidied up the coin door, and refit the coin mech.

Also applied the restore version of the TOTAN apron decal. Its looking pretty fresh. Needs a final clean and the skill shot tweaking - then done. Will post a few pics when I finish those bits.
 
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Sorted a few bits and bobs, treated to 4 new balls and playing really nice... good to have it back together. Refit PIN2DMD in the next few days.

Some quick snaps to share:
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A few niggles to sort (apron decal), I have mirror blades to fit,may also fit my Scorbit and Feed Frenzy to control the Speaker LED's... but no rush on those bits - good to have everything working as it should - enjoying playing it again.
 
I noticed some broken plastics on the right flipper guide - so have new ones for left and right coming this week. After they are fit - sadly I will be putting it up for sale, as I have to make room for another machine. Will list in the For Sale section on here first.... if anyone is interested, or you know someone looking for one.
 
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