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My new RFM has a screen issue, help!

ianw

ianw

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10 Years
Joined
Jul 6, 2012
Messages
3,196
Location
Devon
Hi Guys

My new RFM finally delivered from Martin, set it up, then it has screen issues before I can play 1 game.

Picture occasionally comes on, but then a crackling noise from back of monitor then it just dies :(

Sound / playfield all work does this mean PC is ok, or is this controlled from the main board in base of unit.

Is it buggered, or is it a possible simple fault and how or who could fix it?

Any help would be much appreciated

Regards

Ian
 
Had a similar thing a while ago... It either sounds "damp" to me....or it's a build up of Carbon & dust on the back of the tube.... Mine was carbon...I could tell as when i was looking in there was a very blue trace/spark coming from the tip of the CRT...

So. First thing to do is SWITCH OFF. Leave off for 24 hours. DO NOT REMOVE anything from the rear of the tube, or touch the gun or the cathode, else you'll get a 24kv shock..... Read up about CRT safety on google.

Personally i Wiped the back of the tube with a baby wipe and then left for 1/2 day to dry fully.... and then has worked no problems ever since :)

REMEMBER TO BE VERY CAREFUL THO!!!
 
I think there's been a recent thread on the yahoo group page about screen issues on RFM it may help and point you in the right direction. If this is like a standard arcade monitor it may be arcing, be careful poking around as these hold large charges even after being switched off for a long time.
 
If it is "damp" does it just sort itself out over a period of time, it's currently inside the house.

The idea of wiping the back of the tube with a 'wet' baby wipe is a bit scary o_O So basically avoid the neck, circuit boards and the big red wire.
 
Yes..... I'll see if i can sort a pic out showing you which areas... You should see by looking in the back and see a load of dust on the "black/grey" areas of the tube. You may be able to get away with a brush and hoover instead of a wipe - you just want to remove the crud from the top of the monitor....
 
cathode-ray-tube-monitor.jpg

Basically the top of the "DAG Coating on CRT" bit, however around the top, MAKING SURE YOU AVOID THE HV CONNECTOR. I suspect this may be where it's sparking from - personally if you are concerned then just brush it off with a hand brush (the type that comes with a dustpan)... Keep your SPARE hand in your pocket tho and you should be fine :)

If it is just damp then keeping it in the house overnight should cure the problem :)
 
Thanks for the image, will try tomorrow, with the brush attached to a broom ;)
If not back online, you know what happened :eek:

nisby - seems the guy on yahoo group hasn't found a solution yet, but they did mention trying a user...gunblade, and I have messaged him on the jammaplus forum.

I wasn't expecting this RFM to be a project...... as already have a Space Invaders cab in garage requiring some work.
 
I gave the back of the screen a wipe with screen wipes, still same thing happens, it fires up for a few seconds, crackles and picture disappears.....
Anyone know someone in the South West that might be able to help?
 
How does around the neck look, particularly the neck board often these can get covered in thick black dust and cause arcing? If it looks bad I'd read up on earthing down the HV and if you're still not happy see if there is someone local to help. If cleaning it doesn't help it may be the neck board requries a repair in which case I believe gunblade is def, the man for the job.
 
I have a couple of cans of compressed air, will give that a go tomorrow on the neck area, thanks.
 
Neil fellender may be able to help you he's in the southwest top chap and loves to chat pins. He was down mine last week tinkering with my shadow
 
Ensure to let the neck area warm up again if using compressed air as the pressurised air being relieved cools and can also create some moisture due to that.
 
As has been said, it could be arcing from the HT connector on to the tube (you can just pull this off, it's like a press-stud, and clean it, having discharged it first). More likely it's the flyback transformer or the line transformer. Any TV engineer would be able to fix (dying breed now everything is LCD/Plasma) but you can change the transformer yourself if you're handy with a soldering iron. As has been said, the screen will hold charge for a good while but I wouldn't sit around for 24 hours - you can connect the blade of an insulated screwdriver to earth and poke the screwdriver blade under the rubber cap. That will discharge the tube immediately.

A fault in the neck-board is unlikely to give the symptoms you describe; it's definitely HV and almost certainly the flyback / line transformer.
 
I have given the neck a good blast with compressed air, and have had some such success, but probably doesnt survive beyond a couple of minutes. Will give the cap a good clean tomorrow and see what happens. I have tried to find a TV engineer within 25 miles with no luck!!!
 
I promised to her in doors, "no more projects', so this new RFM is bad timing. The games room currently is out of bounds due to the number of parts on trays on the floor.

Currently work in progress ..... (1) Shop the SST and add full set of cointaker LED's (2) Adding a few Mods to Spiderman, (3) MAME machine, almost running hyperspin, but with a monitor fault (no red) and finally why did I buy it last month (4) a Zaccaria The Invaders Cab with nothing working!!!

And almost forgot the Sega Driving game hidden in the back of the garage!

I must add ebay, jammaplus, etc to list of banned website on my router.
 
Daft question, are the neck pins pushed on properly? Don't be scared to have a root about in the back, just don't touch under the rubber cap
 
It's not a daft question, haven't gone too close, been a large stick away with attachments taped on. Will post a few pics tomorrow!
 
What amazing fun/funny this game is....... until 10 mins in.... screen goes dead.... Okay have cleaned the cap. This just doesnt make any sense why the screen just dies......
 
Is it always 10 mins? Exactly? Time it... May be a big clue.... Also, does it still make the Arcing noises? Can you see anything if you leave the back door off and look in the direction of the arcing??

Edit : Is it always 10 mins whether Warm or cold i.e. first thing in the morning/mid afternoon
 
Timed it today. 1st game lasted 2 mins 45 seconds, 2nd only 54 seconds, then 3rd only 42 seconds.
So it seems as it gets warmer the shorter the game. I cant see any arching, but you can most definitely hear it!
 
As it appears no-one can hear me I'll try a picture insteadflyback.jpg

You need a new one of these. The end.
 
Okay, hint taken this time!!
Where would I go looking for one of these?
 
:) That was a picture from eBay. If you simply search for "Flyback Transformer" you will get hundreds of hits. Of course, no manufacturer will make one where a thousand types will do so you'll need the part number off the one you have. Follow the thick HT cable back from the tube and it will go straight to the transformer.
 
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