After some pointers to make sure I'm not going mad....
Calling
@Nedreud
@lukewells
And other Similar tecchies..
So - Picked up some Freebie LED lights, just needed to pick up a controller and remote...
So since i have two 5m lengths of RGB i picked up, dual controller (12v in, r/g/b out), and instead of being rated at 4A per colour, it;s only rated at 2A... not enough for two strings....
However thought i would crack it open and take a look anyhow...
So there are three 13N03LA (specs attached)power transistors, which as far as i can tell from the specs can drive up to 40A...
So - They are being driven by the rest of the cct which is just a trigger (on/off - takes next to no current and doesnt change dependant - so why couldnt i draw 6A from each?!!?!
The only reason i can see is because of the cabling... that can be easily rectified!!
In fact, looking at the bottom of the board, the 12v is permanently connected to the output, so it'll be a comparative voltage will probably control the lights... i.e.
12v 12v = no light,
12v 0v = full light
Almost like a switched neutral/negative type thing...
Any thoughts chaps before I shove lots of amps through it and see if it'll work
Paul
Calling
@Nedreud
@lukewells
And other Similar tecchies..
So - Picked up some Freebie LED lights, just needed to pick up a controller and remote...
So since i have two 5m lengths of RGB i picked up, dual controller (12v in, r/g/b out), and instead of being rated at 4A per colour, it;s only rated at 2A... not enough for two strings....
However thought i would crack it open and take a look anyhow...
So there are three 13N03LA (specs attached)power transistors, which as far as i can tell from the specs can drive up to 40A...
So - They are being driven by the rest of the cct which is just a trigger (on/off - takes next to no current and doesnt change dependant - so why couldnt i draw 6A from each?!!?!
The only reason i can see is because of the cabling... that can be easily rectified!!
In fact, looking at the bottom of the board, the 12v is permanently connected to the output, so it'll be a comparative voltage will probably control the lights... i.e.
12v 12v = no light,
12v 0v = full light
Almost like a switched neutral/negative type thing...
Any thoughts chaps before I shove lots of amps through it and see if it'll work
Paul