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J124 on WPC games - a warning

Sgt GrizZ

Sgt GrizZ

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Jul 21, 2011
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Ex PinballInfo Admin . MIA Brighton Hove beach
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Ive
Just a word of advice .... if you have the driver board out of a WPC game, for example on a Fish Tales to sort out the GI header pins, be very careful when you reinstall it not to accidentally plug connector J124 into J132. Keyed alike (nice idea Williams !) ....fits a treat except J132 will send high voltage into the flashlamp circuit and shortly afterwards the big cap at C11 will smoke furiously, blow its top and spray chemical nastiness everywhere.

Just had it happen :eek:

Doh !
At least the GI all works now :rolleyes:

30 days in the cooler for GrizZ :(
 
If you can make that mistake Sgt, someone else will. At least you can fix the problem pretty quickly, nice work. :)
 
Hey it happens sarge,I fitted a new coil wrong on sf2 ruined the MOSFET,coil and diode and filed room with smoke mrs needless to say was v v unhappy with the stink of burned coil for a day or so :( I got a full on ear bashing!!!
 
GrizZ said:
Been up and running for months. Just only now getting rnd to replacing the GI header pins. Half the backbox GI was out due to fried connector/pins.
Click to expand...

I feel your pain I had that on mine also re crimped one today I found badly crimped one today with half crimped and soldered pins
 
There's a similar possibility with late System 11 games, using the 'Aux Power/Driver' board. An AC input connector for this board is the same size and key as the G.I. input connector for the Backbox Interconnect board. If these manage to get swapped over, as happened on a Whirlwind after removing the back box, the G.I. circuits recieve the AC input power meant for the 25v and 50v bridge rectifiers, resulting in most, if not all of the lamps blowing. I then had to go out and replace them all, and straight after shopping it, too.
 
Calimori said:
If you can make that mistake Sgt, someone else will. At least you can fix the problem pretty quickly, nice work. :)
Click to expand...

Just for completion of the thread - I finally got rnd to fixing this last night. Replaced cap. Looked like it had already been replaced before at some point - slightly crap solder job. I lost the through hole plating removing the cap ...grrrr . So had to run a jumper from the neg leg of the cap to the neg lead of its associated bridge rectifier BR4.

All good now.

Taken from 'The Bible' for reference ....


WPC and WPC-S Driver Board Jumpers:
For reference, the driver board is positioned with the solder side showing, and
connector J104 at the "top". All jumpers added to the solder side of the driver board.
BR2 to C5: two jumpers. Jumper the positive lead of bridge BR2 to the positive
lead of C5. Repeat for the negative leads also.

BR1: ONE jumper. Jumper the AC lead of BR1 (just below the positive lead) to
connector J101 pin 7.

C6/C7: jumper the two positive leads of capacitors C6 and C7 together (this
also jumpers also helps BR1).

C6: Add another jumper from the positive lead of C6 to TP8 (Test Point 8, 18
volt DC). Note this jumper is not shown in the picture below.

BR3: three jumpers. Jumper the lower AC lead of BR3 (just below the positive
lead) to connector J104 pin 1. Jumper the other upper AC lead (to the left of
the positive lead) to connector J104 pin 2. Jumper the positive lead of BR3 to
the large solenoid fuse trace about 2" below the bridge (see picture below).

BR4: three jumpers: Jumper the negative lead of BR4 to the negative lead of
C11. Jumper the AC lead of BR4 (just above the negative lead) to connector
J102 pin 1. Jumper the other lower AC lead of BR4 (just below the positive
lead) to connector J104 pin 4.

BR5 to C30: two jumpers: Jumper the positive lead of BR5 to the positive lead
of C30. Repeat for the negative leads also.
 
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