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Indy 500 - A few things

JMP

JMP

Registered
10 Years
Joined
Aug 12, 2011
Messages
3,535
Location
Lancashire
OK, so in my attempt to fix my own problems (!) can anyone tip me in the right direction on a few things:

i) Old battery leakage onto a speaker housing. Once told this stuff eats away at the metal (?) Speaker still works, just wondering if should replace as a precaution in addition to the battery compartment (contacts are covered in it...).

ii) I have lower playfield and partial backbox GI out. Have replaced the connector for backbox GI but no joy, can't see any fuses out. The lower playfield bulbs out are the ones under the slingshots and drain lane plastics. Underneath, a thin yellow wire chaining together bulb holders, connecting to thick yellow wire. Presuming this feeds back to a backbox connector but don't know why not working. Two burnt out connectors I found have already been replaced, wires inserted with correct tool. PCB connector pin dry joint maybe?

iii) Right speaker not working. Left one (with battery leakage on it) works fine. Black and white wires lead from left to right speaker, all connections there. Wires traced back to PCB connectors and again can't see anything wrong....

iv) What are the cylindrical screw on metal things called that the playfield rests on when swung up, attached to the cabinet brackets at each side. One is missing and the playfield drops down on the right when moving it. Sure you can buy them but don't know what to search for !

Any advice appreciated before I have to trouble someone else with it. Cheers all.
 
Bloody Hell John, Sounds like you have a ****ter on your hands there.
Hope you didn't pay to much for it.
 
John, first thing to do is neutralise the battery acid corrosion on the battery holder and check the surrounding board for any signs it got on there. I hear that a paste of baking soda and water will neutralise the acid and help clean off the crap. Do the same on the speaker and hopefully it will be ok, just make sure you get all of it as any you miss with gradually eat away at whatever its on. I'd probably use fine wet'n'dry on the corroded areas after neutralising everything to make sure you got it all off.

If there is any on the board then the same principle of neutralise and clean applies but I'm not sure with what so be careful.....someone else who's done this before might be able to advise.

For the GI, break out the multimeter and check continuity on those GI strings, you might have a break somewhere. Also worth checking if the lamps in that string are getting voltage. I'm assuming yo have tried changing some bulbs just to make sure :p

For the right speaker, you can check with a multimeter to see if it's getting any juice. If it is then try swapping the left speaker onto the rights wring and see what happens....could be that the speaker has popped and needs replacing.

Dunno what those things the pf rests on are called.....ping The Legend, he'll know :D
 
If you think theres still a possibility of chemicals on something maybe some litmus paper will help decide.
 
Batteries are usually alkaline, so you want normal acid (just plain old vinegar, or mustard if you want a slightly pasty acid :)) to neutralise the leak.
Using baking soda (an alkeline) would be a bad idea.

Someone double check me on this, but I'm pretty sure its right. Right?
 
replicas said:
Bloody Hell John, Sounds like you have a ****ter on your hands there.
Hope you didn't pay to much for it.
Click to expand...

Hmmm, well not sure. Got more to sort than expected but seller apologetic and ready to see right on essential new parts, so a bit of investigation and elbow grease should get it to where it should be.
 
ronsplooter said:
John, first thing to do is neutralise the battery acid corrosion on the battery holder and check the surrounding board for any signs it got on there. I hear that a paste of baking soda and water will neutralise the acid and help clean off the crap. Do the same on the speaker and hopefully it will be ok, just make sure you get all of it as any you miss with gradually eat away at whatever its on. I'd probably use fine wet'n'dry on the corroded areas after neutralising everything to make sure you got it all off.

If there is any on the board then the same principle of neutralise and clean applies but I'm not sure with what so be careful.....someone else who's done this before might be able to advise.

For the GI, break out the multimeter and check continuity on those GI strings, you might have a break somewhere. Also worth checking if the lamps in that string are getting voltage. I'm assuming yo have tried changing some bulbs just to make sure :p

For the right speaker, you can check with a multimeter to see if it's getting any juice. If it is then try swapping the left speaker onto the rights wring and see what happens....could be that the speaker has popped and needs replacing.

Dunno what those things the pf rests on are called.....ping The Legend, he'll know :D
Click to expand...

Thanks for info. The battery compartment is on a small raised board above the PCB, which is a blessing and can't see any on the main PCB underneath. My initial thought is to sling the battery board and probably the speaker too if not expensive to buy. Thanks for the cleaning tips though, may give that a try if speaker expensive.

Yep done a load of bulb swapping to check the GI. I'm not so great with the multimeter..., there's a setting that gives an audible beep if there's a good connection between the two points yes? Sorry to sound the noob.

Will try the speaker thing too, may be removing the left one permanently anyway. Time to dig out the ol' soldering iron.... Hope to get some time on it Sunday so will report back if no success. Cheers.
 
JMP said:
Hmmm, well not sure. Got more to sort than expected but seller apologetic and ready to see right on essential new parts, so a bit of investigation and elbow grease should get it to where it should be.
Click to expand...

Thats good to hear. Lets hope its soon sorted.
I think I have a pair of backbox speakers knocking about somewhere. Will have a look.
 
replicas said:
Thats good to hear. Lets hope its soon sorted.
I think I have a pair of backbox speakers knocking about somewhere. Will have a look.
Click to expand...

Well if I need them, will be happy to buy off you Daz, thanks. Haven't seen them on PM & PH sites.
Thanks ronsplooter, aim to investigate later once I've shaken off this hangover..... :puke:
 
JMP said:
Will if I need them, will be happy to buy off you Daz, thanks. Haven't seen them on PM & PH sites.
Thanks ronsplooter, aim to investigate later once I've shaken off this hangover..... :puke:
Click to expand...

Sounds like you have only just got out of bed , you lazy git.
You should know by now that we cannot handle the beer as good as we once did. Plenty of cups of tea should do the trick.
 
Just to confirm that you need to use clear / white vinegar to neutralise the battery alkaline (everyone says acid coz it eats away at things like acid does) damage. It should be a 50% water, 50% vinegar mix.
 
replicas said:
Sounds like you have only just got out of bed , you lazy git.
You should know by now that we cannot handle the beer as good as we once did. Plenty of cups of tea should do the trick.
Click to expand...

You were right. One big session leads to a couple of rough days....

Thanks on the acid treatment which I'll do if not replacing. After poking around with the multimeter, I lose circuit after the little blue cylindrical thing leading to the right speaker. Trust that's duff then whatever it is? Can anyone tell me what to search for to get a replacement?

Regardng the backbox and lower playfield GI, the connector pins and connectors themselves give voltage on every pin. Just nothing at the other end.... A wire break on both counts? Tried to check if the wires are inserted in the right place on the connectors but the manual info may as well be in chinese to me. The daisy chained lower playfield GI is connected to a thicker yellow and yellow/white wires, which lead right back up to the backbox with no joining connectors. If that's broken somewhere, it looks a nightmare to track down or replace. :(
 
JMP said:
I lose circuit after the little blue cylindrical thing leading to the right speaker. Trust that's duff then whatever it is? Can anyone tell me what to search for to get a replacement?
Click to expand...

That'll be a capacitor.

JMP said:
Regardng the backbox and lower playfield GI, the connector pins and connectors themselves give voltage on every pin. Just nothing at the other end.... A wire break on both counts? Tried to check if the wires are inserted in the right place on the connectors but the manual info may as well be in chinese to me. The daisy chained lower playfield GI is connected to a thicker yellow and yellow/white wires, which lead right back up to the backbox with no joining connectors. If that's broken somewhere, it looks a nightmare to track down or replace. :(
Click to expand...

Easy to check using the continunity setting on the meter. Follow the wire from one bulb to the next then test both ends with the meter. Actually follow the wires from the connector ( s ) to the first & last bulbs first as any break is most likely to be in that area.
 
Moonraker said:
That'll be a capacitor.
Click to expand...

Cheers. Looks like this is the one:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5045-12914-00

Can anyone confirm which capacitor this is on the Best of Pinball site? Got to place an order with them for two new opto sensors (as just found the turbo optos A-16908 & A-16909 aren't working either !) and wanting to add it on. The reference doesn't come up with it on BOP site but there's loads of capacitors on there. The tech references don't compute with me.....

On better news, I've fixed the GI and learn't not to trust my eyes when it comes to blown fuses.... doh ! Used the multimeter as backup check and found one had gone after all, the one that got both GI chains working again of course.... Won't make that mistake again.

May get to play this machine one day..... Cheers all.
 
replicas said:
Well if nothing else John, you are getting there slowly.
Click to expand...

Yeah, suppose so. Although tried to desolder an LED receiver tonight (in an attempt to resolder into the turbo opto receiver board) and failed miserably... New opto boards for 9 Euros to save me the hassle I think.
 
Although tried to desolder an LED receiver tonight (in an attempt to resolder into the turbo opto receiver board) and failed miserably
Click to expand...

Comes with practice dude, don't worry you'll get it soon enough :D
 
To test the little speaker (which is a tweeter) just temporarily bypass the capacitor. Make sure you don't turn it up LOUD or you will blow the **** out of it (technical term). If it still doesn't work then it's the tweeter. If it does (remember don't turn it up LOUD) then you just need a capacitor. Available from farnell or maplin for about 50p.
Martin
 
Thanks Martin. I managed to cross-ref the capacitor details and ordered one of Ebay (probably overpaid but oh well). I'll try your test first before going to the job of soldering the new one. Cheers.
 
A few minor things left to sort and this machine is almost there ! Thanks for the help in here. :)
 
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