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LEDOCD board repair service?

thewool

thewool

Site Supporter
1 10 Years
Joined
Aug 6, 2014
Messages
299
Location
Guisborough, North Yorkshire
Hi all,

some rogue wiring on my machine has fried some transistors in my LEDOCD board. Herg (the LEDOCD guy) mentioned the repairs are straightforward to do for someone with surface mounted soldering experience. These are the transistors installed by the factory, but nearly any MOSFETs with similar specs would work:

Columns, Q1-Q8, Vishay SI2319CDS-T1-GE3
Rows Q9-Q16, Infineon IRLML6344

Can anyone recommend somebody in the UK that can help?

Cheers, Kris
 
thewool said:
Hi all,

some rogue wiring on my machine has fried some transistors in my LEDOCD board. Herg (the LEDOCD guy) mentioned the repairs are straightforward to do for someone with surface mounted soldering experience. These are the transistors installed by the factory, but nearly any MOSFETs with similar specs would work:

Columns, Q1-Q8, Vishay SI2319CDS-T1-GE3
Rows Q9-Q16, Infineon IRLML6344

Can anyone recommend somebody in the UK that can help?

Cheers, Kris
Click to expand...

My mate at work did mine when i had exactly the same issue - the failure was entirely my stupid fault though.

He replaced a transistor for me once Herg & I had worked out which column/row had been zapped...

I have (also stupidly) knackered the USB port on 2 of them, which he's repaired.

You mention surface mounting? Not so sure about that, but i can ask. I think @stoptap has some surface mount experience too, and he bums LEDOCD's now.

I only have the rev 4's for B/W games, which are mostly through-hole. Only got 1 of the newer surface mount types in Metallica.
 
Thanks Paul!

If this was a rev 4 I would have a go but the mini looks like it needs more finesse.

Hopefully stoptap can help, it might have been a typo but what do you mean by he bums LEDOCDs? :eek:
 
These sound quite fragile...

I am hovering over pulling the trigger on both boards - LED and GI. How did you guys fry these and more importantly - is it "easy" to fry them accidentally by an idiot layperson such as myself?
 
Durzel said:
These sound quite fragile...

I am hovering over pulling the trigger on both boards - LED and GI. How did you guys fry these and more importantly - is it "easy" to fry them accidentally by an idiot layperson such as myself?
Click to expand...

My T2's wiring had been modified, the start button was coming off another connector which was fine until I installed this. The fuse blew but there must have been some damage along the way. I have one in another machine which has been fine since installation.
 
Ok thanks. I've got a lot of mods on my TZ, with the exception of one of them they were already fitted when I bought it. Keen to try out these boards but wary of insta-blowing them in some way because of unconventional wiring.
 
1. pushed the PCB back against the backbox metal plate as i hadn't put all 5 standoff in, shorting it. Now fixed via new transistor. Rev 4 board.
2. left an insert lamp socket dangling under the playfield and it shorted against something else. It saved the lamp matrix from damage. Now fixed via new transistor. Rev 4 board.

The rev4's (through hole) are no more fragile than the B/W boardset in the backbox.
The rev5's (surface mount) are no more fragile than the Stern SAM boardset in the backbox.
 
Well I've pulled the trigger on both boards now, based on yours and other recommendations, so thanks.

Dumb question but I assume they'll be no voltage issues given that I'm sourcing them in the States? Is there anything I need to be mindful of before installing etc? My TZ has an OEM clock currently, and I can't verify the lights on the mini-PF, at the very least the flasher under there is incandescent (all the others were), but not sure about the 3 bulbs that surround it and too scared to remove the mini-PF at the moment!
 
No voltage issues. Euro vendors just re-sell them, no changes. The GI OCD does have a way of changing the frequency, as you might get some hum using 50Hz - they were initially designed for 60Hz, but it's configurable in the GI OCD software now which you then upload back to the board.

Finding back-box space is the hardest thing. My LED board is Rev4, so bigger and 2 of them, so needs mounting in the top right corner. Make sure the underside of your board is insulated against any possible shorts. Rev 5 shod be much easier.

Do your mini-PF inserts behave like incandescents? slow on/off, not very bright vs. your LEDs? If so, it's because they are! There are 2 GI lamps in the lantern, and a wedge flasher. I recently took my mini-PF off, like i've done on previous genes, and it's really not difficult. Just unhook the connectors under the main PF (make sure you label them though) and push them through the hole, then undo it topside and out she slides/comes...

Strangely, I found a lot of the work much harder to grasp when it was my only game - because once it's out of action you have an expensive paper weight and nothing else to play when you get bored of maintenance jobs. All Pinball jobs take 5 times longer than they should. TZ is double that. The flasher under your mini-PF won't affect either OCD board. There's no OCD offering for LED flashers, which is shame because some of the LED flasher available are stupendously bright. I consistently use the ones i recommend to you in the other thread, unless there's a specific requirement, and they're my personal preference. Others are available - each to their on.
 
Well, here is a video of my pin when I was demoing the PDI glass..


You can see the mini-PF from about 0:12 onwards, briefly. Would you say that's LED or incandescent for the 3 bulbs around the eye?

The lamp over the mini-playfield is all LED - both the GI buibs and now the flasher.

The "eye" flasher bulb in the mini-PF is almost certainly an incandescent because it's a) dull and b) every other flasher on the pin was previously incandescent too, so I've got no reason to believe the previous owner made a special exception for that one.

And yes - you're right about TZ. TZ is the only pin I have at the moment, and it was out of action somewhat for the past week or so because I was trying to replace the outlane Cliffy that was starting to curl up. What I thought would only take me about an hour ended up taking a lot longer because I removed the ramp, and the slingshot, so I could use a hairdryer on the Cliffy to soften the glue, then isopropyl alcohol on it, before applying the new one. For good measure I waxed the whole thing again (since I had to rewax around the area I had cleaned with the alcohol). That's probably not what you meant in terms of TZ maintenance though :)

I've got an Ingo clock on the way, and now these OCD boards.. no idea when I would get around to installing them given that I like to take my time and am extra careful anyway. :oops: Someone like chris brim would have the whole lot done in the time it takes a boil a kettle probably. :)
 
Durzel said:
Would you say that's LED or incandescent for the 3 bulbs around the eye?
Click to expand...
I reckon they're LEDs. Only the 500,000/yellow/bottom had me doubting, but having watched it about 3 times now i'm 99% sure they're all Led.

You're going to love the LED OCD once it arrives. I find it very hard to watch those LEDs blinking like that now, especially through the Roman Glass.

Durzel said:
I've got an Ingo clock on the way, and now these OCD boards.. no idea when I would get around to installing them given that I like to take my time and am extra careful anyway. :oops: Someone like chris brim would have the whole lot done in the time it takes a boil a kettle probably.
Click to expand...

Spent 3 years doing an AFM restore (the absolute works). He would've have it done by lunchtime. Everyone has different priorities, amounts of spare time, approaches to risk, space to work, money available... plus practice makes perfect.
Enjoy the work - it's part of the fun. If you don't enjoy that then buy a 2006-2013ish Stern machine. Spiderman, Iron Man, Metallica - all been rock solid and very little to **** about and distract your self with, relatively speaking.
 
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Thanks. I can't conceive of a reason, especially how finicky it is to remove the mini-PF, that the previous owner would have left one of the inserts as incandescent whilst changing the others to LEDs. It doesn't seem like any expense was spared in getting it all up together.

I'm finding that I quite like tinkering.. it's all very novice stuff at the moment, but getting a bit more comfortable with unscrewing things at the very least, though I have blindly started unscrewing nuts before noticing that there was a nut underneath, that falls off and is then a nightmare to get back on again (for me anyway). Still wouldn't know one end of a coil from the other, and as for transistors, etc.. no chance :(
 
Durzel said:
I'm finding that I quite like tinkering.. it's all very novice stuff
Click to expand...
Same for me, and it all started with a TZ about 5yrs ago. Had TAF, a stunner too, but it’s boring and shallow compared to TZ. Everyone’s different.
One man’s Popeye, is another man’s Walking Dead, is another man’s Fathom, is another man’s Attack From Mars... etc.
 
thewool said:
Hi all,

some rogue wiring on my machine has fried some transistors in my LEDOCD board. Herg (the LEDOCD guy) mentioned the repairs are straightforward to do for someone with surface mounted soldering experience. These are the transistors installed by the factory, but nearly any MOSFETs with similar specs would work:

Columns, Q1-Q8, Vishay SI2319CDS-T1-GE3
Rows Q9-Q16, Infineon IRLML6344

Can anyone recommend somebody in the UK that can help?

Cheers, Kris
Click to expand...

Are you still looking for someone to sort this for you? Probably not the best person to solve the wiring issue, but as far as board repairs, the chap looking at my DMD is ex-Halliburton electronics engineer (as opposed to a pin head) and nothing seems to phase him. PM if you’re interested and I’ll see if he’s up for it.

Also worth asking @pinballmania
 
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