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HELP PLEASE - Node board 8 - Node 8 Spike 1

cmrl9

cmrl9

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Joined
Apr 16, 2020
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cmrl
Hi,

I have an issue with the node board 8 for my ghostbusters which is preventing one of the switches not to work. My understanding they are difficult to repair.

The part number is:

"520-6985-72"

From looking at pinball heaven I can see one for £189 which says:

Description​

Stern pinball SPIKE replacement NODE board 520-7017-72 which is a direct equivalent to 520-6985-72.

I just want to double check that Spike 2 node boards are downward compatible.

When look at Macro site I can see under compatible parts for ghostbuster what looks to be the same board.

Would like confirmation before I order next week, pinfunds depleted for the month. :)

Thanks
 
Is the board definitely borked? Could it just be a connection issue at the board or have you fully investigated the issue?
 
Take a photo, does it look the same?

I think they're compatible in this case. Make sure you set the DIP switches correctly.
 
kevlar said:
Is the board definitely borked? Could it just be a connection issue at the board or have you fully investigated the issue?
Click to expand...

Yes, done the following:

1) changed the switch (originally thought it was this, but didn't test, as was stripping the whole lot to clean and restore)
2) confirmed switch wiring correct against a working ghostbusters pro
3) did a continuity test between the switch and molex adaptor, works (beeps)
4) did a continuity test between the molex adaptor and plug on the board works (beeps)
5) did a continuity test between the plug on the board back to the switch and manually activated the switch, worked (beeps)

Points to problem with a transistor (think that is the right terminology) on the board

Unless there something else I have missed?

My understanding from a friend who tried, the way they are soldiered you need specialist equipment to repair, unlike the old style boards on Williams, white star.

At £180 probably cheaper to get a new one.
 
Fubar said:
Take a photo, does it look the same?

I think they're compatible in this case. Make sure you set the DIP switches correctly.
Click to expand...
Thanks, yes they seem to look the same, I will upload a picture from mine when I get home.

Thanks, the DIP switches I would def been caught out with.
 
cmrl9 said:
Yes, done the following:

1) changed the switch (originally thought it was this, but didn't test, as was stripping the whole lot to clean and restore)
2) confirmed switch wiring correct against a working ghostbusters pro
3) did a continuity test between the switch and molex adaptor, works (beeps)
4) did a continuity test between the molex adaptor and plug on the board works (beeps)
5) did a continuity test between the plug on the board back to the switch and manually activated the switch, worked (beeps)

Points to problem with a transistor (think that is the right terminology) on the board

Unless there something else I have missed?

My understanding from a friend who tried, the way they are soldiered you need specialist equipment to repair, unlike the old style boards on Williams, white star.

At £180 probably cheaper to get a new one.
Click to expand...
The only thing I can think of that you haven't mentioned is have you swapped the 2 node boards around ( node 8 & 9 ) changing the dips witches to suit their new position?
 
From the GB manual, node 8 & 9 are both 520-6985-72 so can be swapped over to prove boards, remembering to change the dipswitches to suit their position.

GB.jpg
 
Last edited:
kevlar said:
Out of interest, which switch isn't working?
Click to expand...
Switch error 43 under the left ramp exit, probably the least accessible switch in the game, you have to take the whole ramp off to get at it.
 
kevlar said:
Out of interest, which switch isn't working?
Click to expand...
Also the right outlane flasher when connected locks on, its permanently lit, it will flash. Relates to below on node board matrix, node 8 sub 8c

Right outlane.png


Might be related to each other.

The switch is difficult to tell it's faulty as it mostly doesn't affect the game, as it for if you don't hit one of the switches in a row on the ramp
 
That's left ramp exit, CN12 input 6 on node 8. On Node 9 that input is the ghost target so if you swap them over try the ghost target.
 
I had bother with a munsters le grandad switch not working so couldnt accass the bottom playfield.I was in the process of ordering anode board at 290 quid.On checking out the switch which i had of and on a few times but was ok With collywobble
s help we found 2 broken crimps on purple white and black ground to the molex .col changed these with the aid of n=magnification head gear .Jobs a goodun;Hope this helps and not confuse you Cheers billy
 
This is why I asked if he'd fully investigated, those little crimps are troublesome. I've had issues with flakey insert LEDs on Dp, Foo & GOTG as well as a dodgy flipper on DP all down to those crap tiny crimp connections.
 
I’ve had loads of problems with the crimps breaking in the housing. Had to replace the crimp and then alls good.
Sometimes it’s the input wire but if it’s the return wire it might affect more than 1 switch as some switches have common returns .
If the flasher is locked on then that’s likely to be a different problem - such as a transistor or other component.
 
Thanks, when doing the continuity test I'm placing the tester prong on the metal crimp inside the molex and it passes, with the other at the other end. I would say based on this the crimp is fine, but I will have another look
 
Not necessarily. If the crimp pin has snapped in the housing the bit attached to the wire will give you a signal but when fitted may not make contact with the header pin.
 
Garry Sp8 said:
Not necessarily. If the crimp pin has snapped in the housing the bit attached to the wire will give you a signal but when fitted may not make contact with the header pin.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I will definitely check, that's very helpful
 
I can solder you a new transistor in if you want. PM me if you need that done.
 
Thanks all for your help, ordered a new node board from @philpalmer fitted today, updated perfectly problem solved.

Might get the old one repaired but it's not far off the same price as a replacement
 
kevlar said:
This is why I asked if he'd fully investigated, those little crimps are troublesome. I've had issues with flakey insert LEDs on Dp, Foo & GOTG as well as a dodgy flipper on DP all down to those crap tiny crimp connections.
Click to expand...
And you where 100 right, issue came back, ordered the pins from pinball mania and worked out how to change, little tricky if you don't know how to use a crimping tool, only on the sense of the fear of the unknown own.
Pin snapped off in my hand had corroded right through. Snipped off, striped wire with wire cutters, fitted correct pin with crimping tool. Clicked back in zero problems.

Think the person who bought my faulty one probably got a fully working node board, oh well, it's pinball.

The other node board was 1000 💩 the cap gone on it.

Thanks for your help, to be honest I was scared of re-pining, so tried everything not to. Something that turns out I shouldn't have been with the correct good tools pretty easy, but fiddly there so small
 
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