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MAME Cab Build

JT.

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Jul 24, 2011
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North West UK
Yeah, I know this is not a MAME forum - but thought I'd post progress on this here anyway...



Plan is to build the cab from MDF, cover it in textured black formica and then either create myself, or have someone else create, custom graphics for the sides, control panel and marquee. The overall idea for the shape of the cab is not mine - it is heavily inspired by a cab on the BYOAC forums.



The PC running it is an old Athlon 3000+ (built around 2003ish for my brother in law, who has just replaced it with a nice shiny MAC and given me this old thing back). I had an old copy of vista, so that is being installed as the Op Sys.



The monitor is an old 24" Samsung LCD. I had to take it out of it's case to install it - which is proving to be a bit of a pain, as some of the buttons it needs to work are glued to the monitor's bezel, but I don't really want to destroy the case....



I will be using it for arcade games only - no pin simulation on this.



Not decided which MAME frontend to use yet - going to try MaLa for a bit and see how I get on with that.



A few pics of progress to date:



There were no plans or dimensions for the cab shape I wanted to copy, so I created a scale drawing on graph paper (haven't used that since school!) , guessing at dimensions, then scaled that up to draw the shape on a sheet of MDF. Then cut the sides of the cab to approximate shape with a jigsaw. For the back, front, top and bottom panels (i.e. the ones with straight edges) I used a circular saw. Below the rough cut pieces - this photo from around August last year.



DSC01258v1-1.jpg



Using a big straight piece of wood as a guide, the straight edged panels were cut with a circular saw...



DSC01257v1-1.jpg



Putting the two sides on top of one another, I then used a random orbital sander to get them symmetrical - this took forever - and now I know using a straight bit in the router would have been much quicker and more accurate too...oh well..



DSC01039v1-1.jpg



Once all the bits were cut and sanded to size, I joined them all together using 4cm*4cm battons as a sort of frame. I've screwed all these panels together from the outside for now, but I will need to dismantle it to put the formica on. Once it's covered the screw holes will be covered too, so I will have to screw and glue from the inside.



DSC01318v1-1.jpg



Same thing, different angle:



DSC01305v1-1.jpg



Next I had a few more panels to fit, and then had to cut the hole for the monitor. I used a plunge router to make the necessary hole, rebated it on the inside so the monitor could be correctly aligned, then built a small frame to hold it in place (you can just see this in the pic after the one below)

The monitor panel needed removing from it's case (the case was countoured, and would have been impossible to fit neatly in the cab).



PanelMain-1.jpg



With the monitor in place, I built a shelf for the PC. Pic below shows it sat on the shelf, but I will do something more permanent next - maybe mount the motherboard, power supply, disks, etc, directly to the shelf - not decided if that is worth the effort or not, as the case it is in has a nice collection of fans and dampened trays for disk drives etc - so I may just lay the case horizontally and fix it securely to the shelf - we'll see...



DSC01496v1-1.jpg



The PC I'm using is one I built around 2003 and gave away - well now it's been given back to me. It had an unlicenced XP version on it (oops!) and was whining at me that it wasnt genuine, so I installed an old licenced copy of Vista which I was no longer using. The vista performance score it gets is 3.8 - mainly due to the fact that it only has 1GB of RAM. Hopefully being a 2003 machine, I can get some second hand RAM off ebay cheaply though, and sort that problem out.

The below pic is the latest one (taken today) - a bare Visita install only so far, no MAME installed, just patching itself and sorting out antivirus etc.



DSC01498v1-1.jpg



Next up, I need to sort out a few finishing touches to the cab woodwork - cutting a few angles to tidy it up. Then I need to dismantle it, and cut the groove around all the edges for the t-moulding. Then the visible panel faces will get covered in formica (for appearance, and to protect the MDF a bit). At current rate of progress, those couple of jobs will probably take a couple of months....
 
Looks good so far
smile-1.png
I'd be tempted to stick with an XP build for this project if I were you (I used a stripped down XP install on mine so there's nothing to take horsepower away from MAME). Vista will take up more resource especially on an older PC. Keep it off the network and install everything from USB drive and you'll only get whats actually needed to make the system work. You can then shell Windows to boot straight into your FE (again this is easier to do in XP).



I would also recommend Hyperspin as a FE although with the age of your PC you might want to give it a test run first just in case you don't get the performance you want (you can turn off a lot of the flashy bells and whistles though).
 
If you search for "micro xp" there's a fair few torrent files about with a shrunken down and minimised version of XP - thats the best place to start (been there before)...



Paul
 
For your front end use Gamex (as it runs on a really old pc I have no problem.) if it can take it use MALA, I have this on another pc with better specs.

Just get a few off eBay and give them a try, that way you ensure you get any extra ROMS that might be missed in a different set.

I'm currently getting all my emus and roms portable, I've picked up a caanoo and a dingoo a380 between them I have every mame, neo geo, snes, nes, gameboy, gba, genesis, master system, game gear, amiga and atari st ROM and emu installed. Managed to get them all on 2 x 32gb sd cards. They both have tv out cables too and can pair with wireless joypads so I've got all the old greats on the move.

For my PCs I've just got an x arcade joystick as I want to play from the sofa, not stood at an arcade machine. Plus I have no room for an arcade cabinet.

Other than eBay, newsgroups and torrents are brilliant sources for ROMs and emulators.

Also noticed you are using a TFT monitor, make sure your MAME is able to configure scan lines otherwise it won't look that great.
 
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farm3.staticflickr.com_2908_14574714224_7c4fc6b2a3_o.jpg
It's actually purple, not blue, until my camera colour-balanced it​

I posted a photo of my (nearly finished) MAME cab in the New members forum and, because I was requested to, am now posting some advice from what I learned building it.

So first the free bit (if you can find an old PC)....

You do not need a big powerful PC to run MAME, almost anything will do. You do not need a super display monitor, most of the games I have are seriously low resolution anyway, so I suggest try sourcing an old computer for free. Friends, family, work colleagues, someone out there has got an old PC they've stopped using.

I had my son's first PC he'd given up on long ago, an old 32-bit Dell running Windows Vista, no graphics card, plus a nice cheap-but-beefy Logitec 2.1 sound system. Any cheap sound system will do, the audio on these old games is pretty lame, but strong bass gives it oomph. I can shake the floor playing Space Invaders. Oh yes!!

Get the software in place first and check it all works. I downloaded the latest MAME and learned to use MALA as a front end (it's a bit of a learning curve but you need a front end). MALA is free and great for many reasons, one is that you can configure it to close down the computer on exit, so when it's built into a cab just a press of a button gives a nice clean shut-down of the whole system.

The other thing I like about MALA is you can design your own theme, mine dedicates the cab to my school-teaching wife Belinda:

farm4.staticflickr.com_3876_14399420520_2fa7ea9e4b_o.jpg
TIP: Keep the missus on board.​


I tried loads of game ROMs, most either didn't work or were just a big disappointment. In the end I started with 8 of my favourites, Missile Command being the most important. Once I'd settled on all the software I scrubbed the hard drive clean, reinstalled Windows, and put on just MAME and MALA – no need for updates/virus-scanners/firewalls, it would never be connected to the internet again.

The not-so-free bit

So far, no cost. Is it all working? Then buy the buttons, joystick and USB interface. I got a single player kit from www.ultracabs.co.uk for £33.99 but their best value is probably their two-player USB kit for around £39. The buttons and joystick are really easy to mount onto MDF.

But I also wanted a tracker ball – essential for Missile command. Ultra Cabs do one for £17.49 - it's PS2 so I needed a USB-PS2 converter. It must be an active converter, I got a Startech USB2PSC adaptor converter for £9.99 on ebay.
farm6.staticflickr.com_5586_14563004646_8f3576ba61_o.jpg
TIP: must be an active converter​

When you plug all the controls into the PC it looks intimidating but it makes sense pretty quickly. Total cost for controls including tracker ball < £62

Now the cab:

I made the first of two prototype control panels. I propped this up on the fridge in my games room with the monitor behind, PC on the floor, and just played games, working out button positions, and best heights and angles for controls and monitor. Then I made a second prototype to check I'd got it right.

TIP: Get it all prototyped and working before designing the cab.

And my cab is simple: as small as I could make it to hold the PC sideways, with a shelf for the PC, a shelf for the sound system, and a shelf for the monitor:

farm3.staticflickr.com_2936_14606150063_c92fbbb342_o.jpg

I bought one and a half sheets MDF. 18mm for the main cab, 12mm for control panel and monitor bezel. It's mostly simple carpentry now, you need a jig-saw to cut the sides (assuming your design has curves). A friend cut the monitor bezel's screen-aperture with his router. I cut groves for the T-Molding chrome trim with an ordinary drill and one of these:

farm4.staticflickr.com_3846_14606149903_0f14593622_o.jpg
TIP: T-Molding is great (I got mine from arcadeworlduk on ebay £21 + £6 postage), it just hammers in with a soft mallet. But if you're using T-Molding then make sure you cut the grove deep and clean. I messed this up a bit: when it came to the final part of hammering it in it wouldn't sit tight into the groove in one or two places. Also, on any tight corners shave the inside tab off the T-Molding or it won't bend.

Finishing off: The yellow perspex for the marquee cost me around £9, can't remember where I got it. Vinyl lettering from http://www.vinyllettering.co.uk/ for £6.80 + £4 postage.

It's purple lettering (not blue) in real life. Came out well.
I used Plastikote Stone-effect Paint for the bezel - also came out well.
farm4.staticflickr.com_3855_14585328342_7c9cd7f239_o.jpg
TIP: I stripped the original bezel from the monitor so it would fit flat against the new bezel.
Google-ing the exact monitor model gave me the instructions for this.
In all the cab needed several cans of Plastikote spray paint at around £7.50 a can – I think I used 5. A low-volt (and low heat) lighting system from B&Q was (I think) £20.

In the end the cab probably cost me around £100 – didn't keep track of it. It's far from a pro job, all open at the back and everything just standing on shelves, but it's well good enough for my games room.

Final bits,

My 'On' switch is pathetic: a bolt through a hole presses the start button on the computer. IF this could be seen where the cab is in the room I'd buy a pinball flipper button to do the same job.
I have a USB extension lead permanently plugged into the PC. I can pull this out from the back of the cab for a memory stick or keyboard (the tracker ball works as a mouse). Means I can easily install new ROMs and try out different games. Keeps the cab interesting.

Sorry for the long post - it was a long, but rewarding, project.

John

 
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A nice build with some good tips.

Not into mame anymore personally, but its nice to see people build stuff.

Now, get building a pinball machine with that same gusto and i guarantee the rewarding feeling you got from building your mame cab would be x1000.
 
Now, get building a pinball machine with that same gusto...

I wish.

I even thought about it. But I know I'm not good enough: too much quality art needed, too many things I don't quite understand, too much I don't know anything about at all.

And far too expensive. £160? More like start with £1600 and add some for what would probably turn out to be embarrassing junk.

When I win the lottery I'll try:rolleyes:
 
Looks really good! Great sketch-up (?) model showing the build too.

I converted a Killer Instinct cabinet into MAME over 10yrs ago now, had a massive 21" CRT in the back! F'ing heavy it was. Flat screens are so useful in that respect! Sadly had to sell it when we moved to Warwick and massively downsized...

I'll stick a pic up here when I get home from Newcastle tomorrow.

Are you left handed? The joystick would be on the wrong side for me :)

EDIT: pics now added and i really want to replace my mame cab!

This was 2006...

1 - cabinet.JPG
12 - cab.JPG
book.JPG
 
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Looks really good! Great sketch-up (?) model showing the build too.

I converted a Killer Instinct cabinet into MAME over 12yrs ago now, had a massive 21" CRT in the back! F'ing heavy it was. Flat screens are so useful in that respect! Sadly had to sell it when we moved to Warwick and massively downsized...

I'll stick a pic up here when I get home from Newcastle tomorrow.

Are you left handed? The joystick would be on the wrong side for me ;)

Thank you. Design was in Wings3D - great free modelling program but hard work to learn. Download only if you're into 3D graphics and computer modelling.

Not left handed - and I know the joystick's usually on the left. Prefer it the other way round, so does my right handed son, dunno why.

John
 
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