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Hello from Cardiff (Wales, UK)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dicky
  • Start date Start date
D

Dicky

Hi there,

I'm the proud owner (1 week) of a Dr Who Bally machine (1992?) and am in the process of giving it an overhaul.
There has been lots of great tips and info on here that i've taken on board, and I'm a lighting engineer / electrician by trade, so am happy to do all the work myself. I've found the complete manual online with all the circuit diagrams and wiring details which is a great start.
One question I have for starters that I couldn't find using the search is, there is no coin mechansim in it, there is one slot for coins on the coin door, see photo
IMG_6212.JPG
and the back of the coin door has a support of some kind (see photo)
IMG_6214.JPG
.
Can anyone point me in the direction of the correct coin mechanism I'd need to put into here, so that it can take different coins, through a single slot?

Many thanks in anticipation - Dicky
 
Greetings from someone else in Wales,tho I am a Gog :clap:

Unless you are gonna put it on site,there is no need to have a coin mech in.
There is an adjustment in the settings to make the game freeplay.
That is listed in the manual.Basically its by going to the correct setting via the switches inside the coin door-there are four-two red two black
 
Hi Dicky.

I think you're looking at something like this?

As Poi says though theres no need unless you actually want to operate it on site or something - Just set it to free play :)
 
Thanks Gents, I am looking to have it operational so that people can put money in it, so I can re-coup some of the cost! I of course will only ever have it on free play :clap:
RGV, I did look at that site and it wasn't obvious which coin mech did what, apart from the ones that only took a single coin, so it's the C220 I need then?
Reading into this a bit more, I think i need to see what (if any) wiring there is that connected the original coin mech to the game, and whether I need an interface board - any suggestions?

cheers, DIcky
 
The C220 seems to be the "one size fits all coins" model, but I've no idea if it would be compatible to your machine. I've never used them myself so I'd check into it a bit more before actually purchasing one.

Drop Phil at Pinball Heaven a mail, he should be able to give you a much better steer.

Rog
 
I repaired the coin mech's on my '83 Bally, cos I thought it was kind of fun and authentic putting coins in rattling into the cash tin and basically just because I could and I wanted everything working.

The other thing I fixed was the coin lockout mechanism (for the same reason) but then I read it's recommended to disconnect this but I'm not sure why if it's working and not affecting anything? (This is a bit off topic as I don't believe your later Dr Who will have this)
 
Hi, Dicky,

Williams & Bally games using the WPC board-set (including Dr. Who) have an interface pcb for the coin door. It's on the left inside wall of the cabinet, next to the plumb-bob tilt. In a machine with an electronic coin acceptor, this circuit board requires an additional wire 'jumper' link, connector and an 8-way 'DIL' switch installed - 8 tiny switches in an oblong plastic case (usually orange). Machines built with old-fashioned 'S10' coin acceptors had these parts omitted, but the same pcb is used for all WPC games, and they can be added.

I think it's because you're new, but I can't see your pictures; factory fitment of an electronic acceptor was the C220 aka 'Sentinel', but there were/are converted games* around using MMS or 'Mars' coin acceptor/doors/hardware. These have an orange plastic reject button in a black surround, rather than the red coin entry of the kosher door. If the extra components are fitted on the interface, and there's a connector hanging about on the door, then an electronic validator programmed for u.k. coins should work.

* WPC Machines produced for some european countries were originally fitted with 'S10' coin doors, in either 2 or 3-chute form. Back then, I converted some of these brought into the u.k. to use electronic validators, using both Mars and C220 doors.
 
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Sorry for being away for so long, but i've got good news!
It's been hard to get the time to spend on this machine, but I've learnt a great deal in the process, and I now have a machine with a working C220 coin mech.
The advice from Jay Walker above was the key to it, as I had the interface board for the coin door, but there was no dip switch on it, or any connections for a wiring loom to go to a coin mech!
So using my electronic skills, I sourced the dip switch, and the connectors to solder onto the board, and after checking Jay's post, I found where I needed to put the link in the board too. (Without this link the coin mech works fine, but doesn't add credits to the machine!)
Coin door interface board

Coin door interface board

  • Media owner Dicky
  • Date added
With added 8 pin DIP switch and orange W2 link cable, also J4 connector added
This picture shows the wiring loom I made using pink and orange cables to go from the board to the coin mech.
C220 mounted in door

C220 mounted in door

  • Media owner Dicky
  • Date added
with home made 15pin connector cable loom
The pic shows the slam switch and connections to the lamp that goes behind the slot where you put your coins in, both had been removed by previous owners, also a new door lock.
Coin door slam switch

Coin door slam switch

  • Media owner Dicky
  • Date added
And 'money flashing lamp' connected, all with new wiring. Plus new door lock.
I've also fitted the cliffy protector for the miniplayfield, which make it look great, and along with a new set of balls, rubbers and a thorough cleanup, all with products from Pinball heaven, i'm really happy with it! Happy to share any info about this if anyone has any q's.
Mods - please feel free to move this into a more appropriate forum if you think it would be better suited there.
 
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