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My £285 Getaway (HS2) update.

AndyB53

AndyB53

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Well Got new CPU from Phil Palmer and still no joy!
Discovered 5Volt rail down. Usual "Cooked" Molex on Power Board imput. Quick temporary fix "with soldered lead to board via choc block connector) and had a very dodgy (and ripply) 4.2 volts. Replaced all Caps, Bridge Recs and regulator and now a respectable 5 & 12 volts. New CPU boots but no Display or Audio. Replaced Caps in Both boards and Ram in display and all good. Changed DMD for Colour LCD and all not working.
Have ordered some replacement plastics, New Legs LED (Superbright) and Decal set. Now it works, time to strip it to repair and respray Cabinet before new decals.
One question.... Where is best place to get replacement Molex Connectors for 5 volt rail? Or is there an acceptable (non bodge) alternative?
 
Aka the " legend "
And the same chap who was trying to help you on your GI question ,but unfortunately you did not understand what he was explaining to you !
 
If you have replaced the caps for the 5v I bet my bottom dollar as Andy at pinball mania said you have pulled the track and probably done the same on the others these are extremely tight fit and the track is on the other side of the board I suspect you will now have to jumper those
 
AndyB53 said:
Or is there an acceptable (non bodge) alternative?
Click to expand...
The alternatives are IDC (wires push in probably what you have originally) or Molex (wires are crimped and held in a housing), Pinball mania does both, there are camps on here for both approaches, personally I prefer Molex. Whatever you decide the proper tools makes the job easier.
https://pinparts.co.uk/t/connectors
 
CHRIS B PINBALLS said:
If you have replaced the caps for the 5v I bet my bottom dollar as Andy at pinball mania said you have pulled the track and probably done the same on the others these are extremely tight fit and the track is on the other side of the board I suspect you will now have to jumper those
Click to expand...
I hope you did not "bet" as you would have lost! I carefully de-soldered all the Capacitorsand Bridge Rectifiers using an electric pump Vacuum de-soldering tool and the Solder pads on both sides and plate troughs were perfect I will replace the Molex connectors to keep it original but over the years they have proved to be useless in Williams Games especially if they were taking any current!
 
carl lawrence said:
Aka the " legend "
And the same chap who was trying to help you on your GI question ,but unfortunately you did not understand what he was explaining to you !
Click to expand...
I understood exactly what he was saying. I had never worked on a SS machine where ALL the GI was Processor controlled (aka early Bally and Williams) As soon as he explained and I took a look at the full schematic, all became clear. I will re-fit Molex and they are the original connectors
 
AndyB53 said:
I understood exactly what he was saying. I had never worked on a SS machine where ALL the GI was Processor controlled (aka early Bally and Williams) As soon as he explained and I took a look at the full schematic, all became clear. I will re-fit Molex and they are the original connectors
Click to expand...
That's the beauty owning these things you never stop learning new techniques in fault finding and repairing the bloody things !!
my favourite thing at the moment is new cursing words when I drop the darling screw when working on the little blighters 😘
 
astyy said:
The alternatives are IDC (wires push in probably what you have originally) or Molex (wires are crimped and held in a housing), Pinball mania does both, there are camps on here for both approaches, personally I prefer Molex. Whatever you decide the proper tools makes the job easier.
https://pinparts.co.uk/t/connectors
Click to expand...
I have refitted Molex as they are the originals. Cabinet not stripped filled sanded and flattened Sprayed black awaiting new decals.
 
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