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GI Question

Spandangler

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10 Years
Joined
Jul 21, 2011
Messages
6,778
Location
Suffolk
Hi group

Excuse my ignorance here chaps and chapettes.
My taxi has no GI. I've had a few of the boards away for repair anyway so sent Andy N the interconnect board as well. He's emailed to say he can't find any fault with it.

So with the boards still away, I set about with my multimeter

Obviously I don't have the boards in yet but I've been trying to trace the fault doing continuity checks.

So J9 is the GI plug. I've stuck one end of the dmm in the connector end and then checked continuity all round on both wht/yel (j9-7) and wht/vio (j9-1) and I have continuity on all lamp sockets as far as I can tell, don't think I missed one but I'm assuming if there was a break anywhere there wouldn't be continuity anywhere either?

I did notice however a tiny strand of the exposed GI wire (the braid which is stapled round the pf which the GI solders too) was frayed and touching a t-nut. To the extent that I had continuity between the t-nut and the connector! Do you think this could be the problem? Or wouldn't it matter?

Thanks in advance

Gaz
 
Hi group

Excuse my ignorance here chaps and chapettes.
My taxi has no GI. I've had a few of the boards away for repair anyway so sent Andy N the interconnect board as well. He's emailed to say he can't find any fault with it.

So with the boards still away, I set about with my multimeter

Obviously I don't have the boards in yet but I've been trying to trace the fault doing continuity checks.

So J9 is the GI plug. I've stuck one end of the dmm in the connector end and then checked continuity all round on both wht/yel (j9-7) and wht/vio (j9-1) and I have continuity on all lamp sockets as far as I can tell, don't think I missed one but I'm assuming if there was a break anywhere there wouldn't be continuity anywhere either?

I did notice however a tiny strand of the exposed GI wire (the braid which is stapled round the pf which the GI solders too) was frayed and touching a t-nut. To the extent that I had continuity between the t-nut and the connector! Do you think this could be the problem? Or wouldn't it matter?

Thanks in advance

Gaz
You'll get continuity if the lamps are still installed. You could try a battery pack and put 6v dc on each loop.
Dave
 
Thanks Dave. I don't have one of those, they're all installed and I can't be fiddled to remove them. I should add that I had continuity on the braid at random points I tested, not purely the sockets.

Fingers crossed it was shorting on that t-nut!!!
Here's hoping.
Does that even sound feasible??
 
Thanks Dave. I don't have one of those, they're all installed and I can't be fiddled to remove them. I should add that I had continuity on the braid at random points I tested, not purely the sockets.

Fingers crossed it was shorting on that t-nut!!!
Here's hoping.
Does that even sound feasible??
If the t nut has continuity to earth, then the fuse will blow. Gi can be a pain, worked on too many problematic machines in the past. Check plug to first lamp socket only and remove that lamp in there. Test on the wire side of the connector if it's the idc type.
Dave
 
Thanks again Dave. I will try that. I was actually sticking the dmm into the connector from the other end so I'll do it wire side next time as well.
Cheers
Gaz
 
Check the gi relay boards. There are two. One for backbox and one for playfield. They are solenoids 10 and 11. You should here them clicking. They are small boards mounted somewhere under the pf and behind the door. The connectors frequently have cracked solder joints. Remove and reflow.
 
Check the gi relay boards. There are two. One for backbox and one for playfield. They are solenoids 10 and 11. You should here them clicking. They are small boards mounted somewhere under the pf and behind the door. The connectors frequently have cracked solder joints. Remove and reflow.


Oh what that one which wasn't even plugged in!!!!!!
All working now. Thanks Andy

Now just those Fing pops
 
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